Galvanised chassis winter protection? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 14th, 2014, 02:01 PM
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Galvanised chassis winter protection?

What is the best way to protect a galvanised chassis. I will be driving it during the winter (lots of salt).

I love the look of the galvanised chassis so I dont want to paint it.

Clear Waxoyl perhaps?
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  #2  
Old June 14th, 2014, 03:34 PM
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The best way is to not drive it in the winter

After that, I'd treat it with WD40 or waxoyl or something and clean it throughly as soon as possible after contact with salt.
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Old June 14th, 2014, 04:09 PM
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I'd just blast it with WD40 a few times a year...BUT, honestly galvy is pretty tough - you probably could just leave it bare and I think it'll stand up to the elements (and even the salt). Based on my experience with the Series over the years in New England the galvy on it never had any issues (wish the same could be said about the rest of the truck...).
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  #4  
Old June 14th, 2014, 05:33 PM
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Fluid Film seems to be pretty effective. Might be worth a try for the non galvy components underneath applied once a year.
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Old June 14th, 2014, 06:11 PM
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I'd think H2O pressure wash would be best as Charles suggested. Low speed WD40 spray will coat but will not blast away any corrosive debris. That said your decision to galv instead of coat is far superior.
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Old June 14th, 2014, 06:50 PM
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My chassis is showing signs of rust. Not sure if you ever saw it when you owned the truck, Fred. Nothing bad, but it is flaking in a few spots.
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Old June 14th, 2014, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
My chassis is showing signs of rust. Not sure if you ever saw it when you owned the truck, Fred. Nothing bad, but it is flaking in a few spots.

I did see some rust staring in the rear next to the gas tank. Thats what im trying to prevent. I do believe galvanised chassis still need some kind of maintenance/protection. Better to clean and coat it now before it expands.

------ Follow up post added June 14th, 2014 07:31 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by AmityD90 View Post
Fluid Film seems to be pretty effective. Might be worth a try for the non galvy components underneath applied once a year.
Gary, Never heard of Fluid Film. http://www.fluid-film.com/applications/automotive/

It does not work for Galvanised metal?
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Old June 14th, 2014, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartan View Post
I did see some rust staring in the rear next to the gas tank. Thats what im trying to prevent. I do believe galvanised chassis still need some kind of maintenance/protection. Better to clean and coat it now before it expands.
when I replaced the bumper I also found some flakes in the frame behind the bumper in the actual frame rail. I might be wrong about this, but my understanding is that rust on galvanised metal doesn't spread very quickly. My plan is to just hose it off after driving in the snow.
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  #9  
Old June 14th, 2014, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartan View Post

I did see some rust staring in the rear next to the gas tank. Thats what im trying to prevent. I do believe galvanised chassis still need some kind of maintenance/protection. Better to clean and coat it now before it expands.

------ Follow up post added June 14th, 2014 07:31 PM ------

Gary, Never heard of Fluid Film. http://www.fluid-film.com/applications/automotive/

It does not work for Galvanised metal?
Its lighter than waxoyl and can be removed much easier. From what I've read it is much more environmentally friendly than using wd40 or other oils. I use it as a protectant on places where I don't want a messy buildup. Not sure but I would guess it would not harm galvanized parts.

People use it on farm equipment and tools like chainsaws and shovels to keep them lubricated and protecting from rust at he same time. I've seen some YouTube videos of independent tests of the product and the results have looked pretty good.

I've been using it on my defender even though its fully waxoyled underneath in my engine compartment and bare metals where you don't want waxoyl to be. My lug nuts and steel wheels are coated with fluid film as they tend to rust without some kind of protectant. I use it more on my 100 series cruiser since it is not waxoyled. I spray it everywhere underneath other than hi temp areas and it works pretty well. I buy a six cans a year and at is more than enough for the hundy and defender. A lot of the yota guys I wheeled with swear by it. Most of them have newer trucks than our defenders that have better rust prevention from the factory so they don't feel the need for heavy duty stuff like waxoyl.

There is another product I've use called boeshield that is a little thicker than fluid film but not as thick as clear waxoyl but its pricey. Does the job just like the fluid film stuff but haven't used it extensively to say its better.

Gery
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Old June 14th, 2014, 09:40 PM
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I use fluid film at my bike shop to rustproof the inside of steel frames all the time. Especially ones that will be winter ridden, and we use a lot of salt in Ottawa winters. It's lanolin based (oil/wax out of sheeps wool) and does a great job on bare steel, I wonder how it will stick to galvanized steel?

I also want to treat my new chassis for extra salt protection so I'm keen to find out what the best option is as well.
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  #11  
Old June 14th, 2014, 09:45 PM
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Biased...but I waxoyl everything I can and have almost zero rust in those places.
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Old June 14th, 2014, 09:52 PM
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fluid film

Gery,

I bought this from eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluid-Film-1...item2a38829410

Watched a couple videos - looks like a great product. Thanks for the info.





Quote:
Originally Posted by AmityD90 View Post
Its lighter than waxoyl and can be removed much easier. From what I've read it is much more environmentally friendly than using wd40 or other oils. I use it as a protectant on places where I don't want a messy buildup. Not sure but I would guess it would not harm galvanized parts.

People use it on farm equipment and tools like chainsaws and shovels to keep them lubricated and protecting from rust at he same time. I've seen some YouTube videos of independent tests of the product and the results have looked pretty good.

I've been using it on my defender even though its fully waxoyled underneath in my engine compartment and bare metals where you don't want waxoyl to be. My lug nuts and steel wheels are coated with fluid film as they tend to rust without some kind of protectant. I use it more on my 100 series cruiser since it is not waxoyled. I spray it everywhere underneath other than hi temp areas and it works pretty well. I buy a six cans a year and at is more than enough for the hundy and defender. A lot of the yota guys I wheeled with swear by it. Most of them have newer trucks than our defenders that have better rust prevention from the factory so they don't feel the need for heavy duty stuff like waxoyl.

There is another product I've use called boeshield that is a little thicker than fluid film but not as thick as clear waxoyl but its pricey. Does the job just like the fluid film stuff but haven't used it extensively to say its better.

Gery
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Old June 14th, 2014, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartan View Post
Gery,

I bought this from eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluid-Film-1...item2a38829410

Watched a couple videos - looks like a great product. Thanks for the info.
I'm sure it will be beneficial to keep rust at a minimum. I like the product along side waxoyl.
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Old June 14th, 2014, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartan View Post
What is the best way to protect a galvanised chassis. I will be driving it during the winter (lots of salt).

I love the look of the galvanised chassis so I dont want to paint it.

Clear Waxoyl perhaps?
My understanding is that even galvanized chassis don't do well in high salt environments. The aluminum turns to white dust when subjected to salt and water.
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Old June 14th, 2014, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
My understanding is that even galvanized chassis don't do well in high salt environments. The aluminum turns to white dust when subjected to salt and water.
Correct, Galvanized boat trailers corrode rather quickly once they hit the salt water. Retirees from the Mid-West come down all the time with their galvy trailers only to watch them rust away.
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Old June 14th, 2014, 11:20 PM
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My personal recommendation is to just paint with grey epoxy primer after passivation.

I've heard that paint's adhesion to unpassivated (shiny) galvanizing is poor.

Once galv is passivated, it looks dull and grey anyways.

IIRC, Waxoyl is meant for the insides of the chassis, not the exterior. Being a heavy oil coating, I can't imagine clear waxoyl staying clear for long.

Another alternative is two-part urethane clearcoat hand-brushed on the chassis. Again, adhesion on shiny galvanizing is probably poor, but you can give it a try.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 12:50 AM
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I would clear waxoyl the inside and black waxoyl the outside. I think waxoyl is about the only thing that will stick to galvanizing long term. If you like the look, leave the exterior of the crossmember and front frame horns bare with only clear inside. The key is to minimize the corrosion. Eventually the zinc will wear/corrode off, but it takes a very long time. The waxoyl will keep the salt and water off the chassis which will minimize the corrosion so it should last longer (we are talking decades). I have seen galvanized crossmembers sit for decades on the back of northeast and UK trucks where the rest of the frame is gone (broken in two even), but the crossmember is just a dull grey with some small spotting but is 100% solid. Similarly, series cappings can get surface spots, but I have never seen one rusted out. My concern would be the bulkhead before the frame if I were driving in a lot of salt. Obviously, washing off the salt helps a ton.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 01:29 AM
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I've used everything mentioned.

ACF-50 (similar to fluidfilm/boeshield) works best but doesn't last more than a few months/weeks.

Waxoyl is second best and lasts about 2-3 years depending on use. Problem is finding a place that does it properly. My preference is "clear". It turns black anyhow with use. But I like seeing through it where you can.

WD-40 is similar to ACF-50 but not as effective because it won't last as long.

I not do both Waxoyl and ACF-50.
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Old June 15th, 2014, 04:45 PM
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Acf-50

Quote:
Originally Posted by nikojo View Post
I've used everything mentioned.

ACF-50 (similar to fluidfilm/boeshield) works best but doesn't last more than a few months/weeks.

Waxoyl is second best and lasts about 2-3 years depending on use. Problem is finding a place that does it properly. My preference is "clear". It turns black anyhow with use. But I like seeing through it where you can.

WD-40 is similar to ACF-50 but not as effective because it won't last as long.

I not do both Waxoyl and ACF-50.


I got some ACF-50. Ill use it one the hinges and body components.

Thanks to all for the great education rust prevention.
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