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  #1  
Old March 25th, 2009, 09:59 PM
JBOD77
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Jonathan
1995 D90 ST Beluga Black
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Question fluid change question

I feel like and idiot but I want to right by my 90. I haven't owned a car in 12 years +. It's all been lease lease lease. I've been out of the oil/lubricant game for some time. I have decided to change ALL of the fluids in the 90. She's only got 37,000 on the clock but I figured it cant hurt. I have decided to use Amsoil products where ever I can.

so here goes:

Engine oil: 5w-40 amsoil European engine formula
transmission: Redline MTL
Transfer gearbox: 80w/90 gearoil
front and rear diffs: ?? 80w/90 ???
Swivel pin housings: ????????? i don't even really know what these are/do

So am I missing anything? Could someone fill in the blanks on the diff oils/swivel pin housing fluids???
Correct or make other viscosity recommendations. Thanks

PS I'm planing on doing the same to my G4 if you want to throw out a suggestion/advice for that too I'd appreciate it
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  #2  
Old March 26th, 2009, 08:43 AM
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Tyler
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Diffs- 90w
Swivel balls I think you mean either One Shot grease from LR or 90w.
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  #3  
Old March 26th, 2009, 09:51 AM
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I would use 75w 90 synthetic, rather than 80w90 non-synthetic in the T-case and axles, but either is fine. One shot grease available from your dealer or the usual suspects for the swivels. If you truck has grease already, it will have two round stickers on the radiator indicating as such and you can just top it up with 90w.
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  #4  
Old March 26th, 2009, 11:02 AM
JBOD77
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Hmmmm. No stickers on the radiator it looks as though it was painted on the top? any other way to tell
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  #5  
Old March 26th, 2009, 11:43 AM
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Phillip
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Engine- M1 Hi Mileage 10w40 has a high sheer rating.
Transfer M1 Gear oil
Diffs M1 Gear oil
Transmission Redline MTL
Swivels cheap 90wt.


What are you using for a filter?
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  #6  
Old March 26th, 2009, 12:12 PM
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One thing you didn't mention is brake fluid. Depending on the humidity of your climate, you should change the stuff out every one to two years. In the reservoir, if the fliuid is tea colored or darker, it's time for a good change. I use a Mity-Vac. 1st, I suck out all the fluid I can get out of the reservoir, and fill it with new. Then I "vacuum" out the rear brakes till I get clear fluid coming out, Then onto the front's. (BE SURE TO KEEP THE RESERVOIR AT FULL LEVEL, to avoid sucking air into the system.) Dirty brake fluid will cause wheel cylinders to rust up and fail (leak). Rust is very hard on seals.

Dennis
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  #7  
Old March 26th, 2009, 12:16 PM
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Mike Doligalski
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Not to side track the main idea of the thread, but the FSM states clearly to bleed the brakes from the caliper closest to the master cylinder (front, driver's side) first. I've heard that the order of bleeding really does make a big difference. This is actually something I've got planned for this weekend.
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  #8  
Old March 26th, 2009, 01:49 PM
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If there is no air in the system and you don't screw up bleeding, any order is fine for bleeding. I have to admit, I am a slacker and just change the fluid in the master cylinder every 6 months with a turkey baster rather than doing a full bleed (hard to find someone to pump the brakes for me). I have done it before, but now I just to the change the stuff in the MC more frequently.

BTW Castol GT LMA is the brake fluid to use.

Ron
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  #9  
Old March 26th, 2009, 01:53 PM
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I just bought a motive bleeder and to be honest i am kind of excited to try it out.
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  #10  
Old March 26th, 2009, 02:27 PM
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i've decided to go with the Amsoild fileter as well. Either that or a Mann filter.
hmmmm brakes huh? definitely got a little tea like color going on......food for thought I guess. At the very least maybe I'll use Ron's method and Turkey Bast the Master Cylinder.........

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by sherpamike
I just bought a motive bleeder and to be honest i am kind of excited to try it out.
Wich one did you buy?
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  #11  
Old March 27th, 2009, 11:58 AM
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I bought the European Bleeder 0100 (http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=247184395) as other people on the board have recommended it... I have yet to try it, but it looks straight forward and like it should work pretty well.
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  #12  
Old March 27th, 2009, 03:56 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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The problem with only doing the fluid in the MC is that one of the biggest causes of failure in brake fluid is boiling. When the brakes get really hot, they heat up the fluid in the calipers and cause it to boil. The air bubbles get trapped in the calipers behind the pistons and cause a soft pedal feel. DOT 4 brake fluid boils at a higher temp, and DOT 5 boils even higher, but until recently DOT 5 was only available in a synthetic that was not compatible. I would replace all the fluid with DOT 4 personally.

Check out this site. They have some really good technical info on brakes.
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  #13  
Old March 27th, 2009, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stmpede
The problem with only doing the fluid in the MC is that one of the biggest causes of failure in brake fluid is boiling.
You don't think that over the course of six months or a year all the brake fluid gets mixed back together?
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  #14  
Old March 28th, 2009, 09:17 AM
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The fluid mixes but if there is air behind the pistons.....bleeding at the caliper is more likely to extract that air.
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  #15  
Old March 29th, 2009, 11:18 AM
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John Brancato
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I spent some time yesterday on similar maintenance and thought of two very cheap and easys.
The real easy one is to drain your flywheel housing (manual transmissions only). I didn't even have the drain plug so that was easy.
The other is to grease your propeller shaft. Very easy.

Good luck.
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  #16  
Old March 29th, 2009, 11:22 PM
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"I didn't even have the drain plug so that was easy."

There is a "wading" plug that you are supposed to put in ONLY when wading.
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