Front radius arms bushing swap, how to jack ? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 29th, 2011, 04:28 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Front radius arms bushing swap, how to jack ?

For those who have been there already, if I remove both front radius arms so in can press out then press in new bushings, should I support vehicle on chassis or on front axle ?
My bet is on chassis but there is probably something I'm not taking in consideration.
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  #2  
Old September 29th, 2011, 04:37 PM
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definitely by the chassis
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Old September 29th, 2011, 05:12 PM
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Chassis for sure.
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  #4  
Old September 30th, 2011, 01:42 AM
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steve
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Chassis, no question.
If the axle moves a bit is is not a problem. If you have problems getting it lined up use some ratcheting tie downs to move it back into place.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 07:25 AM
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The chassis, once you remove the RA there is no support.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 08:41 AM
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Tom Rowe
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A pair of jack stands on the chassis horns right behind the bumper.
I prefer removing just one radius arm at a time, but if you have take them some place to have the bushings R&R'd then you can do both at the same time.
Never-Seeze on the new bushing sleeves and bolts. Refitting is a lot easier if you cut about a 1/4 of the length off an old bolt and taper it to use as a guide pin. Insert it from the nut side, then insert the new bolt as normal to knock out the guide pin. A pipe wrench is handy for twisting it if the radius arm is cocked slightly
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  #7  
Old September 30th, 2011, 08:41 AM
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chassis or both; Caution! While working on my diff, having first to remove/loosen my SG 3-link, I was surprised or maybe lucky to see my entire axel pivot forward. I was not under the car, however, it could have easily dropped...I'd still be under there; flowers on the bonnet. I had supported both the chassis and the axel, but being careless, had more support under the axel; the spring tension was enough to pivot/move the d-90 forward on the chassis jacks...it did make for more working room, but it could have ended very badly...not sure how many times I had previously used the same practices without incident.
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Old September 30th, 2011, 09:15 AM
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Chassis, obviously, but I also put the removed tires under the truck so if it falls it can't go too far.
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  #9  
Old September 30th, 2011, 10:21 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Chassis, obviously, but I also put the removed tires under the truck so if it falls it can't go too far.
I was thinking about leaving the tires on, eventually, and prop the chassis just high enough to take the pressure off the wheels.
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  #10  
Old September 30th, 2011, 11:49 AM
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It's a lot easier if you remove the wheels. If you do one side at a time the axle won't rotate more than fractionally.
I also place jack stands under the axle and use my floor jack under the radius arm to lower it and lift it back in to place.
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  #11  
Old September 30th, 2011, 11:49 AM
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The second thing you have to do is support the axle using jackstands. The axle weighs a metric ****load even without tires and can easily overwhelm you. Maybe if you are on steroids or Jean Valjean it's not an issue, but once you disconnect the driveshaft and even one radius arm the entire axle assembly is just dead weight.

Tires should be off the axle before you do the work. Unless you have very small tires, you won't be able to get far enough under the truck to work on it - without having to jack the truck up into the sky. Also it makes the axle weight worse than it already is.

For reassembly - if you can bolt the radius arms to the axle before you connect it back to the frame, do it. We did it the other way and aligning the axle to fit to the radius arm is difficult.
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Old October 4th, 2011, 10:57 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Old bushings out, new bushings in, we did made a cup/tool
to push the new bushing in without risk.

Made a mistake ordering new nuts, it's m16 FINE THREAD,
so when you order, be sure it's a 1.5 pitch (not a 2.0).

Tomorrow I am putting this thing together.

Is there a left and a right side for the radius arms ?

Next is panhard
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