Footwell and Door post repair: plan of attack? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 9th, 2014, 11:05 AM
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Footwell and Door post repair: plan of attack?

I'm going to be repairing my footwells and door post bottoms on my '86 110 and I'd appreciate some advice from those who have gone through this. I'll be using the YRM footwell panels and a set of door posts I got from RN, and doing the work with the bulkhead in place on the truck. I'm debating the order of repair for ease and alignment; cut out the footwell and tack in place then chop the door post, vice versa, or all at once. I repaired the footwell on my series but didn't have to deal with anything structural.

Also, not sure if I need to worry about support when I remove the door post, seems like the b pillar would take up the slack.
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  #2  
Old October 9th, 2014, 11:11 AM
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this may help for general reference
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Old October 9th, 2014, 12:34 PM
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Thanks, fun to watch, bolting new parts together make it look so easy. No headaches there. Not sure it provides much insight into cutting and welding but fun never the less.
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Old October 9th, 2014, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toad View Post
Thanks, fun to watch, bolting new parts together make it look so easy. No headaches there. Not sure it provides much insight into cutting and welding but fun never the less.
Figured it might clarify supporting structures and squares on the truck if you're going to be doing surgery
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  #5  
Old October 9th, 2014, 12:39 PM
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You will be replacing it all at once because the footwell connects to the upright. It's a major pain when the bulkhead is off the truck, I can't imagine how it works in situ. You will need to support the bulkhead because you will be removing the mount on the side you are replacing.

If I was to do it again, I would consider sourcing a bulkhead and complete the repairs, then have it galvanized.
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Old October 9th, 2014, 09:33 PM
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Yeah I don't expect it to be easy, I'm expecting to have to pull the pedals and have plenty of cursing working in tight quarters. I have the seat box out which will give me much more room inside, which is what I did on my series. Keeping the bulkhead on the truck should help a bit with alignment but I'll throw a brace of some sort on the upper bulkhead to ensure it doesn't sag when I remove the post.
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  #7  
Old October 12th, 2014, 09:09 PM
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I did my footwells recently

I recently did my footwells but did not touch the A post.

I will attach some photos and you can PM me or call 907-590-9332 if you want to talk about it.

I used the YRM "short" footwell replacements. Under Advice from Ed Angel I cut out the bad panels and then installed the YRM's with about 1 inch overlap with the existing bulkhead.

So in my case it was the floor and a few inches up the sides and front of the floor (flat) section that had to go.

I used small self tapping screws to get the exact fit I wanted with the new YRM pieces and the I used rosette welds to make it permanent. I used 3M-5200 adhesive sealant to make it all water tight. Finally at the suggestion of another local who has completely rebuilt his SIII I used "peel and seal" as caulking when in put the floor floor panel and tunnel. This stuff comes in tubes like caulking, is clear and waterproof but comes back off easy if you ever have to get back into your tunnel or unscrew your floors again. For me it was a time consuming job but not particularly challenging.
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  #8  
Old June 2nd, 2015, 09:39 PM
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You mind if I text you when I do mine? Perhaps iPhone FaceTime action? I might be doing mine within the next 30 days. Awesome thread.
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  #9  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 12:43 AM
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Steve, Brian at Defenders northwest carries the yrm 3 piece footwells
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  #10  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 01:21 AM
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Stephen LeBlanc
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Thanks. I bought them. I may need a tip or two when doing the project.
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  #11  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 01:24 AM
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Stephen LeBlanc
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  #12  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 12:17 PM
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Yes you can call me

Call me if you want to discuss before or when you get into the job. 907-590-9332 Jack
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  #13  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 05:07 PM
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Awesome! Thanks man!!
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