Flush of Fuel System (tdi) - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 24th, 2015, 02:33 PM
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Flush of Fuel System (tdi)

Earlier today I got a phone call I was somewhat dreading but expecting - my 90 is not starting. It's been sitting for about 12 months since being seized last July. I don't expect it's been started anytime lately as it doesn't sound like they kept a trickle charger on it. I've got a warranty to cover the battery but am more concerned with getting rid of any bad fuel in the system. What steps should I take to ensure all the bad fuel is removed from the system? Although I consider myself quite handy mechanically I haven't ever dug into the fueling system of a diesel motor. I plan to run bio diesel in the future so I'd like to take any measures to run bio while I'm at it. Any advice or guidance would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Kevin
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  #2  
Old June 24th, 2015, 02:36 PM
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You could drain the tank, fill it with fresh fuel then with your freshly charged batter crank it up. I bet that is all you will need to do. For piece of mind once it is running you could swap out the filter and call it 100% done.
What kind of motor is in it?
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  #3  
Old June 24th, 2015, 02:37 PM
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Super simple system. You could run an electric pump to purge the fuel if you'd like. I don't have any experience running bio-diesel so I can't help you there, but I can get you a diagram for the fuel routing if you'd like
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  #4  
Old June 24th, 2015, 02:54 PM
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If it's diesel I'd just add a bottle or of diesel 911 and run it. Diesel dosent really go bad unless it has water in it.
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Old June 24th, 2015, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
If it's diesel I'd just add a bottle or of diesel 911 and run it. Diesel dosent really go bad unless it has water in it.
Good advice.
Unless you have an algae infection, your fuel will last years, so no need to drain and renew it.

If you're going to run bio, it is important to have a sedimenter to trap water.
If you don't have a sedimenter water that has not yet emulsified will get pushed through the IP and injector causing wear and rust, so you'll want to add a sedimenter.
Bio also will trap and hold water in an emulsified state.
Heating emulsified bio will cause the water to precipitate out so a heated sedimenter will be even better.
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Old June 24th, 2015, 03:35 PM
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Damn this is about the best news I've gotten since Will told me I was getting my 90 back. I was afraid this would be a nightmare. Appreciate the quick responses everyone. I'll run it on straight diesel - the bio can wait for now
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Old June 24th, 2015, 06:06 PM
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If you have a metal fuel tank and were in a humid area, you could have a little water in the tank from condensation on the inner walls, but that's about it.
Crank it up and go for a ride Kevin.
Am vicariously celebrating your successful return scenario from afar!
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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Old June 24th, 2015, 06:10 PM
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And if you have a metal tank, it probably has a drain plug, and any sitting water will be at the bottom point in the tank.
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  #9  
Old June 24th, 2015, 06:23 PM
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Thanks for the further info. I'll crack the tank and see if there's any water. It's also got a sedimenter fitted so that's a bit of insurance. Can't wait for the first puff of black smoke in start up
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Old June 24th, 2015, 08:20 PM
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If you have a sedimenter, then just drive it.
The sedimenter will collect 99.999% of the water.
Just keep up with draining it to purge the water out (of the sedimenter).

Note that draining introduces air to the fuel system and will result in poor running or cause the engine to shut down temporarily until you purge the air (cranking it over should do it).
If you installed a 12V fuel pump after the sedimenter, then the pump will automatically purge the air out and the engine will not stumble or stop running.
Introducing air will be unnoticeable with a 12V fuel pump.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #11  
Old June 29th, 2015, 02:02 PM
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Some good news - got the 90 back today and is running. Guess they'd charged the battery overnight or something. It was returned in decent shape however it seems to stumble under load or higher RPM. This also comes with a good amount of black smoke. Before the truck would only have a small puff of smoke at start up. All this being said, I have not driven it around the block or anything yet so it's not been up to full temp. Is it likely an issue of not being warmed up to operating temp in a very long time or something else? Runs as smooth as it always did in lower RPM. Any advice would be appreciated
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Old June 29th, 2015, 02:28 PM
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I just installed a 4JB1-T in a 110.
Smoked like crazy at start up.
I ran it up to speed for about 10 minutes.
Now it doesn't smoke at all.
Take it for a run.
Most likely the smoke will subside
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #13  
Old June 29th, 2015, 04:38 PM
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Agreed here. Put some diesel 911 in the tank and run the piss out of it...Italian tune up style. Refill with fresh Diesel and you will probably be GTG.

If not check the breather lines and the turbo drain hose for flow
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  #14  
Old June 30th, 2015, 11:15 AM
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Put some Diesel 911 in it today and it still running very poorly. Also opened the sedimenter bleed screw and no water came out. It idles like it always did but any time I put my foot on the gas or stumbles bad (so much so I had to put it in low range to get back to my place). Any other advice?
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  #15  
Old June 30th, 2015, 11:17 AM
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Run a soft line direct from the lift pump to a fuel tank, then work your way back to find out where the issue lies
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  #16  
Old June 30th, 2015, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howski View Post
Put some Diesel 911 in it today and it still running very poorly. Also opened the sedimenter bleed screw and no water came out. It idles like it always did but any time I put my foot on the gas or stumbles bad (so much so I had to put it in low range to get back to my place). Any other advice?
hmm, or run a soft line from the lift pump input to a jug or fresh diesel, see if it runs better
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  #17  
Old June 30th, 2015, 12:55 PM
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I feel like I've seen that suggestion before somewhere
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  #18  
Old June 30th, 2015, 01:43 PM
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Any idea what size the hose for the lift pump is?
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  #19  
Old June 30th, 2015, 02:02 PM
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Any idea what size the hose for the lift pump is?
It is 3/8" tubing.
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  #20  
Old June 30th, 2015, 05:54 PM
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Thanks. I'm gonna crack the drain plug to check for any water tomorrow as well as replacing the line. Hopefully I'll report back with some good news
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