Galvanizing Feedback / lessons learned - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old February 23rd, 2014, 04:52 PM
lordhelemt's Avatar
lordhelemt
Status: Offline
Paul
1995 D90 #2620 & NAS 110
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,113
Galvanizing Feedback / lessons learned

For those who asked this is what I learned from my first galvanization run.

I started with 80 individual items: new, used, rusty, painted, power coated, fully prepped, and older galvanized pieces. Basically anything steel that was on or going on my truck was dipped. The place I took my parts was able to chemically strip the pieces (for a fee) so other than a few random items, nothing was prepped by me.

This is what I learned.
Fully prepped/raw steel items yield the best result. When I repaired the door frames I cleaned all the steel with maroon scotchbrite pads on the grinder. These frames came our really nice. I’ve very happy with the results. I also had a few raw steel items that came out the same. Pieces look fantastic.

Re-dipping older galvanized pieces also came out very well. Particularly if they were clean (ie no adhesive/glues/etc).

New/used steel with paint or primer with seams came out well but would have been better had I sent them off for blasting first (I think???). The painted pieces needed to stay in the acid wash longer to strip the paint. There are some areas around seams where the acid collected and formed gritty paste after galvanizing. Not a big deal and they removed this paste and treated with cold galvanization afterwards. I don’t know if the buildup is from the paint and added time in the acid wash or if it would do this anywhere with seams.

Rusty items faired the worse. I brought in some really bad items and the acid etched all the rust away (created holes in some items) and the finish has dimples from all the material that was removed. In some places of heavy rust there was that paste that was found in the seams.

In doing this again I would probably remove the scaling rust before the acid wash and grind the surface flat to avoid the dimpling. Some items warped but I don’t think it’s going to be a big deal. I should be able to straighten most of it out with minimal effort.

I was surprise how cost effective galvanizing is. The place I went too charged by the lbs with a minimum order that I didn’t reach.

For the NOVA guys I used Commonwealth Galvanization in Ashland, VA. 100 miles south on 95. Ask for Steve Cavanah, he’s a first class gentleman. Thank you Uncle Doug for the referral!

Back to chasing threads and removing excess zinc…
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0134.jpg
Views:	234
Size:	82.6 KB
ID:	90207   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0135.jpg
Views:	231
Size:	104.7 KB
ID:	90208  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0136.jpg
Views:	234
Size:	95.0 KB
ID:	90209  
__________________
RIP 1994 D90 #999 (engine fire 2002). We'll miss you.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old February 23rd, 2014, 09:31 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Paul can you share pictures of the worst of this paste issue you describe? Your results sound pretty consistent with my first galvy experience but i would like to make sure I'll be as happy with commonwealths stripping. The place I used did the stripping in galvy and so far all the stuff that didn't look good turned out to be extra clumps if zinc they skim off the top as they pull the parts, and not a lack of stripping completely.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old February 23rd, 2014, 10:24 PM
chris snell's Avatar
chris snell
Status: Offline
Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,439
Damn, that's awesome. Nice job.
__________________
1987 Ex-MOD 110 Tithonus LHD
2013 LR4


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old February 23rd, 2014, 10:30 PM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Online
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,833
Registry
My experience has been that the acid will eat any and all rust. If metal is rusted enough to be pitted sanding the surface smooth before the acid bath doesn't eliminate rust pitting you describe. The only way to get away from the pitting is buy new metal.
Sounds like you had a good experience as well. I told Steve I would spread the word since they are a small operation who are intentionally specializing in small jobs like what we bring them. There is a large corporately owned galvanizing company a mile away that treats small 1 time customers like us like step children.
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old February 24th, 2014, 07:19 AM
Abu Buckwheat
Status: Offline
Malcolm
2005 Defender 110 TD5 Station
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Mideast-Africa-Albany
Posts: 162
JEEZ ... I THOUGHT I loved my Defenders clearly I just lust after them... I am shamed now. That is all. ;-)
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old February 24th, 2014, 07:48 AM
rijosho's Avatar
rijosho
Status: Offline
Joshua
1995 Black ST - Rhinolined edition
Research Assistant/Eagle Eyes
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 16,557
Registry
I don't think I saw in your other thread, but did you remove the bulkhead vent mesh before you galvanized? If not, that may be another lesson soon to come!
__________________
Quote:
I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old February 24th, 2014, 08:33 AM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,501
Registry
Paul your experience is typical. Not saying anything against these guys but they don't have a lot of Harvard grads applying to work the cauldrons of molten zinc if you know what I mean.
They're used to dipping power poles, bridge parts, etc and not car parts. You have to expect the good along with the bad.
For the globs of zinc, just melt them off with a MAPP torch. Use a air blow gun to clear out threads and stuff, and be sure to wear eye protection whenever you are air blasting molten zinc. Do not grind or sand or file away at the zinc, you'll end up going too deep and exposing steel.
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old February 24th, 2014, 10:14 AM
ezzzzzzz
Status: Offline
Mark Garrenton
Too many here or gone to list here
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Portsmouth Virginia
Posts: 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Paul your experience is typical. Not saying anything against these guys but they don't have a lot of Harvard grads applying to work the cauldrons of molten zinc if you know what I mean.
They're used to dipping power poles, bridge parts, etc and not car parts. You have to expect the good along with the bad.
For the globs of zinc, just melt them off with a MAPP torch. Use a air blow gun to clear out threads and stuff, and be sure to wear eye protection whenever you are air blasting molten zinc. Do not grind or sand or file away at the zinc, you'll end up going too deep and exposing steel.
My old IIA chassis and bulkhead were dipped and sat in my yard for a couple of years before I assembled the truck. Twelve years later both were a good as new (sans cracks in the chassis from offroading). Heavy deposits in nooks and crannies is of no harm. when running taps and dies you'll expose steel no matter. This also happens when you clear out the bushing holes in Series chassis'. As zinc oxidizes it will 'weep' over exposed steel to reduce rust. The orange will still be there but it won't rot like typical exposed steel. A good zinc or copper based anti-seize is recommended for future service. I'm following Doug's lead and looking to get my CDN M101 galvanized after sandblasting it clean and then a good camo paint job.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old February 24th, 2014, 11:33 AM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Online
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,833
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezzzzzzz View Post
My old IIA chassis and bulkhead were dipped and sat in my yard for a couple of years before I assembled the truck. Twelve years later both were a good as new (sans cracks in the chassis from offroading). Heavy deposits in nooks and crannies is of no harm. when running taps and dies you'll expose steel no matter. This also happens when you clear out the bushing holes in Series chassis'. As zinc oxidizes it will 'weep' over exposed steel to reduce rust. The orange will still be there but it won't rot like typical exposed steel. A good zinc or copper based anti-seize is recommended for future service. I'm following Doug's lead and looking to get my CDN M101 galvanized after sandblasting it clean and then a good camo paint job.
Not sure how anyone could consider excess zinc a bad thing....

I say leave is bare galv Mark why have yours look like everyone elses m101 ?
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old February 24th, 2014, 04:30 PM
TDI Guy's Avatar
TDI Guy
Status: Offline
Randy
2015 LR4
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 4,573
Registry
I have also noticed that the thinner the steal the better the galv looks. Like the inner wheel wells. They always come out great and look like chrome at first.
I have done some really thick steal parts and they come out good but dull
__________________
Legend in My Own Mind.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old February 24th, 2014, 04:49 PM
lordhelemt's Avatar
lordhelemt
Status: Offline
Paul
1995 D90 #2620 & NAS 110
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Paul can you share pictures of the worst of this paste issue you describe? Your results sound pretty consistent with my first galvy experience but i would like to make sure I'll be as happy with commonwealths stripping. The place I used did the stripping in galvy and so far all the stuff that didn't look good turned out to be extra clumps if zinc they skim off the top as they pull the parts, and not a lack of stripping completely.
I'm traveling most of the week but I'll take some pics when I get back.

Also, I want to be clear that I am extremely satisfied in the job they did. When I do the 110 I will most definitely use them again.

------ Follow up post added February 24th, 2014 04:50 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
I don't think I saw in your other thread, but did you remove the bulkhead vent mesh before you galvanized? If not, that may be another lesson soon to come!
I didn't remove the mesh. Will try heating it up and hitting with compressed air this weekend
__________________
RIP 1994 D90 #999 (engine fire 2002). We'll miss you.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old February 24th, 2014, 04:54 PM
leastonce's Avatar
leastonce
Status: Offline
Jason England
D-90 White 95 SW #65
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 6,078
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
I'm traveling most of the week but I'll take some pics when I get back.

Also, I want to be clear that I am extremely satisfied in the job they did. When I do the 110 I will most definitely use them again.

------ Follow up post added February 24th, 2014 04:50 PM ------



I didn't remove the mesh. Will try heating it up and hitting with compressed air this weekend
Josh can come and individually drill out the holes in the mesh like he did on JimC's truck
__________________
Quote:
Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
Car Camping Collective founding member and Chief Executive Officer
Cat Camping Collective founding member and Chief Executive Officer
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old February 26th, 2014, 06:45 AM
Wolf Fabrication's Avatar
Wolf Fabrication
Status: Offline
Sterling Archer
'08 D3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oahu, HI
Posts: 7,453
Registry
Here's what my zinc plated bulkhead looks like...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1981769063.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	236.1 KB
ID:	90366   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2329214582.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	199.0 KB
ID:	90367  

__________________
"The most unreliable car in the world is the most reliable car in the world." -Jeremy Clarkson refering to the Range Rover


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Semper Fi!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old February 26th, 2014, 09:45 AM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Online
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,833
Registry
NAS air filter bracket and wiring harness hole in the footwell, you going v8 this time ?
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old February 26th, 2014, 12:09 PM
TDI Guy's Avatar
TDI Guy
Status: Offline
Randy
2015 LR4
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 4,573
Registry
And all seam sealed and ready for paint.
__________________
Legend in My Own Mind.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
ac, galvanizing

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Lessons learned (the hard way) tomaco1 Defender Technical Discussions 4 June 22nd, 2011 07:36 AM
Galvanizing the bulkhead? crobinson Defender Technical Discussions 2 December 30th, 2005 01:34 PM
Vendor feedback - CA: Rover Accessories paulb Misc. Chit-Chat 7 February 24th, 2005 02:41 PM
Owner feedback for Raingler products wanted 007 The Vendors Loft 25 August 6th, 2004 03:35 PM
galvanizing questions kit Defender Technical Discussions 4 October 21st, 2003 10:31 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:58 PM.


Copyright