I think I have a leak from the area circled in green (picture isn't my truck). It is 75W90 for sure. It doesn't seem like it is coming from the big swivel (which i think is greased), nor is it running down from anywhere else that i can see.
Can I change this gasket without pulling the swivel housing apart? I was thinking unbolt the swivel and try to pull the axle out with it, change gasket, then slide the whole thing back in.
I have never taken the front axle on one of these apart yet so I am guessing.
Is this a common leak spot?
Should gear oil be getting that far down the axle housing?
You'll have to pull the entire stub axle/housing/etc out if you want seal that up using a gasket (since you'll need to work around the front axle/CV). However, as many of us do, you *could* just pull it out enough to clean things up and slather some Right-Stuff on there as well and not really have to pull everything out - but regardless you're going to need to disconnect the tie rod, caliper, etc anyhow so not that much more work just to slide it all the way out.
Alternatively, check to make sure those bottom bolts are tight....sometimes just snugging them up will help. I also usually put some RightStuff or blue threadlock on the stub axle bolts when I put them back in place as well.
But essentially, just drain the axle housing of 90W (otherwise a bit of it will slop everywhere), disconnect tie rod, hang the caliper, pull the 6 12-point bolts holding it on, and slider 'er out....
Sort of like this, but hopefully not in a parking lot somewhere!
Yes you can disconnect the steering/brake caliper then remove the 12pt bolts holding the entire swivel ball assembly on. Depending on the year and type of the axle dictates the seal and joint gasket. Ideally the entire assembly out of the axle (will have the axle shaft still attached) then put in the new seal and joint gasket.
The oil from the diff is traveling up the spinning axle shaft, this is normal.
I'd get new bolts as the originals will get beat removing them,britpart has a kit for both sides with threadlock already on.
The only way to remove the bolts is with the box end of a wrench, you will probably need a cheater bar. If one strips you can cut the head off and remove it like a stud when the housing is off
Thanks for the advice guys. I will order the gaskets now.
I will check the bolts in the mean time.
EDIT---
Yea they were a little loose, I just crawled under there with a long 14mm and nipped it up a bit and wiped up the weeping fluid. Hopefully that stops it.
Still going to replace the bolts/gaskets just in case
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Defender Source Forum
1M posts
24K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Land Rover Defender owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, overland, classifieds, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!