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  #1  
Old February 16th, 2006, 04:42 PM
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Front Vent Flap Seals

I have my D90 in the shop right now for new front rotors. This shop came highly recommended (Treasured Motorcars - Reistertown, MD) by a fellow 2 Land Rover owner.........

I have been having leaking into the passenger side footwell - see post below - so I asked them to take a look at it........for opinions.......

The mechanic really believes the leaking on the passenger floor is being caused by the front vents (I still think it is the door). He believes water is leaking through the vents, down the firewall, and on to the floor. The front vents seals are in real need of replacement –which I knew. He recommends going with the original D90 vent seals. It is a big job in labor.
Parts are only $44……………parts/labor is $390.



I have decided not to do this at this time.


I know I need to replace these flaps someday. I have looked at links on how to do it.........it does look like a tough, time consuming job.


Could the vent seals really be causing, or adding to my leaking problem? The tray behind the vents is BONE dry........


When I replace these vent seals, is it such a pain that it is really worth the $346 in labor???

Thanks, Flagg
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  #2  
Old February 16th, 2006, 05:05 PM
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I haven't done new seals yet, but will be doing it this summer when I replace the vent handles. But supposdly using Series III seals instead of the Defender type seals will result in much better sealing when closed.

There is a writeup in the 'custom mods' forum under 'vent seal replacement' that goes about how to do it and what the difference between the seal types is.

-Hans
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  #3  
Old February 16th, 2006, 05:36 PM
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Hummmmmm.........I saw that write up.

My shop said they used to do that, but had constant problems with getting the vents to close with the handles - leading to more broken handles....

They therefore recommended using just the D90 seals.

I will have to read this link more carefully and see if this is a job I can do my self.........

Flagg
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  #4  
Old February 16th, 2006, 06:11 PM
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If you really feel that you want the SIII seals then tell Trevor that's what you want. I've know him for a couple of years now and he and the shop have been pretty accomedating. By the way if you aren't comming on the trip on the 25th you should deffinantly try. we all ahve fun picking on Trevor when he gets stuck up to his doors in mud.
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  #5  
Old February 16th, 2006, 07:34 PM
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What is this big trip on the 25th. I am relatively new to this site.......but I have looked for events and am still not sure what is going on, or where?? Is there a place to look for local events??

Flagg
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  #6  
Old February 16th, 2006, 09:12 PM
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A couple of us are going up to www.rauschcreekoffroadpark.com on the 25th for a day trip. Look in the trip section of the site for trips. Some are local some aren't. if you are looking at more localish trips check out www.discoweb.org and look for anything with ECP in it under the trip section. That is a group of us from all over Va mostly that go and play in the George Washington National Forset.
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  #7  
Old February 17th, 2006, 08:33 AM
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It is the vent seal-old foam, replace with older version- rubber, Yes very time consuming, but worth the effort.
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  #8  
Old February 17th, 2006, 08:58 AM
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Bert. I did the Ser III seals. THey are actually ruber not foam like the d-90 ones. They seal a lot better. They are about $60 for the 2 of them
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  #9  
Old February 18th, 2006, 05:19 PM
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I didn't even thinkt the foam ones were still available?

The Main Problem I had converting was the need for a friend to help close the vents and keeping them closed. Once the rubber sets up they work fine. 60 buck and a couple of hours.

EwS
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  #10  
Old February 18th, 2006, 08:20 PM
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I replaced my vent seals last summer. The time consuming part was getting the vents open far enough to get to the bolts that hold the handle mechanism to the vent door. Mine were corroded and had not been lubricated in eons, so it took me awhile to get the hinges to allow full extension. The trick is to get the vent door all the way open. Next, undo the bolt on the back of the vent. Then, pull the pins and it comes right off.

Plan on using a penetrating oil such as PB Blaster or Gunk Liquid Wrench.

If your vents move to full open, I suggest doing this yourself. That labor charge is nuts in my opinion.

I used the D-90 vent seal rather than the Series III seal. The seal after replacement was mucho bueno. Interior noise and drafts were greatly reduced, and they are water tight.
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  #11  
Old February 20th, 2006, 11:00 AM
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Thanks for all the advice........it is definitely something that I will be looking into. Between the leaking and air infiltration.....and condition of the seals - it is definitly something that needs to be addressed.......

Jeff - You seem to imply that this is not as hard of a process as I believed.......

Flagg
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  #12  
Old February 20th, 2006, 11:52 AM
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Jeff Sturgis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flagg
Jeff - You seem to imply that this is not as hard of a process as I believed.......

Flagg
It is always easier after you have done it and someone else faces the problem.

In all seriousness, look at the cowl vents and see if you can get them to move to the full open position so that they are out horizontally as much as possible. Where I burnt the majority of my time doing the seal replacement was getting the hinge unfrozen to the point where I could actually access the bolts. If your cowl flaps have full range of motion, you are a long way towards being able to do this yourself. Your dealer was talking about $356 worth or labor, which is about 3.5 hours if they are buring the customer's money at the normal service hour rate. My labor rate when working on my own truck is just the price of a pot of coffee, so the cost/benefit equation is tipped in my favor.

The vents are hinged at the top with pins. You can pinch the splayed end of the pins together and slide them out. Give it a shot just to see how it works. There are two bolts that attach the hinge to the cowl vent on the back side. The bolts and the hinge pins are the only fastening items to deal with.

Once the vents are off, it is just a matter of cleaning off the old perished foam rubber and getting the surface preped and clean enough to get the new gasket to adhere correctly. The vent gaskets have a self adhesive backing, so you are set.

Like I mentioned, the key is how your hinge mechanism is working to full open. Lubricate the hinge points to make the task easier.

It may be helpful for someone else who has done this to chime in and let you know how long it took them to do it and what their recommendations are.

Good luck with it, and post again if you tackle it and run into issues.
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  #13  
Old February 20th, 2006, 01:03 PM
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At the risk of being too much of a DIY'er, and saving some bucks: clean out the old stuff, lay down a GENEROUS bead of 3M weatherstripping (from a tube), mist it with water, cover it with celophane wrap and close it firmly. After it cures, remove celophane and trip excess with a utility knife. I'm sure you can use the rest of the tube elsewhere.

I see RN has the rubber set at about $40 so maybe it's cheap enough to go with them.
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  #14  
Old February 20th, 2006, 02:25 PM
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Jeff - Thanks for all the advice on this.

I know that my vents do not go close to verticle with the handle - but I have not tried pulling them up. Lubing the hinge is a good idea first.

As soon as the weather warms up a bit, I am going to give this a go. I will see how at least the first part would go - as you recomended.

Did you have to take the lower roll bar off below the window? It seems like this might not be a requirement.........

First thing I must do is see if the hinges go verticle. Thanks for all the help and advice.

Flagg
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  #15  
Old February 20th, 2006, 05:14 PM
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Jeff Sturgis
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Flagg,

Yes, take the lower horizontal bar from the roll cage out of your way. It is awkward to keep working around it if you do not. It is only two bolts and nuts per side, and you need all the space you can obtain so get a socket or wrench on the back side of the cowl vent.

I would get some PB Blaster for the hinges, squirt them up a few days before you attempt the job, and make sure that it can work all the way through its range smoothly. Once I had them working correctly the difference pre versus post was like night and day.

Look at it this way, anything that does not require a ROVACOM hook up at the dealer to reset fault codes is something you can handle.

Cheers.
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