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  #1  
Old July 19th, 2014, 01:07 PM
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Fuel pump test

Truck not starting. Isolated problem to the fuel pump. Trying to decide how to test if the fuel pump it not working if the fuel pump isn't getting power. Hit test light to all prongs on the pigtail that attaches to the fuel pump at the gas tank and no power. Whats the next stop on that line or some type of switch that delivers power to the pump / that pigtail. I've checked all fuses and they're good.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old July 19th, 2014, 02:14 PM
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Try resetting the inertia switch on the firewall/bulkhead (engine side).
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Old July 19th, 2014, 02:33 PM
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FYI this is for his Disco...though same rules apply. I suspected the pump as well.
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  #4  
Old July 19th, 2014, 02:43 PM
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Billy,

You should hear the pump when you turn the ignition.

It will help if you remove the sound mat and carpet.

It will take 5 minutes to remove them and another 15 to swap out the fuel pump.

You can buy a new one for cheap.

This is the cross reference part: Airtex e3270

P
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  #5  
Old July 19th, 2014, 05:41 PM
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He's got no power to the pump. Reset the inertia switch. I think its one of the relays but i'm not sure which one drives the pump.
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Old July 19th, 2014, 07:35 PM
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There's a connector near the left rear wheel well that can get corroded.
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Old July 20th, 2014, 02:33 PM
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Fuel pump connector is the blue unit next to ecu, the black connector is the efi relay. Do you your self a favor and replace both relays. That way you have a clean base on which to start your diagnosis.
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Old July 20th, 2014, 07:16 PM
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Thanks. And both are at the foot behind the panel on the passenger side correct?

- Pedro if this doesn't work can I get that part at Napa? Or do I need to go to Justin?


Quote:
Originally Posted by carlosz View Post
Fuel pump connector is the blue unit next to ecu, the black connector is the efi relay. Do you your self a favor and replace both relays. That way you have a clean base on which to start your diagnosis.
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Old July 21st, 2014, 10:23 PM
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If it is a range or disco the relays will be by the footwell pre 95 range and defenders under the right front seat...I have never looked into non rover replacement relays but I guess it does not hurt to try a bosh 5 prong as a last resort.
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Old July 23rd, 2014, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Dro View Post
Billy,

You should hear the pump when you turn the ignition.

It will help if you remove the sound mat and carpet.

It will take 5 minutes to remove them and another 15 to swap out the fuel pump.

You can buy a new one for cheap.

This is the cross reference part: Airtex e3270

P
At any parts store, have them look up a fuel pump for 1996 Chevy Impala SS

I always buy a new sock for it too, and pull the "one hitter" screen out of the bottom of the new pump. And you may need to buy a fuel pump wiring connector kit. You will also need a foot of 5/16 fuel line and two clamps. Make sure you position the clamps so they dont short on the wires or you risk an explosion.
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Old July 23rd, 2014, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redrange View Post
Thanks. And both are at the foot behind the panel on the passenger side correct?

- Pedro if this doesn't work can I get that part at Napa? Or do I need to go to Justin?
I bought mine at Advance Auto and used the P20 discount code.

Like Joel said. This is a common part and you can buy it at any parts store.

I only got it at AA because it's 1/2 mile from my house.
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  #12  
Old July 23rd, 2014, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Dro View Post
I bought mine at Advance Auto and used the P20 discount code.

Like Joel said. This is a common part and you can buy it at any parts store.

I only got it at AA because it's 1/2 mile from my house.
I too buy from advance, often you can find codes for as much as 35% off. My local store stopped carrying the connector kit, but o'reillys had it in stock.
I think the sock is part number FS22 ?

If you have a Schrader valve in the fuel rail, press it to relieve any pressure before taking off your lines at the pump. Then once the pump is off remove it and let the fuel drain back out of the lines, and go ahead and change your fuel filter. Finish the fuel pump up, and then find some clean hose that fits over the threaded Schrader valve port. Take a plastic bottle with a screw on cap and drill a hole in the cap slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the hose. Drill two 1/8 vent holes in the cap. While the valve core is out, hook this contraption to that port and turn the key several times, cycling the fuel pump. This will eventually push out the air, and then fuel from the tank through the new filter and all the lines, and the fuel rail, into the plastic bottle. Dont spill it on the exhaust. A half to three quarters full is plenty, take it off and put the valve core back in. Cycle it a couple more times and fire it up.
Take a close look at the fuel in the bottle, if there is any particles you probably have trash or rust in the fuel rail. Cloudy snot bubbles at the bottom are water.
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