Floor area getting hot while driving...solution? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 11th, 2014, 11:06 AM
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Floor area getting hot while driving...solution?

I understand this is a common issue in these trucks with the matting removed. I have Line-X'd floors and the OE rubber matting system is no longer installed.

What solutions are there to cut down on the heat from tunnel/bulkhead etc?
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  #2  
Old July 11th, 2014, 11:14 AM
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Take the top and window tops off?
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  #3  
Old July 11th, 2014, 11:14 AM
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ha!!
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  #4  
Old July 11th, 2014, 11:18 AM
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And wear flip flops. In the winter time you dont have to worry about it.
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  #5  
Old July 11th, 2014, 11:20 AM
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Or drive it through a couple of Vermont winters, you'll get plenty of speed holes in the bulkhead to keep the feet cool.
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  #6  
Old July 11th, 2014, 11:22 AM
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Guess why I went out for my drive first thing this morning.......So much nicer than later in the day.

I'm thinking of dynamating the tunnel (its all bare right now) as a heat insulator. Over that I'm thinking about the bedrug solution that Kolton went with.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ghlight=bedrug
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  #7  
Old July 11th, 2014, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
Take the top and window tops off?
Obviously have never driven an NAS ST then.

I run no top or windows. Flip flops make it worse.

------ Follow up post added July 11th, 2014 01:03 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
Or drive it through a couple of Vermont winters, you'll get plenty of speed holes in the bulkhead to keep the feet cool.
No thanks. I have already rebuilt one rust bucket...haha
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  #8  
Old July 11th, 2014, 04:32 PM
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Wait you removed all of the rubber from the floor and you're wondering why it's getting hot? It's all about insulation and creating a heat barrier, or at least reflecting the heat.
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  #9  
Old July 11th, 2014, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Wait you removed all of the rubber from the floor and you're wondering why it's getting hot? It's all about insulation and creating a heat barrier, or at least reflecting the heat.

I know crazy right.

Previous owner kindly did.

Knowing what to buy and install would help...not trying to reinvent the wheel here.
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  #10  
Old July 11th, 2014, 04:40 PM
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In the for sale parts section I could have sworn someone was just selling the proper/original rubber and foam insulated R380 tunnel cover. You can also go all out and do a combo of the Exmoor system and probably use some of the dynamat stuff (or something better at reflecting heat) to try to reflect some of the heat to keep it from transferring to the cabin in the first place.
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Old July 11th, 2014, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
In the for sale parts section I could have sworn someone was just selling the proper/original rubber and foam insulated R380 tunnel cover. You can also go all out and do a combo of the Exmoor system and probably use some of the dynamat stuff (or something better at reflecting heat) to try to reflect some of the heat to keep it from transferring to the cabin in the first place.

I was thinking the Exmoor System as well with the dynamat or putting all original flooring in if I can source.

How is yours with Rhino and OE rubber?
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  #12  
Old July 11th, 2014, 04:49 PM
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Well, the rubber tunnel cover on mine is bubbled (I'm assuming from the heat) I'm not sure when it happened, but it was before I bought it. I'd love to do the whole Emoore system to make the interior look more finished, and help dissipate any additional heat coming from the engine/trans.
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  #13  
Old July 11th, 2014, 06:32 PM
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I just have the rubber Defender mats front and rear. They get a little warm, nothing crazy. I don't think many people get a Defender for their luxury and comfort.
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  #14  
Old July 11th, 2014, 06:38 PM
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Dumping excess gas making those cats extra toasty? What is your MPG?
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  #15  
Old July 11th, 2014, 08:37 PM
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Floor area getting hot while driving...solution?

Try this company: www.lobucrod.com

No affiliation, but I just bought a roll for my 110 after coming across a posting on the product and reading the website. Can't say that I've tried it yet, because I'm still repairing some rust areas in my rig, but I bought enough to use on all of the horizontal surfaces including the transmission tunnel and the cargo area.

I plan to install automotive carpeting on top of it to lower noise and increase "comfort".
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  #16  
Old July 11th, 2014, 09:10 PM
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I think i'm gonna look into that universal Bedrug idea. Looks like it has the thickness to help insulate and the durability to be used on the floor. Thanks for the link!
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  #17  
Old July 11th, 2014, 10:21 PM
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Kenny- you need to do the underside of the floors with something with a mylar or similar facing to reflect the heat. Doing it inside now will have minimal effect. Dark colored bedliner acts as a heats sink and makes it worse. FWIW the Exmoor/Wright Offroad stuff doesn't dissipate the heat as Josh eludes to. On the contrary, it's insulation to block it.
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  #18  
Old July 11th, 2014, 11:01 PM
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I agree with Uncle Doug. I'd start with a heat shield between the cat's and the floor board underneath the vehicle. Bend up some thin sheet metal, and tack/screw it to the framing.
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  #19  
Old July 11th, 2014, 11:20 PM
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Heat reduction

I added two layers of Dynamat Extreme to the tunnel, bulkhead, floor, seat boxes and doors - plus added the Exmoor matting plus LR signature floor mats. It dramatically reduced both the heat and road noise.
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  #20  
Old July 11th, 2014, 11:51 PM
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I've used this stuff on the inside of the tunnel and under the floor boards.
http://www.designengineering.com/cat...und-insulation
It's has a super strong self adhesive, a layer of insulation and a layer of aluminum.
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