Fog Light Wiring to d110 dome switch - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 6th, 2011, 01:59 AM
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Justin Tebbenkamp
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Fog Light Wiring to d110 dome switch

I have two pair of fog lights. I made my own harness and I'm using the d110 dome light switch (on-off-on)... http://www.expeditionexchange.com/ca...cat=262&page=2
I can get each pair to come on separately...but how do I get all four to light up in one on position...and just two to light up in the other on position. I'm using two realys as well. thanks...j
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  #2  
Old February 6th, 2011, 09:23 AM
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Justin Tebbenkamp
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this is the schematic I used to wire my lights. Inside pair lights through one relay...outside pair through additional relay. Want to burn the inside with one on position...and all four in the other on position. Do I need to run a diode(s) somewhere.
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  #3  
Old February 6th, 2011, 10:25 AM
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Bill Adams
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What you need is a DPDT switch. That's Dual Pole Dual Throw. I don't know if the switch you bought is that type or not. It should have six terminals on the back. It's basically two switches in one housing. They come configured as OFF-ON-ON, MOMENTARY-OFF-MOMENTARY, MOMENTARY-OFF-ON, and ON-OFF-ON. You'll want the first kind; off-on-on.
Carling makes the Contura line which you are probably familiar with, but there are several makers and styles available.
Check out your switch and let us know what type you have.
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  #4  
Old February 6th, 2011, 10:32 AM
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kevin
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Or an SPDT relay. I think the LR switch is a DPDT, though.
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  #5  
Old February 6th, 2011, 11:03 AM
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Justin Tebbenkamp
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I'm almost 100% the Land rover switch is DPDT in an ON-OFF-ON configuration. But it only has 4 terminals on the back....with a 5th in the middle that looks like a rivet. (switch down...the top two terminals have continuity) (switch up...the bottom two have continuity). I'm using the Hella Blade Fuse Relays...they are SPST.
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  #6  
Old February 6th, 2011, 03:21 PM
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Yeah maybe get an off-on-on switch. Thing about the switch you have is that it is kinda counter-intuitive to the operation of the lights. You want a switch that's like, on some, and then on even more.
If you keep the one you have it's a pretty simple deal to connect it up. Switched power to both terminals. One side then goes to solenoid that turns on just the inner two lights and the other side goes to a solenoid that turns on all four. Just put a fuse in the second circuit that's twice as many amps.

On switch:
Switched 12V pos in->solenoid controlling inner two lamps

Switched 12V pos in->solenoid controlling all four lamps

On solenoids:
For inner two lamps, 30 is fused 12V hot (fuse should be sufficient to handle amperage of lamps combined) 87 is to inner two lamps load. 85 is switch, 86 ground.


For outer two, and inner two lamps, 30 is fused 12V hot (fuse should be sufficient to handle amperage of lamps combined) 87 is to all lamps load. 85 is switch, 86 ground.

To find out how many amps for the fuse, add up total wattage on the circuit and divide by 12. Round up to the nearest power of 5. Say you have two 55W lamps on a circuit. That's 110 watts divided by 12 V, which is 9.16...so a 10 amp fuse.
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  #7  
Old February 6th, 2011, 05:46 PM
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Justin Tebbenkamp
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For outer two, and inner two lamps, 87 is to all lamps load....so can I just pigtail the leads off the two 87s together?

I'm good as far as fuse and amps...I have 25amp relays with 25 amp blade fuses

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Yeah maybe get an off-on-on switch. Thing about the switch you have is that it is kinda counter-intuitive to the operation of the lights. You want a switch that's like, on some, and then on even more.
If you keep the one you have it's a pretty simple deal to connect it up. Switched power to both terminals. One side then goes to solenoid that turns on just the inner two lights and the other side goes to a solenoid that turns on all four. Just put a fuse in the second circuit that's twice as many amps.

On switch:
Switched 12V pos in->solenoid controlling inner two lamps

Switched 12V pos in->solenoid controlling all four lamps

On solenoids:
For inner two lamps, 30 is fused 12V hot (fuse should be sufficient to handle amperage of lamps combined) 87 is to inner two lamps load. 85 is switch, 86 ground.


For outer two, and inner two lamps, 30 is fused 12V hot (fuse should be sufficient to handle amperage of lamps combined) 87 is to all lamps load. 85 is switch, 86 ground.

To find out how many amps for the fuse, add up total wattage on the circuit and divide by 12. Round up to the nearest power of 5. Say you have two 55W lamps on a circuit. That's 110 watts divided by 12 V, which is 9.16...so a 10 amp fuse.
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  #8  
Old February 6th, 2011, 05:48 PM
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Drop your fuses to 7.5 amps.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #9  
Old February 6th, 2011, 05:56 PM
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Justin Tebbenkamp
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but is that right...i can just pigtail the 87s together?
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  #10  
Old February 6th, 2011, 10:52 PM
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Don't overthink it. Switch position 1 is inner two. Position 2 is all four.

------ Follow up post added February 6th, 2011 10:55 PM ------

Connect the 87 from solenoid one to the inner two lamps. Connect the 87 from solenoid two to all four lamps.

------ Follow up post added February 6th, 2011 10:56 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea
Don't overthink it. Switch position 1 is inner two. Position 2 is all four.

------ Follow up post added February 6th, 2011 10:55 PM ------

Connect the 87 from solenoid one to the inner two lamps. Connect the 87 from solenoid two to all four lamps.
And check the fuse load. Forget what I wrote about lowering the fuse value.
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  #11  
Old February 6th, 2011, 10:59 PM
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In my 90 I used the factory switch that EE sells that has no light symbol on it. It is just a two position (on/off) switch and has two prongs on the back. I used a hella wiring harness so this switch plugged in no issue.
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  #12  
Old February 6th, 2011, 11:41 PM
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I have new OEM LR wiring harness with wiring diagram. If you need the diagram and instruction, just let me know.

Sal
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  #13  
Old February 8th, 2012, 09:38 PM
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Hey Justin - I was wondering where you found the female connectors to attach to the back of the original dome light switch? They look like bullet connectors, but most bullet connectors I am familiar with have a bit that protrudes in their profile where as these are completely smooth? I was going to use this to save the time and cost of ordering the switch from EE.

Also - I am wiring up two hella 4000 on a 97 D90 and was wondering if there was any reason not to use the engine compartment fuse box power in (there is even an empty stud hole on the bus bar) as the main power running to the relay/lights? Thanks!
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  #14  
Old February 10th, 2012, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D110 View Post
Hey Justin - I was wondering where you found the female connectors to attach to the back of the original dome light switch? They look like bullet connectors, but most bullet connectors I am familiar with have a bit that protrudes in their profile where as these are completely smooth? I was going to use this to save the time and cost of ordering the switch from EE.

Also - I am wiring up two hella 4000 on a 97 D90 and was wondering if there was any reason not to use the engine compartment fuse box power in (there is even an empty stud hole on the bus bar) as the main power running to the relay/lights? Thanks!

Autosparks in the UK sell them, their Ref: C836 - http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_...oducts_id=1234

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A bit closer to home for you is British Wiring, their Ref: 836 - http://www.britishwiring.com/CAT16_19.PDF


Paul.

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  #15  
Old February 11th, 2012, 07:16 PM
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Thanks Paul!
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  #16  
Old April 4th, 2014, 12:54 PM
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Please spare yourself trouble down the road and run a telay
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Old April 4th, 2014, 01:17 PM
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please spare yourself trouble down the road and run a telay

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