Fuel tank skid plate - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 3rd, 2005, 09:08 AM
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George Parthmer
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Fuel tank skid plate

i have noticed over time that my fuel tank skid plate has been suffering from corrosion. i tried to cover it up with some sanding and spray paint. what was left of the factory plate caught a rock and pretty much split right up the middle. thank god it didnt hit the tank. anyway - i was looking at the expedition exchange skid plate but $300 seems a little salty since i got my diff. guards, steering guard and T-case guards for $600. i was wondering if anyone has any leads on a less expensive one. thanks in advance. george
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  #2  
Old November 3rd, 2005, 09:14 AM
Eric Siepmann
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Eric W. Siepmann
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoParth
i have noticed over time that my fuel tank skid plate has been suffering from corrosion. i tried to cover it up with some sanding and spray paint. what was left of the factory plate caught a rock and pretty much split right up the middle. thank god it didnt hit the tank. anyway - i was looking at the expedition exchange skid plate but $300 seems a little salty since i got my diff. guards, steering guard and T-case guards for $600. i was wondering if anyone has any leads on a less expensive one. thanks in advance. george

The EE is made by SlickRock Fabrication. It is a very good guard and worth the money. Eastcoast rover has one for around the same price but it is made out of aluminum. Safari Gard also has one. . .

EwS
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  #3  
Old November 3rd, 2005, 09:30 AM
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David Shechter
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The EE (slickrock) is made of Stainless Steel (not cheap) and won't rust. What happens is water gets trapped between the fuel tank and the skid plate. The tank is made of plastic so it isn't effected by the water (thank God); however, the skid plate just slowly gets eaten away. FYI, the plastic fuel tanks are no longer available and near impossible to find. Protect it with your life!
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  #4  
Old November 3rd, 2005, 11:21 AM
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George Parthmer
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awesome advice - thanks - i guess i am going to have to spend a little now compared to spending a lot later.
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  #5  
Old November 3rd, 2005, 11:35 AM
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yeah its a really nice piece of equipment. real heavy
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  #6  
Old November 3rd, 2005, 12:50 PM
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Jim Cheney
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it'll blow ya mind - it weighs like 25 pounds.
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  #7  
Old November 3rd, 2005, 01:13 PM
Eric Siepmann
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
it'll blow ya mind - it weighs like 25 pounds.

Yeah. That was lovely when when installing too!


EwS
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  #8  
Old November 3rd, 2005, 03:00 PM
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Ken
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You can't go wrong with the Slickrock guard.
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  #9  
Old November 3rd, 2005, 04:28 PM
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no way man its super nice even has correct holes for the sway bars.
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  #10  
Old November 3rd, 2005, 05:24 PM
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James
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As all the other say the SlickRock one is great. I had one shipped over to me in the UK.

If you mad like me you can even spend a few days polishing it before you put it on

Best regards

James
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  #11  
Old November 4th, 2005, 11:54 AM
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And another thing is that the Slick Rock unit dispenses with the "stupid welded tube" on the leading edge in favor of a simple crease in the metal. Both perform the same function of keeping the tank from sliding fore and aft, but the "stupid welded tube" collects crap. Simpler is better.
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  #12  
Old November 4th, 2005, 12:44 PM
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I don't kmow anything about this skid. But I do the price of raw materials lately. If this is a thick guage SS, which it sounds like it is, then $300 for the skid is a smoking price. The raw material is probably near $200 if you or I went to just buy it. So buy one and a spare

Of course, my whole tank and set up was $230, but AL is a tiny bit cheaper than SS. Make that waaayyy cheaper.
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  #13  
Old November 4th, 2005, 02:32 PM
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If you ask nicely, Slick Rock will make you a titanium skid.
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  #14  
Old November 4th, 2005, 02:47 PM
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Depending on the SS used (303, 304, 15-5, 13-8) and the heat treat. SS could actually be stronger than Titanuim. I say, make one out of Inconel. Stick a rover sticker on there and I know one dude that would buy it, nameing no names!!
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  #15  
Old November 4th, 2005, 10:16 PM
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George Parthmer
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ordered and in the mail ... perhaps there will be a later post chronicalling the struggle i will face with bolts as badly rusted as the skid tank itself (or likerly worse)
Thanks for the great advice, i new you guys would talk me into opening my wallet!
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  #16  
Old November 5th, 2005, 02:21 AM
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all I can say is go out RIGHT NOW, with some PB Blaster and soak the shit out of every bolt!!!!!!! I soaked mine for a couple weeks and they eventually came off.... easing them in and out. Pain in the arse, but worth it!!

your pocket book will thank you once the new one is on!!
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  #17  
Old November 5th, 2005, 03:26 PM
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Start soaking the bolts now with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. I soaked mine for a while and they came right out. The worst bolts by far are the ones where the skid bolts to the rear crossmember.
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  #18  
Old November 5th, 2005, 06:47 PM
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I will 2nd the PB one of the most important items in the tool box
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  #19  
Old November 6th, 2005, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabber
all I can say is go out RIGHT NOW, with some PB Blaster and soak the shit out of every bolt!!!!!!!
Dumb question time. How do you do this? I assume spraying it periodically doesnt count.
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  #20  
Old November 6th, 2005, 11:53 AM
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Just spary it and spray it and spray it. Use atleast 2 cans of it.
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