Fuel Pump Replacement Time Already? Help Me Confirm. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:10 PM
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Fuel Pump Replacement Time Already? Help Me Confirm.

So my truck hasn't been running right and I gave up on doing it myself to get some fresh eyes on it. I have extensive records of the vehicle's service back to 1995 all in Excel, and I saw a few times in the vehicle's history where the tank was dropped and the fuel pump was replaced. The last time that I can see that it was replaced was in early 2005 about 40,000 miles ago under similar symptoms.

I've checked more than I've written below, and it's still a little wordy, but long story short is the truck has been driving me crazy. The last fuel pump came from Atlantic British fuel pump kit ESR3928K back in late 2004, and was installed in 2005. Before that it looks like it was replaced in 2002 or 2003. It just doesn't seem to make sense to me that it would need to be replaced so frequently. What else should I be checking? Clearly it could be time for a new one I just want to confirm.

For those with some time to read:

Last year the truck started having issues starting when it was wet out. Before that I had noticed that under load at times it would hesitate a little (but was way worse before a new exhaust with new cats and new o2s were installed the year before), so I went to perform some simple maintenance like a new rotor and cap on the distributor and that's when the shit hit the fan. While removing the rotor I broke the internal mechanism of the distributor and was told the Mallory was a nice water tight alternative. I installed the Mallory Unilite distributor and the truck drove great but I still noticed some hesitation when pulling away from a stop and occasionally under load up hill. Went to Guy Fawkes at the end of last year without issue. Drove it all the way home and washed the hell out of it with a power washer while the truck was running. The next time I went to start it, it would not start.

Replaced fuel filter, performed a tune-up with new spark plugs and wires, IACV, flame trap, etc., but wouldn't start on it's own, but got it started on ether. After that it started fine on its own, drove it into NYC, and while sitting in traffic it died. Wouldn't start on its own. Got it started on ether. Same thing happened a few times, brought it to Felix who worked on the timing and drove it around but couldn't duplicate it. Let it sit running, would shut it off, would always start back up on its own. So I picked it up, there was no pinging, truck drove great for a few hundred miles that weekend, then a week later I drove it 100 feet and it died pulling away from the light - I had gotten it up to about 3000 rpms, was about to shift into 2nd, and the rpms dropped to 200, then died when I released the accelerator. Couldn't get it restarted and just decided to send it back while the symptoms persisted.
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  #2  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:11 PM
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do you know how to use the search function......




LMAO...
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  #3  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:15 PM
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Your vehicle was found to have records of service work done at the Las Vegas dealer in 2004.. It had an oil change by bill in 2005 and you got gas in 2006...

------ Follow up post added July 31st, 2014 08:16 PM ------

And you were wearing red undies..

------ Follow up post added July 31st, 2014 08:21 PM ------

Your symptoms of repeated fuel pump replacement could be down to one of two things..the fuel pump having to overwork due to pressure resistance..are there any restrictions in the line or filter...?? And another often unchecked problem is poor voltage/amperage to the pump..insufficient voltage flow to a pump can cause it to burn out the brushes and cause problems like you are experiencing.. I have had numerous fuel pump relays go bad and cause this sort of fault.. When replacing a fuel pump you should replace the relay also..a quick easy way is to just supply a good positive power to the pump as close to the pump itself and drive it for a while and see if it changes your symptoms... Check the fuel pump ground also...
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  #4  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:35 PM
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Pull the distributor cap and look at the breaker plate in the distributor. The breaker plate needs to be grounded. Had a truck that we installed a Unilite distributor in start having random misfiring and stalling episodes after a trip to Hole in the Rock trail in Utah. Ultimately found that, as installed, the breaker plate was only grounded through the 3 bearings that it pivots on. Enough dust had mixed with the grease that, as the plate would move via vacuum signal, the ground would go away. Adding a separate ground wire immediately fixed the problem.

Also, there is a 2 pin connector next to the heater box with a white/purple and green/black wire. This is where the fuel pump harness connects to the main harness. Pull this connector apart and inspect for corrosion. I have seen the connector seals fail and corrosion develop which can cause voltage drops and intermittent fuel pump operation.
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Old July 31st, 2014, 08:50 PM
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I know this might sound stupid but do you have a K&N filter. My truck used to do shit like that. I would be driving for like 20 miles and then it would just die and not restart. For the longest time I thought it was stepper motor related but once I changed the filter I never had the issue again. From your description I don't see it being a fuel starvation issue.
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Old July 31st, 2014, 08:57 PM
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Normal land rover genuine air filter was installed as part of the tune-up.
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Old July 31st, 2014, 09:03 PM
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Also from what I remember the shop saying, the truck had low fuel pressure when it wouldn't start, but after starting it on ether it read normal.
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Old July 31st, 2014, 09:38 PM
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Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? I would do that to start with. Since this has been an ongoing problem, I would recommend temporarily rigging up a fuel pressure gauge inside of the vehicle so you can see it from the drivers seat. I'm not saying its your fuel pump, but on other Land Rovers I've going replaced up to 5 fuel pumps that were bad out of the box or failed within 10 miles on one vehicle. Aftermarket fuel pumps for Land Rovers are junk in my experience. That being said, I don't even know if Genuine ones are available.
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  #9  
Old July 31st, 2014, 10:03 PM
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The shop can't duplicate it right now and has driven it a few times, let it sit a few times while reading pressure and he only noticed it low that one time I believe. It just seems like the vehicle has had this symptom come up a few times in its life and the answer was a new fuel pump. It probably does need a new one, but I'm just trying to see if I'm missing something else. Thanks for all of the pointers so far. I just want my old dependable Defender back.
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  #10  
Old July 31st, 2014, 10:06 PM
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I had an intermittent fuel issue which turned out to be a bad wiring connection at the pump. I suspect the original cause was too high resistance and overheating at the connection.
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Old July 31st, 2014, 10:10 PM
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Yeah I asked him to confirm wiring integrity at the pump since it wouldn't start after I had concentrated quite a bit of power washing time back there. I'd assume the tank still needs to be dropped to access/test that though.
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Old July 31st, 2014, 10:21 PM
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You're dealing with mechanics that are paid by the job, not by the hour, they aren't going to drive the vehicle around for extended periods of time and risk getting stranded to duplicate the problem. If you end up having them put a fuel pump in it, but also suspect the wiring, you could have them run an overlay harness for the fuel pump.
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Old July 31st, 2014, 10:57 PM
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I hear ya. He said he's just been taking it out when he's had time or had to get something. The shop is in Queens/LIC and my garage is in NJ, so it's not like I can bring it on extended trips through the tunnels of Manhattan and just hope I don't break down along the way, as there are some traffic consequences I wouldn't want to be the cause of.
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Old August 1st, 2014, 12:17 AM
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I hate to go there, since many tend to circle back to this anytime there's an issue, but have you replaced the Ignition Amplifier Module ever? Or are you running the relocation kit? When I was chasing my issue, many symptoms are as you describe (and stated in your email). Mine ended up being the Ignition Amp Module, though before that I rebuilt the fuel pump while chasing things down .
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Old August 1st, 2014, 07:47 AM
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And just as a side note...not sure if you are replacing the whole fuel pump assembly every time... You can replace the pump inside the whole assembly..it's super cheap and easy to do..or you could put a low pressure one in it and then mount an external high pressure one on the frame...with the pump being such a pain in the ass to get to I have thought about doing this on a trail rig for ease of repairs in the middle of nowhere..
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Old August 1st, 2014, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
The shop is in Queens/LIC and my garage is in NJ, so it's not like I can bring it on extended trips through the tunnels of Manhattan and just hope I don't break down along the way, as there are some traffic consequences I wouldn't want to be the cause of.
I am always afraid that I'm going to break down on bridges and in tunnels. I don't think its a totally irrational fear.
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Old August 1st, 2014, 08:00 AM
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has anyone cut a hole in the rear floor for access
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Old August 1st, 2014, 08:10 AM
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Dropping the tank is really easy.
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Old August 1st, 2014, 08:40 AM
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This has to be the worst running Rover on this board....



Get someone to follow you with a tow strap in case you get stranded @ bridge/tunnel.

An Airtex pump from Autozone or the like is $75.

I think the issue lies with the harness & the pump.


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Old August 1st, 2014, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
And just as a side note...not sure if you are replacing the whole fuel pump assembly every time... You can replace the pump inside the whole assembly..it's super cheap and easy to do..or you could put a low pressure one in it and then mount an external high pressure one on the frame...with the pump being such a pain in the ass to get to I have thought about doing this on a trail rig for ease of repairs in the middle of nowhere..
I emailed Josh the info on the rebuild yesterday actually. I rebuilt mine for $80.
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