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  #1  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 04:42 PM
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barry f
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Front Brakes and HUb Reseal

I just brought my 90 in for the 60 k service. I was told the following:

BOTH FRONT AXLE SWIVEL HUBS LEAKING LUBRICANT, THE RIGHT SIDE IS EXCESSIVE
STRIP & RESEAL BOTH FRONT AXLE HUBS
& RESEAL
( 3HOURS PER SIDE )
FRONT BRAKE PADS WORN 75% & ROTORS
WORN BEYOND MINIMUM THICKNESS
--- REPLACE FRONT BRAKE ROTORS &
PADS , WITH AXLE HUBS STRIPPED

All of this including the 60k service comes to $2000. The service alone is 760. Should I tell them no and do the work myself?

Would it be hard?
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  #2  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 06:45 PM
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Marc
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only for te front?? much cheaper to do yourself if you did all 4, and not that hard to do.
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  #3  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 06:52 PM
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You could do the 60k yourself and the brakes/swivels for about half of that, of course by the time youve done it yourself the 2k might have been worth it.
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  #4  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 07:42 PM
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1. You could have done the 60k yourself.
2. Not sure what a swivel hub is. Swivel ball seal or hub seal, they are different things.
3. Yes, DIY.
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  #5  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 07:44 PM
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why not just drain the swivels and fill with grease? Then they won't leak. The brakes are pretty straightforward. I just did mine front and back and i had never done brakes before. What's in a 60K service? Just a tun-up? If so, plugs and wires are super easy too.

Or, maybe consider an independent shop if you want it done professionally.
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  #6  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 08:02 PM
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Depends on how much free time you have and whether you have done it before. I did it once but will not likely do it again.

That's an almost all day job for most guys even with the correct tools, ie air tools, drifts, etc. If that price includes price of rotors, pads, seals, etc......I would let them do it.

It is not difficult for you to do, just time consuming. It is fun and very educational as you really understand how the whole thing comes together and works as a unit.
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  #7  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 08:10 PM
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Do it yourself... It will be fun and rewarding.
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  #8  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 08:21 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Just sell some boost wheels and pay for the service

Ok seriously, I say DIY. You have done harder things on your 110 iirc.
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  #9  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 08:28 PM
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I had them do the service as I didn't want to deal with draining all the fluid (rad, oil, diffs). As for the front brakes and hubs I am assuming the swivel housings are leaking as I still have the original oil in them.

So what do I need:
Rotors
Pads
Anything else

Follow-up Post:

swivel grease?

seals?
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  #10  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 08:44 PM
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You may want to replace the swivel housing to the new style "teflon" ones.

Here is a great link on a step by step how too with tons of great pictures.......

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5601
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  #11  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 09:34 PM
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I'd just add that the price isn't too bad if they are billing you 3 hrs for each side - that means that around 600 of the 2000 is labor. 1400 for parts makes sense even though they are getting $$$ for their brake parts. The main thing here is that swivel balls are expensive by any standard - so if you are getting swivel balls and everything else for 2k, then the price is not too bad, though it could be had cheaper elsewhere. The first time you replace everything from the axle-tube on out is a real learning experience and it takes several hours and sometimes several sessions for you to ensure you have all the parts and necessary tools on-hand. After you do it a couple times, and have sense for setting the swivel pre-load, then you can do one side in 45 minutes to an hour, assuming no bearing races have to be changed out.
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  #12  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 09:37 PM
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No way they are replacing the balls.
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  #13  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 11:54 PM
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The estimate includes 760 for the 60 k service
the other 1400 is for the front brakes (rotors and pads) and a swivel hub reseal kit installed.
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  #14  
Old December 3rd, 2009, 12:05 AM
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Barry, I just did this job myself.

It was a pain and did take all day -- actually had my truck on jacks for a week waiting for parts.

Get the hub seal kit from RN - $7.90.

You'll want to repack your bearings while swapping out the rotors so pick up a tub of grease. You'll probably need to swap out a few bearings and will more than likely screw up a race while trying to remove it. You can get new bearings at NAPA.

You can get high quality rotors from Autopart International for under $200 for all four (for you $100 for two). I ran with the solid rotors that were cast with the holes and not drilled.

You can get pads from AI as well but I don't recommend the ceramics.

Other than that, blue loctite, big channel locks or a 52 hub nut socket and a box of latex gloves if you're going to mess with the bearings.
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  #15  
Old December 3rd, 2009, 12:07 AM
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It is really quite easy, you will save a bunch of $$ and you will be able to do it again in the future.

I really think it is worth your trouble to learn. It is a land rover.

just my 2c.
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  #16  
Old December 3rd, 2009, 01:33 AM
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Thats fine. I am not so concerned with the rotors. I bought a hub reseal kit for the 110 and did it. Granted it was only the outer bearings. I have the hub tool and lock tight and the truck is fine. My real concern is for this swivel housing reseal they are talking about. Not sure what that entails or what I need. I was under the impression that if I drained the oil and put in grease the problem would be solved.
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  #17  
Old December 3rd, 2009, 10:19 AM
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Go with grease. They all leak. Replacing that seal is not bad. There is mixed feelings on whether or not you should go with the split seal or not. The split seal is really easy. Getting a non-split seal on there requires removing the 7 bolts holding the swivel ball to the axle housing which is not fun.
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  #18  
Old December 3rd, 2009, 11:25 AM
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I have made my own split seals by cutting the one piece seal. I just put the split @ the top and seal any gap with right stuff.

I've also seen cases where the swivel pin pre-load is not out of spec causing movement of the swivel pin housing relative to the swivel ball, thus allowing a gap at the seal. Bringing the pre-load back into spec can sometimes solve that problem.

Haven't tried the grease yet. Though I would not hesitate to recommend it as others seem to like it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Go with grease. They all leak. Replacing that seal is not bad. There is mixed feelings on whether or not you should go with the split seal or not. The split seal is really easy. Getting a non-split seal on there requires removing the 7 bolts holding the swivel ball to the axle housing which is not fun.
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  #19  
Old December 3rd, 2009, 12:44 PM
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So do most people think the truck will be fine if I just fill the swivels with grease and just do the outer seals and new rotors and pads for now?
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  #20  
Old December 3rd, 2009, 01:14 PM
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have you looked underneath to see what exactly it is that they are referring to? Dealers are notorious for claiming that a problem exists where one really doesn't or suggesting a very pricey repair for something that is a minor nuisance at worst.

Somehow I doubt the swivels would be leaking all that much unless the balls are pitted, or something has worked loose. If you grab the wheel @ 6 and 12 o clock and try to rock it back and forth , is there any play? does the play go away when horsey boy or some other helper steps on the brakes for you?

short answer to your question yes. but you should investigate and see how bad it really is, it might be worth doing once you have the hub already off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf
So do most people think the truck will be fine if I just fill the swivels with grease and just do the outer seals and new rotors and pads for now?
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