Fuel Pump Relay - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 15th, 2010, 03:29 PM
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Fuel Pump Relay

Hey all,

Defender not starting. Not the battery. Engine definitely getting a spark. Ran chocking about 100 feet and died. Seems like no fuel to the engine.

The actual fuel sender unit at the tank is only 3-4 years old - I am hoping I don't have to drop the tank and replace that. Last time this happened it was the fuel pump relay - and Treasured Motor cars figured it out.

I now know where the relays are under the passenger seat. I have two Relays side by side - both identical. Figured before I go back to Treasured, I would try this solution myself. Treasured said that almost all Rovers during that period use the same Bosch Relay - I might be able to get it locally.

Questions:
1) Should I start calling around local, or just call Rover's North or British Atlantic

2) One Relay is the Fuel Pump, what does the other one do? Which is which? Does it matter if I guess?

3) I tried to unplug one, and could not get it apart. How to get the relay off? Do I need to pry them off with a screwdriver? There must be some trick

Thanks,

Flagg
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  #2  
Old June 15th, 2010, 03:46 PM
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Search "silver relay" or "silver relays"
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  #3  
Old June 15th, 2010, 04:21 PM
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Ok........I am looking starting to search those threads - THANKS.

On thing I don't see is how to unplug it? I pulled pretty hard. Do I need a screwdriver to pry apart? Is there a trick?

Thanks,

Flagg
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  #4  
Old June 15th, 2010, 04:45 PM
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Probably a bit corroded. Pull harder. You can pry with a screw driver, but discconect the battery first.
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  #5  
Old June 15th, 2010, 09:25 PM
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Got it. Thanks. Just pull harder. I will let you know what this ends up being when I get the truck running!!!! This is the longest my D90 has ever been down for the count.........I miss driving it

Flagg
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  #6  
Old June 16th, 2010, 08:49 PM
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On the 95 D90 I think you can get away with a hella light relay. Just look at the diagram on the relay itself. They are 5 bucks at discount auto. I was stranded once and then kept a couple under the seat. At least this way you won't have to buy the more expensive ones to see if that does the trick.
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Old June 17th, 2010, 12:19 AM
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The normal relays allow power to the stuff with the ignition off. They will make the truck run but you have to unplug them when you stop.
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  #8  
Old July 8th, 2010, 09:44 AM
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UPDATE:

OK...........having same problem. Now have new belts, hoses, plugs, wires, rotor, have checked ignition timing, pressure test on fuel lines, etc. Decided it was time for a tune up. Rotor was the cause of my starting problem. Car ran great for a couple weeks.

Now it is not starting again.

What I discovered is that the 7.5 amp fuse (#20 - FUEL PUMP) is now blowing when I start the truck. I had a handful of the fuses. Sometimes it will start. Sometimes it will blow the fuse. I can not trust it right now.

I need to track down this electrical issue. Gary Landis, my local mechanic is going to pull the fuse panel today and see if anything is obvious (like worn off insulation from that fuse rubbing bare metal). He will try to track the wire to the cut off switch in the engine.

If he can not find the problem, it gets towed back to Treasured Motor cars.

If it ends up being the fuel pump and they have to drop the tank (again), I am really contemplating trying to have a whole cut in the body and a plate put in the cargo bed like the old series. This way if the fuel pump has to be accessed again it will be easy and not involve dropping the tank. ANYONE DONE THIS? The Fuel pump is only a few years old........I am hoping it is not involved with that.

Any ideas?

Flagg
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  #9  
Old July 10th, 2010, 12:56 PM
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melt fuse

I have the same problem. When I start the car, it burns the fuel pump fuse. But, interestingly, when I turn key half way, and pump start working before ignition, it is fine. I can do it all day long. And when I go further and turn it more to start ignition, it burns the fuse.
It is not a pump issue.
Let me know< when you find out the real issue.
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  #10  
Old July 10th, 2010, 02:20 PM
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you are supposed to upgrade to a 10amp fuse (from 7.5amp) for the fuel pump if it still blows, then you have a short somewhere
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