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  #21  
Old February 15th, 2012, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Andrew View Post
You need to do your drive shafts like yesterday... These are supposed to be done at-least every oil change, and LR recommends doing them after every water encounter. There is a zerk on the U-joints at both ends of each driveshaft, and then one on the slipyolk about 1/3 of the way from the transfer case side. I doubt any of your ball joints have zerks, but if they do, hit those.

So 3x each driveshaft (x2 driveshafts) = 6 fittings
then if you got them, 1 on draglink TRE, 2 on the track tre's.


So i hit the zerks on the front and rear drive shafts. Took a surprising amount of grease I thought.


What about those swivel joints at each of the front wheels. DO those get greased or anything?

I read there is a drain and fill plug on them, and think I found it, but before I drain those (1) what do I fill it with and (2) how much do I fill it.

I couldn't find any zerks on the Tie Rod Ends...
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  #22  
Old February 15th, 2012, 03:56 PM
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I filled my swivel balls with 80W90. Fill until the upper (fill) plug starts to spill over.

You could fill it with grease, but after having seen a swivel ball completely disassembled, I'm not sure I see the point - or even how to remove the old grease if necessary.

Maybe someone else knows about the advantages of grease in the swivel balls
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  #23  
Old February 15th, 2012, 03:58 PM
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The swivels can either have gear oil or a special swivel grease in them. There is a level/fill plug for filling. When you remove the plug, you will see the swivel ball. Turn the wheel to the outside and the hole will clear the swivel and be easier to fill.
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  #24  
Old February 15th, 2012, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Maybe someone else knows about the advantages of grease in the swivel balls
They started using grease to reduce leaks and warranty claims.... The downside is when a seal is damaged, it does not leak and so you don't know the seal is damaged. The next time you wade, it can fill with water and mud and destroy the CV joints.
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  #25  
Old February 15th, 2012, 04:02 PM
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Are the seals the same whether your truck is designed for gear oil or grease?
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  #26  
Old February 15th, 2012, 04:03 PM
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Yes, seals are the same. At some point they started removing the fill and drain plugs as well.
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  #27  
Old February 15th, 2012, 04:12 PM
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Ok pulled the plugs and nothing came out... looks like it was filled last with grease.

now more questions....

Grease doesn't "pour" out like oil... so do I have to remove the oil grease or just pump in some new with drain plug open, and it should force out the old"

Same concept - fill it with grease until it comes out of the fill plug?

What are the specs on the grease, anything I can get at a NAPA or autozone? I'm sure LR's parts dept is closed and I'm leaving for the romp tomorrow AM.
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  #28  
Old February 15th, 2012, 04:19 PM
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It is a special grease that you can't get anywhere. It is very thin.

I would suggest blowing out what you can by putting a air chuck in the fill port and gently forcing what you can out the drain. Then fill with oil.... The grease is semi fluid.

The only proper way to change the grease is to take the whole mess apart.....
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  #29  
Old February 15th, 2012, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
Ok pulled the plugs and nothing came out... looks like it was filled last with grease.

now more questions....

Grease doesn't "pour" out like oil... so do I have to remove the oil grease or just pump in some new with drain plug open, and it should force out the old"

Same concept - fill it with grease until it comes out of the fill plug?

What are the specs on the grease, anything I can get at a NAPA or autozone? I'm sure LR's parts dept is closed and I'm leaving for the romp tomorrow AM.
I used a tube of one-shot grease per side (http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC3435S.cfm). Mine was previously filled with, honestly I'm not sure. It was a bit soupy but I didn't really see anything that looked like dissolved water/mud. Having said that stuff did come out of the drain, I let it sit for several hours, so I assume that means it was oil.

I wasn't able to source swivel grease locally (nor do I know how close it is to axle/bearing/u-joint grease), so I ordered it.
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  #30  
Old February 15th, 2012, 04:22 PM
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Ok - LR is open till 5 going to go grab it now.

They mentioned to take the casing off to remove the old... Might just do that if its not to bad

I dont want to put an air chuck on it... sounds like it could damage the seals. (i'm sure they aren't meant to handle any sort of PSI)
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  #31  
Old February 15th, 2012, 05:06 PM
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Just go pick up some Molly grease, it is the same as the expensive LR Grease.
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  #32  
Old February 15th, 2012, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woldd90 View Post
Just go pick up some Molly grease, it is the same as the expensive LR Grease.

read this just after i bought 3 tubes.... o well.


The guys at LR said spray a bunch of brake cleaner in there and let it drain for a few hours, then fill it up with new grease.

The brake cleaner will dissolve a good bit of it, and any brake cleaner that doesn't drain out will evaporate off anyways.


So I did this, had a decent line of grease in my catch can after a few hours so I'm assuming it worked. Took a whole tube of the grease after.... going to do the other tomorrow AM and i should be all good to go.
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  #33  
Old February 16th, 2012, 01:26 PM
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Yea, in the "one shot vs Gear oil" thread on here, numerous people espoused the virtues of one vs the other and how to switch from one to the other etc. I think the best rec I found was to get the grease out (if you have drain plug), put some diesel in there and drive it around the block to get things mixed up. I'd think that if you had driven around a bit before you pulled the plug the grease would be much more fluid either way and would come out.

As for grease vs oil, I think the consensus was: Oil if you do any wading, b/c: a) its easier to change, b) it lubricates well and will help keep the water out/ suspend some of the water if you get some in, and d?) when the seal is bad it leaks letting you know.
Grease: if you don't wade, it might be better, and it won't leak all over when your seals go.
Then there were those who did some of both. I changed from what I hope was oil, given its consistency to grease, only b/c I don't wade or wheel it, and it seemed like if LR was putting this in for the newer swivels w/o drain plugs (they come factory greased for "LIFE") then it must be good for extremely long intervals, and do a damn fine job. Plus I am trying to keep all the garage stains straight down the middle, none of this at the corners bullshiit.
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  #34  
Old March 5th, 2012, 04:44 PM
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Sorry, bumping an old thread. Does you buy fluids (engine, transmission, transfer case, & differential oil, and grease) at the local auto parts store, or is there some mega-auto-fluid-mart.com selling all brands of fluids at discounted pricing that I am unaware of?
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  #35  
Old March 5th, 2012, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popeohana View Post
Sorry, bumping an old thread. Does you buy fluids (engine, transmission, transfer case, & differential oil, and grease) at the local auto parts store, or is there some mega-auto-fluid-mart.com selling all brands of fluids at discounted pricing that I am unaware of?
I actually get my Rotella 15W40 & Lucas 80-90W right at Advance Auto Parts. Wait for the sale, then load up. If you're changing the tranny fluid to Redline MTL you may have to find a special distributor, but everthing else can probably be had at Advance Auto / AutoZone / WalMart to be honest.
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  #36  
Old March 5th, 2012, 06:53 PM
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Its def not the cheapest way to get it, but if no one around you carries it, you can get MTL from amazon, and shipping is free (also the case for Mobil 1 0w40, Royal purple or Mobil 1 gear oil etc etc). I have their prime service and so it comes free and in two days.
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  #37  
Old March 5th, 2012, 08:23 PM
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I can get it everything locally, although not from a single source. I was more just wondering if there was an online vendor that carried everything and would ship to my door on the cheap.
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  #38  
Old March 5th, 2012, 09:57 PM
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One good source for oil, coolant and grease is the local equipment dealer, i.e. Cat, Deer, Cummings etc.

Are their any rules about posting links for suppliers, i work for a Cat Dealer, so i am knowledgeable about their line of lubricants, I could list out the parts numbers of what you are looking for as long as i am not braking any forum rules :-)

You wont go far without seeing a Cat or Deer sign so its a good way to get the same brand were ever your travels take you.
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  #39  
Old March 6th, 2012, 08:05 AM
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  #40  
Old March 8th, 2012, 12:29 AM
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Cat Oil, Grease, Coolant

Parts info http://parts.cat.com/parts
Few clicks and you can get info on nuts, bolts, tools, etc not cheap but for the odd item with no shipping its often worth it.

Coolant, grease, oils http://parts.cat.com/parts/machine-fluids this is the main page.

Coolant http://parts.cat.com/parts/machine-f...d-life-coolant this is the coolant i run in my D2 V8 and have run it in multiple rovers, good for 100000 miles, it does creep so you can find leaks very easy, needs to go into a reasonably clean cooling system as it will dissolve, rust, scale etc.
If you want more tech info just click on the reference material tab, their are specs, details etc.

Grease, http://parts.cat.com/parts/machine-fluids/greases# lots of info in the products and reference tabs, the arctic platinum is good for front hub/balls as its almost liquid at typical axle temperatures, high speed is a good choice for bearings, ujs, drive shafts (its not a good idea to run a grease with moly in a high speed bearing) all other service points pick your best fit, their are products for hot climates, cold climates or a cheaper GP type grease if you do a lot of wet work and grease often.

oils http://parts.cat.com/parts/machine-fluids/oils again lots of reference material and detail just a few clicks away.
Engine, if your in a climate that does not drop below freezing then the 15W40 DEO is the way to go, I run the diesel oil in all of my gas engines, the extra detergent package is good at keeping gas or diesel clean, again if you have an old worn engine, not a good idea to go with a modern oil with a good detergent package as cleaning out all of the gum and carbon could finish it off, if you have a fresh or reasonable health engine then their should be no problem.
If you get down below freezing then the DEO-ULS cold weather is the way to go, fine for gas or diesel (diesel must be ULS)

Gear oil: http://parts.cat.com/parts/machine-fluids/oils/gear-oil the choice is driven by your operating temperatures and vehicle application, i run temp decals on my transfer case and axles to make sure they are not getting up above 120 C, sometimes the thicker oils i.e the 140 are not a good idea, so watch your temps when trying out gear oils.

The temp decals are at http://parts.cat.com/cda/files/29007...stic_Tools.pdf listed under 8t-2844 temp recorder, you can but the individual decals one at a time. i run the 8T-2821 82-110 C and 8T-2822 104-132 C, they are about $3.30 each and last a good year, i check them once a moth, or every 10km after a rebuild or if i am testing a new oil.

So click away and if you have any specific questions post them or PM me, you wont travel far to find a Cat dealer, i doubt that you would call the prices cheap, however its good value and if your after an odd size bolt, a drill bit, a tube of grease etc they can pull a part is from any branch and typically will not charge you shipping if you can wait a day or two.

Alex
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