Frame Swap and Endcaps??? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 5th, 2005, 10:16 AM
TurkD90
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Nedim Aruz
1995 D90 SW
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Frame Swap and Endcaps???

I was wondering if anyone can tell me what a ball park cost is to switch to a galvanized frame for a D-90...and is ECR the one choice for me living in the NYC area? Also, how long would it take?

Also, I have an issue with the end caps (not sure if thats what the part is called...see pic) on my SW showing signs of rust...I've sanded them down and repainted them twice already but one or two day of rain and it's back again. After taking some of the interior panels off I can see the rust is more than just surface...the pass side is much worse than the drivers. I've got to get new ones...can any repair shop swap them out or is this a rover specialist job b/c of the rivets? Any recco's for Westchester/NYC?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old December 5th, 2005, 12:47 PM
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rover4x4
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Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
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where did you get that Defender?
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  #3  
Old December 5th, 2005, 12:53 PM
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David Marchand
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Looks like Copley.

As far as frame swaps, anyone could do it. Overland Engineering in Kittery Maine is a recommendation.

The problem is sourcing the correct NAS frame. You can get one from DAP in VT. How bad is your existing frame? I would consider blasting that and dipping it before trying to get a totally new one.

The end caps can be bought galvanized as well. I think Rovers North carries them.
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Old December 5th, 2005, 12:54 PM
TurkD90
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Nedim Aruz
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From Copley...in Dec 02. Why do u ask?
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  #5  
Old December 5th, 2005, 01:09 PM
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rover4x4
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Phillip
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that truck was there when I bought mine, I recall it being pretty "corroded"
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  #6  
Old December 5th, 2005, 01:28 PM
TurkD90
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Nedim Aruz
1995 D90 SW
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hmm...dont think so. I did a very thourough inspection (bulkhead/ frame, rear cross member etc)...on top of that it had a a nice undercoating on it as well. It was in good shape when i got it but the past two winters has taken their toll on the rear part of the truck. I recenetly had the rear crossmember/bumper sandblasted and repainted which is really the only place where I've had any issues. Right now the only rust issues that I'm dealing with fixing are mostly cosmetic (hinges and endcaps) both fairly normal items from what i hear.

I was asking about the frame swap for down the road - i plan on keeping the truck for a long time and want to have at least round number about what it will cost to upkeep in the future.
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  #7  
Old December 5th, 2005, 01:55 PM
crobinson
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Chris Robinson
97' D1
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I got a frame from a NAS 95' D90 that is in excellent shape 98% RUST free ready to ship out if you are interested. $1000
Thanks
Chris Robinson
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  #8  
Old December 10th, 2005, 04:03 PM
Westiia
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Alex West
1969 Series IIA 88" ST
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There called "cappings" well over here at least they used to be galvanised before landrover realised could save a few quid and now are just painted. they are rivivted to the tub you'll need to remove the roof to gain access. Replace with galv ones or the rust will come back
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Old December 10th, 2005, 05:52 PM
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Hans Haase
The D-90.com Lab Rat
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As said, you'll never get rid of the rust by painting them externally. Rover assembled the body before painting, so the backside of those things aren't painted at all, which is where your rust is going to continue. They aren't too bad to replace, but it will require removing the top.

-Hans
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  #10  
Old December 12th, 2005, 10:33 AM
TurkD90
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Nedim Aruz
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thanks for your help....yup the part of the capping that I can see from inside (once i remove the interior panels & rear speaker) is very rusted. I cleaned it up as much as possible and even coated it in waxoyl but apparently that is not enough to solve it as it's taken about 6 months to have it creep out.

What's involved with removing the top? is this something any autobody shop can do or do i need a rover specialist due to the rivets/aluminum???? Can i remove it with some help? Does it all come off as one piece or do i need to separate the roof from the sides?
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Old December 31st, 2005, 11:21 AM
Westiia
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Alex West
1969 Series IIA 88" ST
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Top remmoval

The top simply unbolts at each corner and across the top of the windscreen you'll need to remove the top rear door hinge then unbolt the top and lift it clear it will take a couple of you to lift as it can be awkward. alternativly you can just unbolt at each corner leaving it attached across the windscreen and lift the top to give you a smallish gap to work on the cappings tho you may have acces trouble to some of the rivets
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