Fuel timing 2.5 NA - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 26th, 2014, 04:45 PM
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Fuel timing 2.5 NA

SO, I just changed the timing belt (for good measure, its new to me) on my exmod 2,5 NAD.
Everything went smoothly. The army had greased up all the bolts and balancer... came right apart.

Put it all back together and it wouldn't start. I rotated the fuel pump to full stop left (facing the engine from the radiator) and it runs smooth as glass. Only thing now is. I'm at full stop. I can't fine tune. Be awful coincidental if I was right on at full stop.

Anyway. Don't want to take the front all apart again. I figure the tensioner pulled the fuel pump out of cycle a bit and I didn't notice/couldnt see it from my angle. Maybe a half a tooth or more out of time. would it be possible to pop off the inspection cover over the pump. Break the nut on that pulley free, rotate the pump to centre and re-secure the nut giving myself more timing slack? I've never had an injection system like this, and only 1 other diesel ever.

Current running condition. unburned diesel smoke on cold start. More than it used to probably. Runs smooth though probably could be a bit smoother. Starts a bit easier. 2 compressions or so cold. No particular smoke on acceleration (other than black when I mash the accelerator). A tiny bit quieter than before I changed the belt. The "old" belt looked brand new but the fan belt fragged so I though, why not.


Thanks to anyone that can muddle through the above...
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  #2  
Old October 26th, 2014, 05:35 PM
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No. You need to take the cover off and move the belt a notch.

I assume you have not set the timing with the pins as per the manual.
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Old October 26th, 2014, 06:02 PM
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Thanks..
No I didn't set anything per anything, it was fairly blind going. I've replaced belts and chains before. Followed this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7880. Didn't see anything about timing pins.

I don't quite understand the pin thing. If its on the marks.. its on the marks or why have the marks. I downloaded the manual once it wouldn't start. I'll get it once I actually see it in person.

The harmonic balancer is all dried out, so I'll find one and buy some seals etc and do it right. I'll probably come up with other things to refresh by then.
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  #4  
Old October 26th, 2014, 06:12 PM
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And I could swear I've seen those tools for sale... Now I can't find them...

anyone know where they sell them in the US?
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Old October 26th, 2014, 06:43 PM
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To set the timing on one of these, you stick a pin in the body of the pump with the engine at TDC by the flywheel notch. What marks are you using to align the pump?

Download the factory manual. It is available at a dozen sites. The procedure is pretty simple. Here is one site: http://www.landroverweb.com/landrove...sel-v8-petrol/

You can just use a drill bit if you like.
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Old October 26th, 2014, 06:44 PM
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Ben:
When you replaced the belt, exactly what process did you follow?
I am unable to determine this precisely from your first post.
If you locked everything in place with the proper sized pins then you shouldn't have an issue, but when the pump loads with pressure it pushes and wants to snap forward.
Without the proper special tools (pins) in the timing kit, it is near impossible to get the timing spot-on.
I am not saying it's impossible, but sure isn't easy by any means without the special tools.
As John suggests, you need to tear it all down and use the proper timing tools to line everything up and get the timing correctly set.
There is no other way to replace the belt in my opinion having done a few dozen of them.
I would forego trying to move the belt a notch here and there trying to compensate for what you think may have happened.
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Old October 26th, 2014, 07:25 PM
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Yes, i got the manual. I was just diesel ignorant. I followed step by step the instructions in the above link.

I managed to get the cam pulley to stay in place as well the crank... The fuel pump of course spins and spins... The big deal was putting the tensioner on. This pulled the slack out of the belt between the cam and fuel pump pulley. I tried to account for this, but i may have missed it. Or from my angle couldnt see the marks misaligned slightly.

The pin stops this and assures proper marks lining up right?
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  #8  
Old October 26th, 2014, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DefenderMd View Post
And I could swear I've seen those tools for sale... Now I can't find them... anyone know where they sell them in the US?
I bought my kit from roversnorth
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  #9  
Old October 26th, 2014, 07:46 PM
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Y'all are great... and apparently are on 24/7...

thanks
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  #10  
Old October 26th, 2014, 08:16 PM
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You can use a 6mm Allen wrench for the fly wheel....and a drill bit, as mentioned above, for the pump. I have extra harmonic balancers if needed. You will be amazed what 1 tooth off will do......trust me.
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Old October 26th, 2014, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DefenderMd View Post
Yes, i got the manual. I was just diesel ignorant. I followed step by step the instructions in the above link.

I managed to get the cam pulley to stay in place as well the crank... The fuel pump of course spins and spins... The big deal was putting the tensioner on. This pulled the slack out of the belt between the cam and fuel pump pulley. I tried to account for this, but i may have missed it. Or from my angle couldnt see the marks misaligned slightly.

The pin stops this and assures proper marks lining up right?
Yes the pins make sure everything lines up.

You typed fuel pump, but I think you meant injection pump.

Angle?
Why couldn't you see?
Did you not remove the grill and radiator?
I always remove the radiator in order to see the timing marks.
When setting the timing, you actually need to be able to see what you are doing.
Since I can't see too well, I go to the extra trouble of removing the radiator as it's much easier than tearing the engine down again.

BTW you can start the engine and run it a few minutes with the front cover off to make sure all is well before reassembling.

Hope this helps... good luck!
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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #12  
Old October 26th, 2014, 08:27 PM
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yea, I didn't take out the radiator... just the shrouds and fan and all...

I palpated the sprockets for precision alignment. fairly simple... I had installed the belt half a dozen times trying to get the slack out of the belt between the cam and crank.

W/e obviously it wasn't much off, since I could just rotate a few degrees for satisfactory results.. but still... not happy where it is.

6mm alan and a drill bit... much better than that 100 dollar kit full of extras.

Thats going in my tool box.

------ Follow up post added October 26th, 2014 08:37 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Yes the pins make sure everything lines up.

You typed fuel pump, but I think you meant injection pump.

!
Yea... yea... diesel lingo... I've only ever had one mechanical injection car before. A mercedes 300e petrol. Awesome but not a rover system.
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  #13  
Old October 28th, 2014, 08:06 PM
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So i tore it apart and everything was lined up spot on... So i centered up the pump on the f mark. This puts the pump straight in the middle of the slots.. Starts immediately and doesnt smoke a bit. So... I figure an 18j must be an f mark engine. I read the f means freight? And yes there is an 18j apparently... Good thing i tore it apart... I had set the timing belt to "good enough " tension with plans to look up the tension settings... Then got distracted and forgot. Probably was ok... But better safe...
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Old October 28th, 2014, 08:14 PM
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Good job! Congrats to another self sufficient Defender owner.
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Old October 28th, 2014, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DefenderMd View Post
So i tore it apart and everything was lined up spot on... So i centered up the pump on the f mark. This puts the pump straight in the middle of the slots.. Starts immediately and doesnt smoke a bit. So... I figure an 18j must be an f mark engine. I read the f means freight? And yes there is an 18j apparently... Good thing i tore it apart... I had set the timing belt to "good enough " tension with plans to look up the tension settings... Then got distracted and forgot. Probably was ok... But better safe...
Very good.
So now just get off the $100 and buy the timing kit...
Glad it runs fine... enjoy.
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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #16  
Old October 29th, 2014, 08:31 AM
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Any recommendations on when timing belts should be replaced on these engines.
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  #17  
Old October 29th, 2014, 09:08 AM
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Pretty sure LR says every 60k but commonly recommended is 40-45k.
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  #18  
Old October 29th, 2014, 09:12 AM
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Pretty sure LR says every 60k but commonly recommended is 40-45k.
X2; better to err on the side of caution
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