Fuel pump problems 3.0 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 21st, 2015, 07:15 PM
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Fuel pump problems 3.0

I'm writing this from the mobile app, waiting for a tow truck... Fuel pump is dead for, what is about to be the third time now in less than a year. The original was replaced, New pump installed, worked awesome then the new one died. Took it to a rover shop in CT, paid for them to fix the problem. The pin wasn't making complete contact, burning out the pin on the housing and killing the pump. Replaced THAT pump and everything was fine until this morning after I drove to the gym. Truck fired up no problems, no codes. I don't know where to go from here. I can't keep dropping $400 on fuel pumps every few months (because of the connector). The problem with the pin was supposed to be fixed. How much of the connection can be truly fixed. I'm no longer in CT so I can't take it back and have him fix it again. Currently in Silverdale ,WA. Sorry for any grammatical errors.
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  #2  
Old April 21st, 2015, 07:16 PM
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Ping Josh. He collects dead fuel pumps also.
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  #3  
Old April 21st, 2015, 08:23 PM
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Has the fuel filter been replaced?
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  #4  
Old April 21st, 2015, 08:27 PM
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I would double check the grounds. It is a simple connection also. Make sure that the wires are not fried and grounding out. Some times the wires get corroded on the inside and may not be conducting enough current. Does, did, the pump cycle correctly. After you turn on the key but don't start the truck the pump should go off after the fuel rail is pressurized.
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Old April 21st, 2015, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christocat View Post
I'm writing this from the mobile app, waiting for a tow truck... Fuel pump is dead for, what is about to be the third time now in less than a year. The original was replaced, New pump installed, worked awesome then the new one died. Took it to a rover shop in CT, paid for them to fix the problem. The pin wasn't making complete contact, burning out the pin on the housing and killing the pump. Replaced THAT pump and everything was fine until this morning after I drove to the gym. Truck fired up no problems, no codes. I don't know where to go from here. I can't keep dropping $400 on fuel pumps every few months (because of the connector). The problem with the pin was supposed to be fixed. How much of the connection can be truly fixed. I'm no longer in CT so I can't take it back and have him fix it again. Currently in Silverdale ,WA. Sorry for any grammatical errors.
How did you diagnose the fuel pump?

What symptoms do you have?

What 'pin' are you talking about?
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  #6  
Old April 22nd, 2015, 10:26 PM
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Apologies for not responding sooner, we just moved to WA/ new Duty Station/Job. I haven't had time to look at the truck since it got towed yesterday and just got home from work a few mins ago. I diagnosed the fuel pump (While it may not BE the actual fuel pump, its something associated with it) because taking the key to the "II" position on the ignition the fuel pump fails to kick on, a problem that I have had twice before. First one was a replacement of the original pump. which you could barely hear run and caused the 90 to stall. Replacement pump you could clearly hear start. When the second pump failed I took it to Classic 4X4 in CT because I wanted to solve the problem( and it was -12 degrees out and getting ready to transfer). On the his Service Description he wrote Connector has slight wiggle on fuel pump Harness. This caused the power terminal on fuel pump to burn/plastic around it (pictured, fuel pump #2). He repaired the connector and installed the fuel pump.
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  #7  
Old April 23rd, 2015, 08:38 PM
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Spent the last few hours on the interwebs looking for anything other than the fuel pump being bad. No Codes. Fuses Good. Visual inspection of the Fuel pump relay and plug (even though through lots of reading this is rarely the issue). Inertial fuel switch pressed. Still no noise indicating the fuel pump is alive. The last and final thing on my list is to drop the full fuel tank and inspect the connector and fuel pump itself.
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  #8  
Old April 24th, 2015, 09:34 PM
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Is there any way to test the fuel pump realy for a 97 Defender. Other than that im going to drop the tank in the morning to see if the fuel pump housing burnt up again.
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Old April 25th, 2015, 10:33 AM
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Had a very similar issue. Replaced pump three times - all pumps purchased from AB. On the third pump, had it installed by repair shop. The shop determined pumps were the issue. AB was not going to replace but shop worked with them & they agreed pump was the issue.

Problem was the boot inside pump (used as a filter) was being sucked into the valve causing the pump to over work which would then blow the pump. The boot is cheaply attached to value. The boot was removed & all is still good.
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  #10  
Old April 25th, 2015, 11:56 PM
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I dropped the tank today...And it was exactly what I thought it was. The pump is fried as well as my Purple/White pin. Is this the "filter" you were talking about? Thanks for the input on this, I hope this is the problem, I can't keep buying these every few months, the rest of the truck needs attention. The Northeast had definitely taken a toll on the 90.

Now that I know the Purple/White pin is fried, can I replace this? Or do you have to replace the entire housing? I dont see any of these pins on AB or RN... or is this an Autozone/Napa adventure...or worse Unobtainium.
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  #11  
Old April 26th, 2015, 08:52 AM
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Yes - that is the boot. Most likely what is causing your issues.

Not sure on pin source. Perhaps call AB and/or RN - best option.
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  #12  
Old April 26th, 2015, 08:55 PM
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Thanks, how long has your 90 been running w/o the boot?
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  #13  
Old April 27th, 2015, 06:54 AM
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You can find those connectors on Ebay UK with out much problem. That connector can be taken apart so that you can re-pin it. When you do it make sure that your wires are not corroded on the inside. If water gets on the inside of the wire sheath it will corrode the copper strands and will limit the voltage. Also trace the ground back and make sure that you have a good connection.
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  #14  
Old April 27th, 2015, 10:05 AM
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Running for about a year. No issues so far. If you have a clean tank, you should have no issues. My repair shop stated, pumps have gone through a design change & not for the better. AB stated this as well when my repair shop worked with them on the issue. Personally think it's due to manufacture in a means to keep cost down - not a good idea.

Hope this helps. Take care.
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  #15  
Old April 28th, 2015, 08:39 PM
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Going to buy the pump soon, but i need to make sure the pins are right.... any confirmation that these are correct for the female side of the connector?

4 Way Female Econoseal Electrical Wiring Multi Connector - Genuine AMP Product | eBay
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  #16  
Old May 18th, 2015, 12:38 AM
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Electrical Halp for Noob

I know I need to learn but, i need the help know so I can figure out what's REALLY wrong with the 90. Before I get my pump I have to find out if i'm getting .5 volts to the pump and proper ground resistance. How do I properly check this, Im electrically ignorant. Does positive lead to White/Purple on the the connector or the green (WP to Fuel pump relay or Green to ECU)? negative lead of the multimeter to the ground? The WP wire is the one that keeps burning out the pumps.. Again excuse the electrical ignorance, i'm still learning.
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  #17  
Old May 18th, 2015, 07:58 AM
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If you don't already have it, download a free copy of the defender electrical library. Very helpful for tracing anything electrical.
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  #18  
Old July 8th, 2015, 10:45 PM
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Update/Sad Face

So, the problem was fixed. The pins on the female connector were the problem. It was repinned, new female connector installed and fired right up....that was a month ago.

I was driving home to get lunch today and got a check engine light on the way. P0420/30 fault for the second time in a month and cleared the fault in the driveway. Went to start the car after clearing the code and the fuel pump didn't kick on, but did before I cleared the fault. Can the OBD port or reader cause issues for the ECU?


I checked the Engine compartment fuse, Fuel pump relay was replaced last month, dropped the tank partially and no burnt pins/connector. Depressed the inertia switch. Read lots of old forum post on 97 fuel pump issues. What am I missing other than checking voltage/grounds? Im tired of writing about this, as you all probably are of seeing it.
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  #19  
Old July 10th, 2015, 06:14 PM
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Bump?
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  #20  
Old July 11th, 2015, 08:38 PM
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So after a lot of research I have narrowed the problem down to the immobilizer or ECM. I was reading this thread: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...art-27012.html and Leastonce wrote "A common way to bypass immobilizer circuits is to disconnect the battery, turn the ignition switch on and then reconnect the battery .. This is so the alarm doesn't immobilize when you are driving."
Went down stairs to the garage, tried this and the truck started right up, i left the 90 running for about five minutes. Turned off the truck, started it again the second time, let it sit and turned it off again to put everything in the 90 back together. Went to turn the 90 on again to drive it around the block and the fuel pump wouldnt start again. Tried to do the battery bypass and now that doesn't work. The manual does not have anything except a small blurb about the immobilizer. Whats the next move? Is it a bad ECM/immobilizer or bad wire? Any recommendations?
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