floor board under the drivers side (3 questions) - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 11th, 2012, 07:46 AM
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floor board under the drivers side (3 questions)

Three questions:

1. I'm looking for the floor boards that go under each front seat, is this one piece that goes across and under the console? They may be part of the seat boxes (I'm not sure), the panel under the drivers seat, where the battery sits is shot. Inside the passenger side box the floor is fine.

Can this be an option: http://www.britpart.com/Accessory.as...essoryRef=1351

2. The foot area of the floor board where it bends up behind the gas and brake is is very good shape, so is the flat area, but there seems to be a piece of holding both floor panels behind (connecting at the bend), its underneath, can this be replaced?

3. Can new seat boxes be purchased for a 1997 Defender, or do you have to get them custom made?

Sorry for the strange questions.
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  #2  
Old April 11th, 2012, 08:04 AM
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Jason England
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That link probably isn't what you want ... That's for where your feet go.

Yrm will have some options for you .. It's called the seat box the area you seem to be referring.

http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk...page-2-8-c.asp

Is your truck in manhattan ... There are a few of us local.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 08:10 AM
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I am in Manhattan, I met Josh yesterday, great guy. So the corrosion I"m seeing is the bottom of the battery box and not the floor board?
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Old April 11th, 2012, 09:19 AM
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Matthew
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have any pics? might be easier
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Old April 11th, 2012, 09:20 AM
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Josh runs the Tri-State outlaw d90 chapter ... ;-)

Yes the floor board ( under your feet ) is not steel - its birmabright ( generally refered to as aluminium ). So if you see rust ... then it's steel and if you see a white powdery corrosion then its aluminium.

The battery box is the portion of the seat box under the drivers seat ... and they do corrode ... unless its actually got holes in it from the rust you'd be OK cleaning it out ... painting some rust converter on it ... and not worrying too much!
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 09:59 AM
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Yeah I checked out his truck yesterday. The floorboard under your feet with the huge washers is just fine. It's the small valley section forward of that just between that and the bulkhead footwells that has the most rust, but may stil be salvageable. I'm assuming that's part of the bulkhead? I remember when Forrest replaced his:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...t=21725&page=5

Regarding the seatbox, it's only the lower pan that is rusted - I only saw the passenger side which was also had surface rust all over the bottom of it, so I'm assuming the drivers side was worse, but not sure about holes. Again, here's a photo from Forrest to give you an idea of what a seatbox looks like, Ronnie.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...5&d=1269659864

from his build:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...t=21725&page=9

Truck also had some rust elsewhere like the cappings, some spots on the bulkhead, hinges were starting, etc., but he can deal with those as he sees fit, and I just told him to use some rust inhibitor or rust to primer stuff, or blast/grind some spots and repaint. I didn't see any holes, so you should be fine for now.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 10:21 AM
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Yeah I checked out his truck yesterday. The floorboard under your feet with the huge washers is just fine. It's the small valley section forward of that just between that and the bulkhead footwells that has the most rust, but may stil be salvageable. I'm assuming that's part of the bulkhead? I remember when Forrest replaced his:

correct description

Regarding the seatbox, it's only the lower pan that is rusted - I only saw the passenger side which was also had surface rust all over the bottom of it, so I'm assuming the drivers side was worse, but not sure about holes. Again, here's a photo from Forrest to give you an idea of what a seatbox looks like, Ronnie.

easy fix: http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk...y-box-13-p.asp

Truck also had some rust elsewhere like the cappings, some spots on the bulkhead, hinges were starting, etc., but he can deal with those as he sees fit, and I just told him to use some rust inhibitor or rust to primer stuff, or blast/grind some spots and repaint. I didn't see any holes, so you should be fine for now.

No holes, little surface on cap pings, bulkhead has minimal surface rust, hinges are a mess. I'm going to go to a local body shop, if anyone has any good recommendations please forward.

Ill take a picture of the small valley, I don't think its part of the bulkhead for theres nothing behind it, you can see the other side throughout the wheel well.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 10:28 AM
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Joshua
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I just realized your license also starts with FWY - we must have been just a few days apart when we registered them. I think mine is 4195 or something like that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rd10014 View Post
easy fix:
Ronnie, never say those famous last words - Forrest's ("MUDSUX") complete restoration started with replacing a light bulb.
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  #9  
Old April 11th, 2012, 11:29 AM
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That piece of where the floor hits the bend is the bulkhead. If your rust is limited to there and it is surface it is an easy repair with some converter. If it has holes it is still not a horrible area to cut out and replace.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 11:30 AM
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Footwells are replaceable ... but can be tricky for amateurs ... I think the best approach is goin to be remove the wings ( fenders ) to get decent access. In the short term ... rust inhibitor.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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