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  #21  
Old September 5th, 2009, 11:21 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajh
I am doing mine in about a week and can document it. First welding on a sewercap from rovertracks for the front and the rear I have a Salisbury cover from Dave Lucas I already galvanized. Rtv does work but give it plenty of cure time and you will still likely need a tap to clear things properly.
Andrew did you ever document how this went? I plan on galvanizing a rear axle as well and would like to hear how it went.

So on this topic, what should you *NOT* galvanize if you were on a mission to galvanize anything and everything you could? I know threads are an issue but sounds like they can be resolved with a tap/die, or heat and a wire brush for say trailing arm threads which are large. Machined surfaces would need polishing. Would galvanizing the springs be stupid? No idea how the galvy would hold up to the steel flexing (or if it would ruin the springs "spring" properties for lack of a better word).

thanks,
charles
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  #22  
Old September 5th, 2009, 11:40 PM
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Andrew Dance
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Not quite the answer you were looking for, but I ended up sand blasting and powder coating mine, couldn't find anyone that would hot dip them. I made some end caps out of mild steel to stop abrasive material getting in the axles. I know it's not as good as galvanizing, but it looks "stock" and will last pretty well.

As far as springs, zinc is much softer than spring steel so it should move and flex with the spring without peeling or cracking, but that's just a guess. I know spring steel can loose it's "spring" at high temps, but I'm pretty sure it's higher than the melting point of zinc.
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  #23  
Old September 6th, 2009, 09:04 AM
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I tried the propane method on my tire carrier and it did not go that well. I was at it for hours and still hadn't got it all off. Not to mention the multiple tiny burns from flying molten zinc. I just don't see the point in going to any such trouble on stuff that just doesn't have a real corrosion problem in this area. But, I am planning to do a galvy run sometime maybe this fall or winter so the extra weight will help keep costs down. So get to work on that chassis!



Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Andrew did you ever document how this went? I plan on galvanizing a rear axle as well and would like to hear how it went.

So on this topic, what should you *NOT* galvanize if you were on a mission to galvanize anything and everything you could? I know threads are an issue but sounds like they can be resolved with a tap/die, or heat and a wire brush for say trailing arm threads which are large. Machined surfaces would need polishing. Would galvanizing the springs be stupid? No idea how the galvy would hold up to the steel flexing (or if it would ruin the springs "spring" properties for lack of a better word).

thanks,
charles
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  #24  
Old September 7th, 2009, 08:08 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Yeah I think I'm going to try accelerate the trailer build (at least the frame part) so we should definitely get together for the galvy run.

On Saturday I powerwashed the axle and commited to taking the minivan's spot in the garage until I get the frame built and on wheels. I also setup a jig out of some scrap metal I had to allow me to keep the rear cross member lined up when I stretch the rear 14"

http://lhsw.com/gallery/rover_trailer_frame_stretch

I'm going to try make time to stretch it over the next week.

charles
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  #25  
Old September 14th, 2009, 11:33 PM
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Andrew J. Hutton
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I actually got a bit distracted and the housing is off now having a spacer ring and pipe cap welded in place and pressing out the 3rd member studs to make it easier to dip since I will just need to put bolts into the swivel mount holes. Hopefully taking it to the galvanizer next week.
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  #26  
Old September 15th, 2009, 12:28 AM
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pressing them out? they just knock out with a few light taps of a hammer. hardly need a press. you going to dip it with bolts in the swivel ball mounting holes? good luck getting them out when it's done...

charles, looking good, does that really line up with th 109 bed? it looks like there is so much rear overhang. probably just an optical delusion...


Quote:
Originally Posted by ajh
I actually got a bit distracted and the housing is off now having a spacer ring and pipe cap welded in place and pressing out the 3rd member studs to make it easier to dip since I will just need to put bolts into the swivel mount holes. Hopefully taking it to the galvanizer next week.
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  #27  
Old September 15th, 2009, 12:29 AM
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Andrew J. Hutton
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You heat the bolts with a torch and they turn right out.
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  #28  
Old September 15th, 2009, 12:34 AM
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OK. What about the mating surface of the flange? Have you tried any of this yet?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ajh
You heat the bolts with a torch and they turn right out.
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  #29  
Old September 15th, 2009, 01:01 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching
charles, looking good, does that really line up with th 109 bed? it looks like there is so much rear overhang. probably just an optical delusion...
It does look like a lot doesn't it, but that's the measurement to the center of the wheel arch.

I need to make tub mounts/seats as the only existing ones that work are those rear two right at the rear. Once I get those on, I'll try test fitting the tub and we'll see. It will also help to get the axle underneath to verify it all.

Andrew, looking forward to hearing how the galvanizing goes.

charles
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