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  #1  
Old February 4th, 2012, 09:50 AM
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Fluids - Change diff and transfer case

Did a search, but most of the answers were for a R380 not a LT77

I Want to change my diff fluids and tranny/transfer case fluids

Diffs - 80w90 correct? Synthetic or not make a difference? - Fill till it seeps out the fill plug I'm assuming

Tranny - Any "F" type fluid correct? Also, same fill till it seaps out of the fill hole correct?

TC - I think I have an LT230 - dont knwo what came in my year truck (anyone know how ot identify it)? Assuming it is - same 80w90? again - fill till it seaps out of the fill plug?


Looking for products I can get at the store and not have to hunt all over for.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old February 4th, 2012, 10:03 AM
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I run Lucas 80-90W in my diffs & transfer case, Redline MTL in my tranny. But yes, fill until it comes out of the plug hole.
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  #3  
Old February 4th, 2012, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
I run Lucas 80-90W in my diffs & transfer case, Redline MTL in my tranny. But yes, fill until it comes out of the plug hole.

Cool - nice and simple. You have an LT77 as well?
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Old February 4th, 2012, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
Cool - nice and simple. You have an LT77 as well?
Whoops...no, R380 (missed that on your post). But same principles would apply I would think?
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  #5  
Old February 4th, 2012, 11:01 AM
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Did you guys switch out the drain plugs to the magnetic ones?
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  #6  
Old February 4th, 2012, 11:08 AM
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MTL (or similar) in the LT77 as well.

If you are somewhere that gets cold a 75W-90 helps for the t. case and axles.
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  #7  
Old February 4th, 2012, 11:11 AM
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I use Redline MTL in the LT77 (There may be cheaper alternatives, like Pennzoil or GM Synchromesh, which I want to try next change just for the halibut.)

Mobil 1 synthetic 70W90 in the LT230.

Mobil 1 synthetic grease in all the zerks.

Autozone 80W90 dino gear oil everywhere else.

My truck's po thoughtfully put magnetic drain plugs in the LT77/LT230. I like them a lot.
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Old February 4th, 2012, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Did you guys switch out the drain plugs to the magnetic ones?
Yes, I switched them out to the #FTC5208 magnetic (ordered them from LRSeries.com for $5/ea).

------ Follow up post added February 4th, 2012 11:58 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
I use Redline MTL in the LT77 (There may be cheaper alternatives, like Pennzoil or GM Synchromesh, which I want to try next change just for the halibut.)

Mobil 1 synthetic 70W90 in the LT230.

Mobil 1 synthetic grease in all the zerks.

Autozone 80W90 dino gear oil everywhere else.

My truck's po thoughtfully put magnetic drain plugs in the LT77/LT230. I like them a lot.
Just curious, how come you went 70W90 in the LT230?
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  #9  
Old February 4th, 2012, 04:02 PM
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Thanks guys, got some 80-90 for the diffs, and MTL for the tranny. 3 places were out of Synthetic 70-90 for the TC so I'll do that another day.

Gonna be smelling good after this project...
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  #10  
Old February 4th, 2012, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Just curious, how come you went 70W90 in the LT230?
Sorry, major typo - that should have been 75W90, not 70W90!

But the reason was I wanted something that didn't have the consistency of honey at below 32 degrees fahrenheit
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  #11  
Old February 10th, 2012, 02:41 PM
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Thanks guys -changed them all out today (now my driveway has little spots all over).

All the fluid was pretty nasty, gearbox was the best out of all of them. Driveline deff feels a little smoother.

I used 80w-90 for the diffs and TC (valvoline reguluar b/c thats all they had any decent qty of)

And Redline MTL for the Gearbox. Glad I had my suction gun... that thing is a godsend.

I held off on the oil change, this way I'm pushed to drop the tdi in instead! All ready for the ROMP now
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  #12  
Old February 11th, 2012, 07:25 PM
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I like Amsoil's MTF (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtf.aspx) in the transmission (I have an R380 though) similar to Pennzoil/GM's synchromesh fluids and Royal Purple 80W90 in the T-case and Diffs (I had a case leftover from something, will use something more generic when I have to do it again). Marine grade grease in all the fittings, one-shot grease in the swivels. Filling with a drill pump usually lets you get a few extra ml in too.
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Old February 11th, 2012, 07:32 PM
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I overfill the gearboxes by jack up the drivers side I think it helps.
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Old February 11th, 2012, 11:57 PM
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I have to look at what fittings need some greasing.......anyone have a diagram handy? or just a list of things to do.
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  #15  
Old February 12th, 2012, 02:50 PM
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You need to do your drive shafts like yesterday... These are supposed to be done at-least every oil change, and LR recommends doing them after every water encounter. There is a zerk on the U-joints at both ends of each driveshaft, and then one on the slipyolk about 1/3 of the way from the transfer case side. I doubt any of your ball joints have zerks, but if they do, hit those.

So 3x each driveshaft (x2 driveshafts) = 6 fittings
then if you got them, 1 on draglink TRE, 2 on the track tre's.


I really don't think any of the fluids matters all that much if you change them regularly. I run MTL in R380, and Royal Purple syn gear oil in the Diffs and T-case. I have heard of people putting Gear oil in the gearbox... They screwed the pooch there, b/c the pump can't move the heavier oil well enough.
I had heard from everyone that you should overfill the T-case, I don't know about overfilling the Gearbox though. I did it the last time when I switched to MTL and now I don't shift well into 2nd, esp coming down from 3rd. I've been mindful of shifting slower, but have been too lazy to get under there and unscrew the level plug to let it drain to spec.
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Old February 12th, 2012, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Andrew View Post
You need to do your drive shafts like yesterday... These are supposed to be done at-least every oil change, and LR recommends doing them after every water encounter. There is a zerk on the U-joints at both ends of each driveshaft, and then one on the slipyolk about 1/3 of the way from the transfer case side. I doubt any of your ball joints have zerks, but if they do, hit those.

So 3x each driveshaft (x2 driveshafts) = 6 fittings
then if you got them, 1 on draglink TRE, 2 on the track tre's.


I really don't think any of the fluids matters all that much if you change them regularly. I run MTL in R380, and Royal Purple syn gear oil in the Diffs and T-case. I have heard of people putting Gear oil in the gearbox... They screwed the pooch there, b/c the pump can't move the heavier oil well enough.
I had heard from everyone that you should overfill the T-case, I don't know about overfilling the Gearbox though. I did it the last time when I switched to MTL and now I don't shift well into 2nd, esp coming down from 3rd. I've been mindful of shifting slower, but have been too lazy to get under there and unscrew the level plug to let it drain to spec.

Thanks! I'll crawl under there tomorrow with the grease gun and see what i can find! Very good to know!
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  #17  
Old February 12th, 2012, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Andrew View Post
I really don't think any of the fluids matters all that much if you change them regularly. I run MTL in R380, and Royal Purple syn gear oil in the Diffs and T-case. I have heard of people putting Gear oil in the gearbox... They screwed the pooch there, b/c the pump can't move the heavier oil well enough.
How often on changing the fluid in the R380? I've been thinking I should change mine....haven't in a couple years (everything else gets changed religiously).
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  #18  
Old February 13th, 2012, 05:19 PM
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My thought is it's cheap insurance if you're doing it yourself. I'm going do try changing the MTL out at 1 yr mark and see what its like.
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Old February 13th, 2012, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by J. Andrew View Post
My thought is it's cheap insurance if you're doing it yourself. I'm going do try changing the MTL out at 1 yr mark and see what its like.
Probably a good call...I've got the MTL sitting here in quarts anyhow, maybe I'll tackle it this week once I get done painting my rear crossmember.
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  #20  
Old February 15th, 2012, 11:22 AM
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Its not an automatic transmission, so the sooner you're changing it the less metal you're going to have floating around in there, and maybe more importantly in our trucks, the more likely you are to not be running low. Autos are those special circumstance where if it ain't broke don't go f-ing with it too much. I've seen fluid changes both cause and cure problems in old auto boxes.

Did anyone have a good reason/ proof of concept for overfilling the R380?
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