Front blinkers stopped working - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 15th, 2013, 06:21 PM
meow
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Johnny
'87 90
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Front blinkers stopped working

What would cause both front blinkers to stop working on an '86 exmod 90?

Would a bad relay cause that?


Bulbs and fuses are good, wires near the headlight seem to all be hooked up.


Rear blinkers work fine, whether hazards or indicator stock ( blinks faster ).
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  #2  
Old September 15th, 2013, 07:48 PM
meow
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So I bought a multimeter and checked for power at the fuses for the left and right blinker with the hazards on and then with the turn signals on. No power to the left and right blinker fuses, but got a voltage reading at the hazards fuse.


Is there something that would be stopping the power coming to the fuse box?
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  #3  
Old September 15th, 2013, 08:05 PM
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Matthew Greenspan
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I assume you have wiggled the bulb inside the holder? I've had bulb issues on most every old Land Rover where the connections from the bulbs to the holder are either corroded or old and get easily bumped out.
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  #4  
Old September 15th, 2013, 08:45 PM
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Chris
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Low on blinker fluid

Refill at your local store...
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  #5  
Old September 15th, 2013, 08:46 PM
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Andrew Clarke
1986 110 CSW 200tdi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meow View Post
So I bought a multimeter and checked for power at the fuses for the left and right blinker with the hazards on and then with the turn signals on. No power to the left and right blinker fuses, but got a voltage reading at the hazards fuse.


Is there something that would be stopping the power coming to the fuse box?
Do I understand correctly that your rear indicators are working but your front ones aren't? Plus you're saying that there's no power to your fuse panel for either the left or right fuses when you turn on the indicator? As far as I know, there's no separate front/rear fuses, just left/right.

Can you hear the relay clicking when you turn on your indicators?

Do the side markers work, or are they dead like the front ones?

Do you have a test light? Try a test light on your turn signals. I don't mean offence, but since you said you bought a multimeter, I'm not sure how familiar you are with their use. If you're testing current, it might just be that your mutimeter isn't reading the change fast enough before it clicks off. A test lamp should flash with the turn signals, giving you a clearer picture of what's happening.

My vehicle's wiring is so non-stock that I don't know how the grounding is supposed to be. I have ground cables all over the place, and I don't know whether they're stock or some previous owner's addition. If all the front lights are grounded to the same place, if that ground is bad, then none of your lights are going to work. Since you're experiencing a failure with multiple lights, you need to work back to a potential single point of failure, which might be your ground.

Good luck,
- Andrew.
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  #6  
Old September 15th, 2013, 08:47 PM
meow
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Yea I checked the bulbs and sockets.

If I take the right and left fuses out, my rear blinkers still work.


Rechecked the voltage at the fuse box, for the left and right blinker with the key in and not indicating I'm getting a steady 24v. When indicating it bounces around 23-26v, but the lights still aren't working.
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  #7  
Old September 15th, 2013, 08:53 PM
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I'm having similar issues with my 110 ex mod...front passenger lights don't work but everything else does. Eager to see where this thread goes.
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  #8  
Old September 16th, 2013, 12:51 AM
meow
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Ughh I feel stupid, I confused the parking light symbol on the fuse box for the indicators.

Got it all fixed now, it ended up being bad connections with the bullet connectors, cleaned and tightened them up.

Is it worth it to just get rid of the connectors and solder the wires together?
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  #9  
Old September 16th, 2013, 08:22 AM
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Andrew Clarke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meow View Post
Ughh I feel stupid, I confused the parking light symbol on the fuse box for the indicators.

Got it all fixed now, it ended up being bad connections with the bullet connectors, cleaned and tightened them up.

Is it worth it to just get rid of the connectors and solder the wires together?
I wouldn't personally solder the wires together, if the connectors were put in at the factory. I'm not quite sure which ones you mean, but if you ever need to pull the wing off or do something like that, it will mean cutting the wires instead of just pulling apart the bullet connectors.

If you need new snap connectors, you can buy them from http://www.britishwiring.com/Bullets...ctors-s/47.htm , amongst other places.

Just think of why the connector is there, and whether it was put there by the factory or a previous owner (MOD?) before you remove it.
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