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  #1  
Old November 27th, 2012, 11:44 AM
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Fuel Filters 83 ROW 110

I know there is one in the canister, next to the pump on the frame rail. Are there any other filters in the fuel system? A sock on the pick up a screen in the pump etc? Still picking up a bit of a miss and since the timing is spot on the plugs look good and I just changed the canister filter, I thought I would ask.

3.5 V8 carbed
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  #2  
Old November 27th, 2012, 11:57 AM
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on some there is a cage on the pick up tube. Have you done a compression or vacuum checks yet ?

Did you go with factory setting for timing (some what retarded from optimal)? Is point gap correct ?
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Old November 27th, 2012, 12:43 PM
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Factory spec on the timing, points dwell and gap is good.

Compression check is tonight, I'll have to add checking the vacuum to the list as well. Pulled plugs last night checked the gap and it was good. The coloration was spot on by the spark plug coloration chart.

The more I think on it, I bet the compression check is going to tell the tale. I'm willing to bet the 3.5 is just well past it's prime at this point.
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Old November 27th, 2012, 02:19 PM
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the are known for wiping cams. Thats why I asked about vacuum.
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Old November 27th, 2012, 02:20 PM
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PT said he thought the cam could be suspect so, I'll put a vac gauge on it tonight and see what I get.

What kind of Vac should it be pulling?
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Old November 27th, 2012, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyRover View Post
PT said he thought the cam could be suspect so, I'll put a vac gauge on it tonight and see what I get.

What kind of Vac should it be pulling?
13lbs @ idle. What you want to see is consistency. If the needle moves thats indicative of a bad cylinder.
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Old November 27th, 2012, 03:24 PM
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Thanks Doug, I'll post up the results.

By bad cylinder do you mean the cam isn't closing the valves properly or do you mean blown head gasket?
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Old November 27th, 2012, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyRover View Post
Thanks Doug, I'll post up the results.

By bad cylinder do you mean the cam isn't closing the valves properly or do you mean blown head gasket?
The opposite, not opening the valves far enough to get strong combustion. A compression check will tell you if the valves and rings are sealing well but can't measure intake suction. Vacuum measures intake suction. You read into/infer from that. If the gauge flickers then you have one or more wiped intake lobes. It doesn't matter which since if you have one then you know you need a cam. The cam moves the lifter which lifts the push rod which moves the valve train. If the lobe is worn the end result is the valve doesn't open very far and the resulting loss of suction/vacuum will show on the gauge. Remember vaccum is greatest @ idle. Revving the engine will make vacuum drop.

Hope that helps
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Old November 27th, 2012, 03:51 PM
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Makes perfect sense. At least the cam shouldn't be bad to do on it if the compression checks out. There isn't a lot on the front of the motor and radiator looks dead ass simple to pull.
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Old November 27th, 2012, 08:39 PM
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My wife is picking up the vacuum tester but if the last few miles home are any indicator the cam has had it.

I popped the hood, when I got home and was looking around and I think the compression test won't turn out any better, the amount of oil leaking out of the air filter and smoke coming from the breathers does not instill confidence in the condition of the rings.

I think the final judgement will be the motor has had it. I think I will be taking the Saab to work tomorrow glad that guy didn't show up to buy it yesterday like he was supposed to.
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Old November 27th, 2012, 09:24 PM
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damn. You went from slight miss to engine is toast mighty quick

Not sure how your engine is set up. Didn't you say it has an edlebrock and 4bbl ?
On Trey's 83 I removed the egr stuff and screwed short bolts into the ports on the heads. I then removed the stock air cleaner that is half the size of the engine along with all associated plumbing. Now its just the two stromburgs with K&N's on them. Where are your oil leaks ? Quick easy test is to pull the dipstick while its running and see if the dipstick tube has pressure when you put your finger over the tube.
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Old November 27th, 2012, 09:48 PM
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It has pressure at the dipstick and a jet of smoke coming out there as well. I checked that earlier... Honestly Doug, I had a feeling the motor was shot about 3 hours into the ride home. I had already started looking at swap options the day after I got back. I had hoped it would last the winter but, that just isn't in the cards it appears.

It has the edelbrock with a holley 2 barrel carb. The stromburgs are in a box on the shelf in the garage.
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Old November 27th, 2012, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyRover View Post
It has pressure at the dipstick and a jet of smoke coming out there as well. I checked that earlier... Honestly Doug, I had a feeling the motor was shot about 3 hours into the ride home. I had already started looking at swap options the day after I got back. I had hoped it would last the winter but, that just isn't in the cards it appears.

It has the edelbrock with a holley 2 barrel carb. The stromburgs are in a box on the shelf in the garage.
Yep she's done.
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Old November 27th, 2012, 11:08 PM
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Well the vacuum gauge reported about .5 pound jumps at idle.

At idle she was holding plus or minus .5 pounds @ 17 in hg of vacuum.

Although spending a little time with the air cleaner off I noticed some issues with the install. The one fuel feed line is leaking a bit and is capped off with a piece of fuel hose (I think) with a bolt hose clamped in it. A vacuum cap was a piece of vacuum line with a screw in it. The breather line was T'd together at the rear of the air cleaner using electrical tape to hold it together. A stack of washers to make the bolt work at the Thermostat housing. The EGR points on the heads had the lines cut off and crimped.... The intake gasket that was just put in before I picked it up is leaking coolant and oil at the back. Almost makes me wonder if the issue isn't with a bad attempt at installing the manifold and carb.

I don't know why I typed 2 barrel earlier it's a 4 barrel.
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Old November 28th, 2012, 09:35 AM
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Well 17 ihg is good but the .5 jumps are bad. What did your compression test reveal ? Do you have the ability to do a leak down test to see how long pressure remains in the cyl on the compression stroke ? Its an easy job to pull that 4bbl manifold and pull the heads for a vavle job but if the rings are weak there is no point. Back when I was building engines for folks BMW track cars I used Deves rings when the owner couldn't afford to rebore and buy new pistons. Those rings worked wonders to bring back tired engines.

http://www.deves.com/devesrings/cars...ANGE_ROVER.php

Cost about $150

While the install items you mention aren't ideal if they don't leak.....

When driving it does it smoke badly when you downshift ?
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Old November 28th, 2012, 03:34 PM
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Doing the compression test now will post in a bit the numbers
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Old November 28th, 2012, 03:42 PM
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Doug funny you should mention Deves rings, we did the same thing in England but with Cords rings
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Old November 28th, 2012, 05:12 PM
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It does smoke a bit between shifts not sure if that because of the cold air or engine.

The results of the compression test.

1. 140
2. 80
3. 105
4. 120
5. 118
6. 45
7. 108
8. 120

I think it's done dealing
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