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  #41  
Old November 15th, 2005, 10:54 AM
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Phillip
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I got a stocker skid plate with no rust if anyone needs it, for a small fee.
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  #42  
Old May 30th, 2006, 06:13 PM
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Has anyone got any experience with ECR's alloy skid plate? I have an NRP stainless exhaust that has some rust on it so I'm thinking alloy may be the way to go.
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  #43  
Old May 30th, 2006, 08:15 PM
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Marc
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Wow, I thought my skid plate was bad!

The slickrock stainless is a thing of beauty..
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  #44  
Old May 30th, 2006, 09:32 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Certain grades of stainless will rust, but not the grade used on the Slick Rock plate. The stainlesses used in exhausts are frequently of the sort which can corrode - I wouldnt judge the plate based on the exhaust.
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  #45  
Old May 31st, 2006, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antonios
Has anyone got any experience with ECR's alloy skid plate? I have an NRP stainless exhaust that has some rust on it so I'm thinking alloy may be the way to go.
We have only sold a couple out of house. If you want the pros and cons PM me or call the shop. It isn't appropriate for me to try and sell stuff here.
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  #46  
Old June 23rd, 2006, 05:55 PM
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OK, so I got three bolts out and broke the other three. The two that are in the crossmember, and the drivers side rear bottom are the broken ones. I tried grabbing the top of the one on the bottom with a vise grip but I couldn't get it to move.

Anyway, it seems the best thing to do would be to figure out some way to push the bolt in, instead of pulling it out. It doesn't make much sense to pull 3/4 inch of rusted bolt threads through the hole. BUT, it seems all the special extraction bits are designed to do just that. Any ideas?

Also the threaded holes for the front bolts seem to fit tight with a metric m10 1.5 bolt. But the rear bolt hole is very loose fitting, the bolt screws in but wobbles around. I'm guessing that I'll need to re-tap this hole to a larger size. I'm leaning towards drilling out and re-tapping the three stuck bolts too.

Unless anyone has another suggestion.
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  #47  
Old June 23rd, 2006, 06:26 PM
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I had to drill and re-tap the holes when I installed the slickrock. The bolts were way far gone and they all broke when I tried removing them.
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  #48  
Old June 23rd, 2006, 10:06 PM
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George Kase
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don't forget, that skid plate is holding up your fuel tank and all the fuel in it...it is very heavy...one should make sure that the tank is supported...I happen to know this...
George
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  #49  
Old June 23rd, 2006, 10:12 PM
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George Parthmer
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i used a ratchet strap to hold the tank in place
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  #50  
Old June 23rd, 2006, 11:41 PM
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I used a 2X4 and a hydraulic jack.
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  #51  
Old June 23rd, 2006, 11:47 PM
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I just snuck some rope between the rotting skid plate and the tank after I loosened the bolts, tied it off, and it held the tank fine. When I put on the new plate I untied the rope and pulled it out before tightening all the bolts. Low tech, but it worked.
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  #52  
Old June 24th, 2006, 01:52 PM
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OK, right now I got two ratchet straps holding the tank in place. And I'm planning on retapping four of the mount points. I haven't had to do this before so I need to go buy the tools. All I need is a special drill bit, a tap and handle...right? My main concern is drilling the new hole perpendicular and centered on the broken bolt. Any tips? Other than that, it seems pretty straight forward.

I haven't drained the tank but it doesn't seem neccessary now that i have the old plate off and the tank strapped in place. I have about a half tank of gas. I would have driven it down further but the plate split in two just after whats left of the retaining bar so I couldn't wait any longer.

One more thing, I live in an apartment building and I may need to move the truck to different floor of the parking garage. Would I be crazy to move it with only two ratchet straps holding the gas tank?
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  #53  
Old June 24th, 2006, 10:00 PM
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Titanium drill bit, (couple) , tap tool, and it's pretty straight foward. Use a punch marker to get the drill bit centered, drill slow. I didn't empty the gas tank, but you have to be real careful not to rupture the fuel hoses, and fuel pump connections. Driving it up a parking lot with the tank strapped??...Oh man, I wouldn't do it, unless I knew the set up was bombproof. You don't want to find yourself driving with the tank falling down, the fuel lines rupturing, possible sparks or while you or anyone else is checking it out with a big fat cigar in their mouth..
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  #54  
Old June 25th, 2006, 03:21 PM
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Ok one more question, does anyone remember what size they used when tapping the new threads? The original bolts are metric M10. The local hardware store only has english sizes so I guess the best size to use would be a 7/16 since m10 is between 3/8" & 7/16"
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