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  #1  
Old January 19th, 2004, 12:59 AM
Denfish
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Dennis Fisher
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Future D-90 owner

I will be in the market for a D-90 soon, and just wanted to do some pre buying homework.
I am interested in hearing your comments concerning the D-90 (be honest).
I will be using the Rover as a daily driver in Alaska.


Cheers,
Dennis
Anchorage, AK. USA
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  #2  
Old January 19th, 2004, 09:49 AM
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Rich Campbell
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I have had about 14 cars in my life ranging from a porsche boxter to a 1996 range rover 4.0se. I also have had a 1969 Jeep CJ5. I have to say my d90 is my favorite. With all cars you have to go into understanding what it is and how it rides ect. As long as you understand it isn't going to ride like a lexus I think you will be happy with it. I for one LOVE my d90.
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  #3  
Old January 19th, 2004, 10:07 AM
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94 D-90 Grinding Rover
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You want to talk to Scot Yount, I think he lived in AK and drove rovers up there in the very cold temps.
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  #4  
Old January 19th, 2004, 10:14 AM
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Rich Campbell
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HEY, I agree with mike. I didn't realize you live in AK. I have a hard top on my d90 that I think makes it a little less drafty. I don't mind the cold weather here in PA so I can't say what that would be like when it is minus fu&kin 20.
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  #5  
Old January 19th, 2004, 12:01 PM
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Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
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the funnest automobil I have driven to date. the only reason i would get rid of my SW would be for another ST. D-90's are wonderful trucks. get one.
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  #6  
Old January 20th, 2004, 10:11 AM
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Scott
'94 D90 ST
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Compared to my old Jeep TJ (that I traded for my d90), my softtop is thirstier, just as noisy, much draftier, much colder (heater in TJ was excellent, and the top sealed very well - good heat) due to less than stellar heater. Not sure how the wagon compares, but the drop curtain should help here. Accessories are less readily available. I do not regret my 4x4 swap over to the landie.

You may want to consider what will happen with de-icer/salt in winter time - frames are not galvanized and you may very well run into corrosion issues.
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  #7  
Old January 20th, 2004, 03:57 PM
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Corrosion

Quote:
Originally posted by scoloco

You may want to consider what will happen with de-icer/salt in winter time - frames are not galvanized and you may very well run into corrosion issues.
Yep! My 97 spent the first 25k of it's life in Anchorage. After that it went back to the PNW for another 25k. A fellow forum member here pulled the LRNA records for it after I bought it (@55k) and it showed a page and half of exterior parts that were replaced upon it's return to Seattle due to corrosion. YMMV, of course.
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  #8  
Old January 20th, 2004, 04:35 PM
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Go for it!
I'm sure you can get an upgraded heater matrix.
Go for a station wagon they're warmer, truck cabs are warmest but you don't get them out in the U.S.
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  #9  
Old January 20th, 2004, 04:38 PM
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1995 SW #487/500
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yeah we do
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  #10  
Old January 20th, 2004, 04:41 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Well you learn something every day
Chaps in the back will get pretty chilly though
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  #11  
Old January 20th, 2004, 04:42 PM
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Dennis Fisher
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Unhappy Thanks for your adice, but I have more questions...

I would still like to get a D-90, preferably a SW, but the corrosion issues have me a bit concerned.

What parts are most prone to the cancer? Are there any common places where rust is concealed( ie. inside the frame, inside doors etc)? It seems to me the frame is the most vulnerable. Also, what is the preferred method of protection from rust that I should be looking for in my search for a used 90?

As for the comfort issues, I currently drive a '89 FJ62 with heavy duty suspension. It's a fantastic truck, but I have always wanted a Landie.
Oh, one more newbie question, Is there a way to modify the heater, it gets damn cold here in Anchorage.

Thanks again for your response.

Dennis
Anchorage,AK
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  #12  
Old January 20th, 2004, 05:02 PM
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Glenn Guinto
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Dennis,

Most common cancer spots on D90s that lived in snowy/salty areas are the chassis and also the door frame. On Soft Tops, the area around the door handle is usually shot. Also, if there's a considerable amount of rust on the frames and other external areas, chances are the bulkhead is also suffering from it. Also, the original fasteners that came with the factory are not stainless steel, so expect them to be rusty. Usually the door posts will have rust weeps from the fasteners on the door hinges. Stainless Steel fastener kits are available and usually run anywhere from 200 - 300 bucks.

The preffered rust proofing on LRs is a coating called Waxoyl. I haven't used it but people I know that have swear by it.

A lot of people put an additional heater under the passenger seat. There's actually a thread here that's talking about that right now.

Good luck on your search....they're fantastic trucks!

Glenn
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  #13  
Old January 20th, 2004, 05:03 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Door frames rot. So do the chassis, particularly the rear crossmember behind the rear wheels. Muck gets thrown up there and all the hollow sections just trap it. I fabricated a replacement rear crossmember from 3.2 mm wall thickness rectangular section box steel, sealed it completely and injected it with waxoyl. Whole chassis can and are replaced, doors can be swapped out and if you're handy at steel fabrication the lower section of the door frame can be cut out and replaced. Bulk heads rot particularly above the air vents in GB, as do the footwells ( I'm currently trying to pretend that tin worm isn't eating away at the top of the bulkhead [it is]) repair sections are again available for these areas. All the outriggers are available as repair sections. This sounds full of doom and gloom. Look carefully at the chassis and bulkheadwalk away from a bad one unless it's incredibly cheap. Then pressure wash it and waxoyl it. Both my 90 and 110 are 20 years old the door bottoms are a little rusty but still retain their strength and I've replaced the rear crossmembers. Both crossmembers looked terminally rusty and ready to fall off but withstood a prolonged attack with the angle grinder before coming off. Off the shelf they're about the best offroader you can buy.
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  #14  
Old January 20th, 2004, 05:17 PM
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Mike Hammond
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That's put him off for ever!!!!!!!!!!!
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Diesels.....great when they're going and so easy to work on.
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  #15  
Old January 21st, 2004, 10:09 AM
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Jason Habbal
1997 Defender 90 #1104
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I would not trade my D90 for anything....Of the four vehicles i have owned in my life none of them compare to my 90......I say go for it...

Jason Habbal
97 Alpine White ST #1107
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  #16  
Old January 21st, 2004, 10:23 AM
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Mike
'97 Defender 90 SW
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Dennis,
I am a new '97 D90 SW owner. I was driving an '84 FJ60 with heavy duty susp. before my D90. I still have the FJ but much prefer to drive the Landie. The ride is smoother in the sense that you don't go bouncing down the road like a pogo stick(didn't really notice it until I got the D90). I bought the D90 with a 2 1/2" OME lift/susp system which I love. This thing gets smoother as the bumps get bigger if you can believe that. A friend of mine was riding with me on the backs roads here in S. Louisiana when we tested out the susp. on the way to the hunting camp. He couldn't believe how smooth the ride was, especially when compared to the FJ60. The suspension just sets the truck back down on the ground as opposed to the slam that other rigs give you when coming back to earth. The short wheelbase does give you some sharp hits from time to time but nothing like my Heep did. Overall I love the upgrade to the D90 and the V8 is a nice change also.
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  #17  
Old January 22nd, 2004, 04:21 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Both my 20 year old landrovers have or had all the faults I listed I just work slowly through fixing one bit at a time. I wouldn't change them.
I've always had a land Rover or two or three ever since I could legally drive.
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  #18  
Old January 22nd, 2004, 07:56 PM
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Mike
'97 Defender 90 SW
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Dennis, Do you think the corrosion on the D90 could be any worse than the FJ62? I know mine isn't. Just a thought.
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  #19  
Old January 23rd, 2004, 01:43 PM
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Mike Hammond
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My 1964 Series 2A was absolutely cracking, the bulkhead was in really good nick. I think they used really good steel that year, whereas early 90's and 110's around 1985 were really rust prone
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