Fuel pump relay 95 D90SW - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old September 10th, 2004, 02:35 AM
alaskajgg
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lawrence e nudson
1995 D-90 sw nas 11of 500
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Location: nikiski, alaska,usa
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Hi Guys, I got the relays today from FEDEX and I'm sorry to say I still can't get the pump to run. I checked power at the fuel pump fuse and it's good . It works just like it's supposed to. With key in second notch it gives voltage for about 15 seconds and then when you crank engine you get constant voltage. I then pulled the plug at the inertia switch and it reads the same way. This is the last place before the pump. Now as a last resort before I have to do the dreaded fuel tank drop . I'm going to get a voltage check as close to the tank that I can get to in the wire.. If I still have juice ,like at the inertia switch then it must be tank drop time.I thank you all for the good suggestions and advice. Larry

Yousef thanks for the info on the access panel I'm almost tempted to start in with a hole saw without dropping the tank. Barry O. No wonder I couldn't find a drain hole. I'll get my Oklahoma credit card ready to siphon it out.Also have the compressor handy to blow all the sand and gravel away . I was amazed at how much that skid plate collected . This rig never has had any off roading since new . Just deep winter snow here in Alaska. That will change when we get it to Casa Grande. I just retired and am looking forward to more playing.
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  #22  
Old September 10th, 2004, 07:27 AM
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cgalpin
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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Larry, I completed this last night. With the right tools, it really isn't that bad. So do yourself a favor and go get a couple of things right now.

1. Cobalt drill bits. These drilled through the broken bolts like nothing. You'll need one or two smaller sizes to get started (depending on if you want to try an easy-out you may want two sizes) and then an 11/32" one for when you need to tap it out.

2. A 10mm 1.50 pitch tap

3. A nice center punch - the closer you get the hole you drill to center, the better off you are.

With the 11/32" bit, tapping them out was a breeze (use a little oil to lubricate the bits and tap). I had originally eyeballed the bit size without thinking to read the recommended size on the tap, and it was impossible to get it started. Once I used the rigth size (ok i only had 10/32" handy) it went very easily.

When (not if ) you break the rear bolts, you need to remove the stock bumper if you have it, to get clearance to work on removing them.

hth
charles
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  #23  
Old September 10th, 2004, 01:59 PM
alaskajgg
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lawrence e nudson
1995 D-90 sw nas 11of 500
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Location: nikiski, alaska,usa
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Thanks Charles , Those tap sizes will really help me. All my stuff is SAE and haven't had much experiance with Metric. It always frustrates me trying to find the right size metric wrench or socket to fit since I have been an aircraft mechanic the last 40 yrs. I'm used to just looking at the nut or bolt and seeing that it's a 1/2 or 3/8ths etc. Does that torsion bar stay attached to the skid plate and just swivel down when you lower the plate ?I want to ask Yousef Twisted 90 ,if he has a digital camera he can take a photo of his access panel he made in the floor to get to the pump or give me some measurements from the side and back to fix the position of the hole cut out. Thanks Larry
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  #24  
Old September 10th, 2004, 03:39 PM
BarryO
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Barry O'Mahony
97 D-90 SW LE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
When (not if ) you break the rear bolts, you need to remove the stock bumper if you have it, to get clearance to work on removing them.
I didn't, I got aircraft (long) drill bits instead.

It helps to use a dremel to flatten the broken bolt before you try the center punch.

If you try an EasyOut and it breaks, you won't be able to drill it out. The hardened steel is too tough. I used a small carbide grinder on the Dremel to remove the broken EasyOut piece, and then just drilled the sucker out and followed up with a tap.

Before dropping the tank entirely, you can first drop it a couple of inches, reach in and unplug the fuel pump connector, and measure for voltage right at the pump itself. You don't need to disconnect any hoses to do this, so it's the first thing to try. It's alot easier to so this with the left rear tire removed. Once you loosen the skid plate bolts, you can slip a couple of tie-down straps between the tank and the skid plate, and attach them to the chassis to hold up the tank.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by alaskajgg
Does that torsion bar stay attached to the skid plate and just swivel down when you lower the plate ?
No, undo the 4 bolts and swing it out of the way if you end up needing to remove the tank.
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  #25  
Old September 10th, 2004, 08:02 PM
alaskajgg
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lawrence e nudson
1995 D-90 sw nas 11of 500
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Thanks Barry O, good info to know .I'm starting to defuel now.

Follow-up Post:

HOORAY! I have a running fuel pump and my Defender has is alive again ready to roll to Arizona. The last try before I statrted o drop the tank I tapped into the white /purp wire as close to the tank as I couild reach and got no voltage ,yet I had good power at the inertia switch plug in the same wire . I then tapped in back by the right tail light harness and still no juice there. I then grabbed a long piece of scrap wire jumpered from the inertia switch to the pump wire and the pump ran perfectly and the D-90 started right up.I have an open ,not to ground( or should I say earth on this beast ) somewhere from the inertia switch to the fuel tank. I'm just going to run a new wire and not try to find the break.This web site has been great and I'm glad to meet all you guys that have been valuable help. looking forward to spending more time on the other threads than just my problem . Thanks much Larry. I'd like about 10 smilely faces now. .
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  #26  
Old September 11th, 2004, 12:07 AM
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Mike Hippert
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94 D-90 Grinding Rover
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Like this? congrats!
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  #27  
Old September 11th, 2004, 03:02 AM
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rover4x4
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Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
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I am not sure if this was said but its not a"torsion" bar its a sway bar. If this has been said MY B
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  #28  
Old September 11th, 2004, 03:47 AM
alaskajgg
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lawrence e nudson
1995 D-90 sw nas 11of 500
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Your right Philip ,at the time I was so stressed with my problem I couldn't even think of the proper name for that bar. larry
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  #29  
Old January 29th, 2005, 05:54 PM
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Matt Klapmust
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Matthew Klapmust
'94 D90 ST
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Figured I would bring back this thread relating to fuel pump relays.

Need help accessing the fuel pump relay on my 94 D-90.

First question; where the heck is it located?
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  #30  
Old January 29th, 2005, 06:03 PM
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Phil
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The fuel pump relay is on the passenger side, lower dash, behind a/c fascia (if you have a/c), just to the left of the ECM. It's a pain in the a** to get to if you have a/c.
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  #31  
Old January 30th, 2005, 12:18 PM
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Brian B
94 ST
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I pretty sure it's the relay connected to the blue connector.
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  #32  
Old January 30th, 2005, 11:10 PM
bjenk
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Brian Jenkinson
1994 D90
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Bought my relay from thepartsbin.com. $9.95. Thought it would help. LR wants way too much...
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  #33  
Old September 18th, 2006, 10:26 AM
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rover4x4
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Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
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does anyone know the part number for the silver relay under the passenger seat. bosch XXXXXXX????? thanks.
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