Fuel stop solenoid failed again - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 05:12 PM
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Fuel stop solenoid failed again

The second day I had my truck it wouldn't turn off. Pulled wire on stop solenoid, no change. OK solenoid stuck. Replaced solenoid with a Bearmach unit. All well and good. A couple weeks goes by till today. Turn truck off, stays running. Pull wire off solenoid, and it stays running. Stall it out.

What gives? Crappy quality solenoid (It was only $8) ? Something in fuel (changed filter 2 weeks ago)? I am annoyed I have to do it again. I don't mind paying the money for a better quality part. I just don't want to be updating this thread in two more weeks with the same issue again. The original solenoid appeared to be OEM, I believe it said Bosch on it.

Any tests I can run? I seems pretty clear to me it is a mechanical problem since it stays running with the wire off.

I don't mind paying $21 for the FLAG or $115 for the Bosch if it means better quality. Especially if I don't have to do this again.

Thanks
Adam
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  #2  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st0k3d View Post
The second day I had my truck it wouldn't turn off. Pulled wire on stop solenoid, no change. OK solenoid stuck. Replaced solenoid with a Bearmach unit. All well and good. A couple weeks goes by till today. Turn truck off, stays running. Pull wire off solenoid, and it stays running. Stall it out.

What gives? Crappy quality solenoid (It was only $8) ? Something in fuel (changed filter 2 weeks ago)? I am annoyed I have to do it again. I don't mind paying the money for a better quality part. I just don't want to be updating this thread in two more weeks with the same issue again. The original solenoid appeared to be OEM, I believe it said Bosch on it.

Any tests I can run? I seems pretty clear to me it is a mechanical problem since it stays running with the wire off.

I don't mind paying $21 for the FLAG or $115 for the Bosch if it means better quality. Especially if I don't have to do this again.

Thanks
Adam
We have Bosch ones for 200/300 TDI for $39.99 + $6.80 Shipping with a 1 year warranty.
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  #3  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
We have Bosch ones for 200/300 TDI for $39.99 + $6.80 Shipping with a 1 year warranty.
Killer, ill send payment. I think I'm going to replace lift pump too.
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  #4  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 05:38 PM
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When you remove the failed one this time, stick a magnet on a stick, $3 at most auto parts stores down in the hole in the IP. As the rotary pumps wear that's where metal shavings seem to end up. I have puled scary amounts of metal out with a magnet from a truck that otherwise ran great. YMMV
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  #5  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
When you remove the failed one this time, stick a magnet on a stick, $3 at most auto parts stores down in the hole in the IP. As the rotary pumps wear that's where metal shavings seem to end up. I have puled scary amounts of metal out with a magnet from a truck that otherwise ran great. YMMV
Oh boy. That's what I had in mind, not what I wanted to hear.
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  #6  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
When you remove the failed one this time, stick a magnet on a stick, $3 at most auto parts stores down in the hole in the IP. As the rotary pumps wear that's where metal shavings seem to end up. I have puled scary amounts of metal out with a magnet from a truck that otherwise ran great. YMMV
Thanks for the advice.

I think I am going to pickup a new lift pump. Also install a electric Airtex fuel pump and sedimenter and new line from tank to LP. I have a sedimenter on the way from RDavis. I see the way this is going and want to be proactive. I don't want to chance running the IP dry and having a $$$$ failure, which I may be already showing signs of.

Assuming Delphi lift pump is the one to get vs Bearmach? They are same price. I am not going $250 for a Genuine.
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  #7  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 11:06 AM
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Which engine?


For my 2.5na, when my white box one failed, I installed a FLAG while I went looking for a Delphi which I carried as a spare. The FLAG lasted ~1.5 years and ~2K miles before it failed. We'll see how long the Delphi lasts. If your engine's choice is white box, FLAG or Bosch, go for Bosch.
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Old August 23rd, 2016, 11:12 AM
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Which engine?


For my 2.5na, when my white box one failed, I installed a FLAG while I went looking for a Delphi which I carried as a spare. The FLAG lasted ~1.5 years and ~2K miles before it failed. We'll see how long the Delphi lasts. If your engine's choice is white box, FLAG or Bosch, go for Bosch.
It's a 200TDI. I ordered the Bosch from RDavis. Hopefully between that and stucking a magnet in the hole to check for metal shavings will do the trick.

Oddly enough I also notices there is no spark when attaching the connector to the solenoid when running, like there was when I replaced the first one. That being said with the electrical disconnected regardless it should shutoff as it is a mechanical system, so who knows.

Ill update when I get the new stuff to install.
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Old August 23rd, 2016, 11:33 AM
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Anything at all can stop that plunger from operating correctly.
Mine had a single cloth fiber (thread) that caused my "no stop" issue.
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Old August 27th, 2016, 01:03 AM
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Check for metal shavings! Running a fleet of 12 Defenders i have had this a few times. It starts with the Stop solanoid failing for about three times in ever shorter distances. Shortly after the injector pump fails. It could be a sign that your pump is slowly destroying itself.
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  #11  
Old August 27th, 2016, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thiemo View Post
Check for metal shavings! Running a fleet of 12 Defenders i have had this a few times. It starts with the Stop solanoid failing for about three times in ever shorter distances. Shortly after the injector pump fails. It could be a sign that your pump is slowly destroying itself.
If i find shavings what then? Can the pump be rebuilt or am I screwed? This thing only has 80k miles on it
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Old August 27th, 2016, 07:45 AM
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You can send it to Blue Ridge Diesel in Salem, VA for a rebuild.
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Old August 27th, 2016, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thiemo View Post
Check for metal shavings! Running a fleet of 12 Defenders i have had this a few times. It starts with the Stop solanoid failing for about three times in ever shorter distances. Shortly after the injector pump fails. It could be a sign that your pump is slowly destroying itself.
What is the failure mode for death by shavings? Does it cause them to leak or not activate/shut off?

Mine had two go, but they both failed where the plastic insulator seals to the solenoid body. One insulator melted, deformed a bit and leaked while the second just started spaying fuel from the joint. This failure mode seems to be more of a quality issue. Thanks,

I'm running a Delphi now, so we'll see how it goes.
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Old August 27th, 2016, 10:33 AM
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Adam

I had a similar experience, just on my 300TDi and going cheap on the solenoid was the root cause in my opinion. The Bosch item though expensive almost guarantees you flawless starts and stops.

Cheers

Fraser
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Old August 27th, 2016, 11:17 AM
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Adam I had a similar experience, just on my 300TDi and going cheap on the solenoid was the root cause in my opinion. The Bosch item though expensive almost guarantees you flawless starts and stops. Cheers Fraser
thanks! Some parts I swear just don't pay to save $ on.
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Old August 27th, 2016, 11:57 PM
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It can be rebuilt. The pump is lubricated by the diesel going trough it. In general they last for nearly ever. Main causes for failure is crap diesel. If you have a lot of water in it the elements start rusting and give up pretty quick. Also which is common here in Africa the stations mix it with kerosin or parrafin to increase their profits. Kero has a cleaning effect and stops the lubrication. Not sure what mixed in bio fuels are doing. Possibly the same effect.
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Old August 28th, 2016, 11:22 AM
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FYI If anyone happens to be in a pinch and rather not stall your truck to get it to stop, try reving the engine up(in neutral) and it may turn off properly.
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