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  #1  
Old July 26th, 2009, 05:22 PM
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Andrew Dance
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Galvanized Axles

Is it possible to galvanize the axles? I know the casings are pretty thick and unlikely to rust through but all the brackets for the springs etc are vulnerable and would be nice to galvanize.

You would have to make blanking plates for the ends and the diff housing to stop zinc getting inside. These would have to seal well without a gasket because the gasket would probably just burn up at the high temps anyway.

Has anyone done this?
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  #2  
Old July 26th, 2009, 05:29 PM
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You can't galvanize a closed tube, it would just float on the zinc. Just keep them painted or use waxoyl.
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Old July 26th, 2009, 08:34 PM
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I would leave it as an open tube though as there is extra space inside for the shafts. I saw someone do it in the UK, but I am not sure how it turned out. The diff covers are thin and do rust out. Give it a shot and if you screw it up, I have a couple axles in Niagara Falls you can have.
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Old July 26th, 2009, 08:59 PM
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If you do it you will have to retap the stub axle bolt holes, the spring seat nuts and ream or polish the centering ball joint seat. Then you will need to replace the third studs somehow with the zinc buildup in the holes and sand the axle ends and third seat lat again. I've heard of using high temp RTV in the holes as it's melting point is above that of zinc.
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  #5  
Old July 26th, 2009, 09:00 PM
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Stick bolts in the holes to make your life easier, but drilling and tapping out zinc is easy, likewise running a die down the axle studs should not be hard. I would buy a tap for the drain plug ahead of time as that will be a tough one to fine.
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  #6  
Old July 27th, 2009, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
If you do it you will have to retap the stub axle bolt holes, the spring seat nuts and ream or polish the centering ball joint seat. Then you will need to replace the third studs somehow with the zinc buildup in the holes and sand the axle ends and third seat lat again. I've heard of using high temp RTV in the holes as it's melting point is above that of zinc.
That's why I really wanted to cap the ends (actually, all open holes) to avoid zinc-ing the bearing surfaces and screw holes. I had not thought about the floating problem. I'm going to call the glavanizer today and see if it could be forced under the surface. I have a feeling it would be like trying to hold a football under water, it will just try to squirm out unless held very firmly. Maybe it could be allowed to float on the surface and just rotated to cover all the outside surfaces.

Thanks for all the advice.
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Old July 27th, 2009, 09:33 AM
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I think the reason they want holes in it is to prevent the gas inside for expanding and exploding.
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  #8  
Old July 27th, 2009, 09:34 AM
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There was one in LRO a few months ago with galvanised axles - a 90 with a silver body, LPG v8 and autobox I recall?
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  #9  
Old July 27th, 2009, 09:38 AM
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It could be done, but you would have to be an absolute glutton for punishment. It is easier to have them powder coated.
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  #10  
Old July 27th, 2009, 11:20 AM
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quite common to see them galvanised over here rusty diff pans.! i looked into it when i had my chassis dipped but was told the shot blasting process could perforate the pan.!
I noticed a few sets for sale at billing recently, also seen a number that have been zinc passivated looks nice gold.!

as said the problem is mainly with retapping the holes but a bolt or plug in the hole solves that however the axle must be very clean to get a good finish, meaning it has to be thouroly de greased or risk the galve flaking on the inner surface.. not good.!
Also trying to galve a sealed tube is very dangerous.. big bang.! i work in a steel works with a galve plant there have been some big "flyers" due to superheated air/steam in unvented tubes.

if you do want galved axles buy new axle tubes and galvanise them.

regards all

gren
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  #11  
Old July 27th, 2009, 04:42 PM
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I am doing mine in about a week and can document it. First welding on a sewercap from rovertracks for the front and the rear I have a Salisbury cover from Dave Lucas I already galvanized. Rtv does work but give it plenty of cure time and you will still likely need a tap to clear things properly.
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  #12  
Old July 27th, 2009, 09:56 PM
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Since I was doing one sals (and removing the diff from a sals is a PITA), I just closed up the axle ends, left the 3rd member/diff cover in place, and had the axles blasted and then coated with a zinc-rich epoxy primer. Its incredible stuff, hard to even sand it off, and supposed to be as good as galvanizing except for the fact that galv is a dip, so it gets inside hollow parts.
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  #13  
Old July 27th, 2009, 10:02 PM
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Next batch I will send some cases to be dipped. I have several spare floating around the basement.
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  #14  
Old July 28th, 2009, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajh
I am doing mine in about a week and can document it.

That would be great, please let us know how it goes.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Since I was doing one sals (and removing the diff from a sals is a PITA), I just closed up the axle ends, left the 3rd member/diff cover in place, and had the axles blasted and then coated with a zinc-rich epoxy primer. Its incredible stuff, hard to even sand it off, and supposed to be as good as galvanizing except for the fact that galv is a dip, so it gets inside hollow parts.
I think this might be the way to go for now. How did you seal off the axle ends? Did you take it apart later to make sure no blast media got inside?
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Old July 28th, 2009, 06:55 PM
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OK, might be more than a week since Keith is off at the National Rally until the 3rd so I will not have the cap until probably a week later but so far all is good. Well except I picked up the housing today and noticed the D1 is the wide arms and mine are the narrow so I figure just tack in a couple washers to narrow things down a bit before the dip.

Zinc getting into the bolt threads is not a huge deal as you can remove it with a propane torch and a wire brush easily enough, just do it outside and stick to propane and avoid heating it too much (you will see it go gold if you get it too hot) since that will cause a toxic off-gassing... this is why you want to do it outside. The galvanizer who did my WOLF rims was run by idiots and they left huge drips on the rims it took me days to clean up this way but now they look good and are just waiting for me to get enough time to go get the snow tires mounted on them.
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  #16  
Old July 29th, 2009, 12:56 AM
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"Zinc getting into the bolt threads is not a huge deal as you can remove it with a propane torch and a wire brush easily enough"

This is hard. Purchase a proper tap.
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  #17  
Old July 29th, 2009, 11:21 AM
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You mis-read, bolt thread... on the stud, for the threaded holes put a bolt into it beforehand and that is the best option really, I used RTV last time and it was not as effective as I would have liked.
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  #18  
Old July 29th, 2009, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajh
You mis-read, bolt thread... on the stud, for the threaded holes put a bolt into it beforehand and that is the best option really, I used RTV last time and it was not as effective as I would have liked.
Actually I mistyped and should have said die. I tried the propane to get the zinc off the threads of my tire carrier and ended up having to purchase a proper die.
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Old July 29th, 2009, 11:30 AM
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Ah, I will likely run a die down them before fitting anyway. A thread-cleaner may be enough if I can find a decent set (like a die but less sharp so less likely to re-cut a new set of threads) if the excess zinc is removed first... will see.
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Old July 29th, 2009, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAX711
I think this might be the way to go for now. How did you seal off the axle ends? Did you take it apart later to make sure no blast media got inside?
For the rear, a cut-off coke cans and lots of duct tape over the stub axles, on the fronts, I stuffed the swivel balls (they were bad anyway), covered with a plastic bag and repeated the "lots of duct tape" treatment. Worked great. EZ to inspect to ensure no media is inside.
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