Flat Towing D-90 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 6th, 2007, 10:41 AM
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Gary Grace
1995 D-90
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Smile Flat Towing D-90

Hello,

I am new to this site. I have read some of the threads and you all seem like a very knowledgeable bunch. Maybe someone has an answer for me. I wanted to flat tow my D-90. I have heard that there can be issues with the tranny output bearing starving for oil. The owners manual says to just put the transfer case and transmission in nuetral. Anyone with experience towing these rigs? Thanks for any help you can give.
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  #2  
Old June 6th, 2007, 10:47 AM
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Daniel Brown
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you must tow the truck on a flat bed tow truck. All wheel drive. You will destroy your transmission if you do not.
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  #3  
Old June 6th, 2007, 11:09 AM
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David Marchand
'97 D90 SW Arles
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Use a tow dolly and disconnect the rear driveshaft.
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  #4  
Old June 6th, 2007, 01:06 PM
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Pete Bethke
'95 D-90 SW #305
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For what it's worth I just purchased a '95 d90sw that the original owner used exclusively to flat tow behind his RV. The truck came to me with approximately 36k miles of which 5k-10k was actual driving with the balance all being miles that were flat towed. Original owner didn't have any issues with it and I have all the service records. I know I have read many of the posts with concerns/problems with this but I wonder if anyone that has made the posts has experienced a failure first hand as a result of this? There are allot of people here that are way more knowledgable than me so this is only my .02 worth/personal experience. I would be interested to hear from anyone that has had a problem specifically associated to the flat tow.
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  #5  
Old June 6th, 2007, 03:35 PM
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Scott Falter
95 D90
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Problems I have had with flat towing. While driving the wheels have turned to full right or left and drag even though the steering wheel is unlocked. Have to stop and turn the wheels back to straight manually so they don't drag. This could be a caster problem do to slight lift. When i installed the 3 link and added caster the problem went away. Before i installed the 3 link i would lock the steering wheel in the straight position. This only caused the wheels to drag in the corners. Which did not bother me.

Second problem.
I had a crappy tow bar (the ones they sell for 250.00 and rate for 7000 lbs) . Some one cut me off which made me have to slam on the brakes so i would miss them. The tow bar broke and the rover rear ended my motor homes spare tire rack. No damage except a slightly bent camel trophy bumper. Fixed this by making a heavy duty tow bar.

Third problem
On the way back from the desert my front diff exploded. This was proble due to previous damage from the weekend but it drove great before i towed it. When i disconnected it and backed it up the diff exploded and left me a nice black puddle of oil in my drive way.

It seems to tow great flat except for these little problems which were more the likely my own fault.
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  #6  
Old June 6th, 2007, 05:09 PM
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J. Michael McCaig
D90 ST, LR110, Series IIa, RRC
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I used to flat tow my series behind a pick-up camper with no issues. I had lock-out hubs front and rear which prevented any issues with the drivetrain. AVM makes lock-out hubs for the D90 style axle if you want to go that route.
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  #7  
Old June 6th, 2007, 05:39 PM
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Barry O'Mahony
97 D-90 SW LE
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Flat towing is OK with TC in neutral. DO NOT tow on a two wheel dolly without disconnecting the driveshaft - it'll seem to work OK with the TC in neutral, but the TC is not designed to have the two axles turning at wildly different speeds.
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  #8  
Old June 6th, 2007, 09:21 PM
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David
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http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...eferrerid=2805
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  #9  
Old January 3rd, 2011, 09:50 PM
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Rob Evans
1997 Beluga Black D90 ST
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Flat Tow Auto. '97 D90?

I hate to bring this string back alive but I would love to talk to someone who regularly Flat Tows an Automatic for extended periods. Extended periods of say 2 to 3 hr stints...say 200 to 300 miles. I want to Flat Tow my '97 Auto. D90 behind my RV. I have read many of the threads associated with Flat Towing and I am concerned about what is the best way to handle. I have a trailer but it is hard to deal with once you get where your going. I called my dealership in JAX, Florida to get their "take" on the issue.
I would think someone out there does this on a regular basis. Prior to purchasing I had much different comments about Flat Towing. It was commonly done and was non-issue. So...I sold my '06 Jeep and moved up to the '97 D90.
If I had to do so, and/or it was recommended, I could Flat Tow it say at 200 to 300 miles intervals, unsnap to FT Hitch and drive it around the gas station to circulate oil... then reconnect.
I am new to this environment and would rather be safe than sorry.
Any insight would be helpful.
Thanks,
Rob

'97 D90 ST Beluga Black
'07 LR3
'80 International Scout -Turbo Diesel
'69 Volvo 1800S
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Regular stuff...stingrays, skateboards and unicycles
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  #10  
Old January 3rd, 2011, 10:09 PM
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shane cates
94 d90
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Mine is taking at least one long trip behind the RV this summer. Its going on a 16' trailer. I just don't feel good about the other options although I'm sure it probably would be fine.
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  #11  
Old January 5th, 2011, 08:41 PM
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Tony Fannin
'94 D-90 #491
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I've flat towed mine behind the RRC many times. As far as 300 miles a couple of them. I like to play it safe so I just crawl under and disconnect the driveshafts at the diffs and strap them to the frame out of the way. When I get to where I'm going <10mins and I'm wheeling.
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  #12  
Old January 6th, 2011, 11:48 AM
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Dana Hammersley
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Some people need to quit making dogmatic statments without facts. I have flat towed my Defender many miles behind a RV. Just put the diff and tranny in neutral and go for it. I too have had my wheel turn to far right or left and drag but only when I turn really sharp like a turn around.

This is directly from the manual word for word.

1. Turn starter to the first postion to unlock the steering and leave in this postion while the vehicle is being towed.
2. Set the main gearbox and transfer case to neutral.
3. Ensure that the differential lock is in the unlock postion.
4. Securethe towing attachment to the vehicle.
5. Release parking brake.
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  #13  
Old January 6th, 2011, 08:59 PM
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Rob Evans
1997 Beluga Black D90 ST
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Hammertime,
I appreciate that. I have heard so many different things. Do you have a special tow bar assembly? I intend to install...if the brackets they recommend work, a falcon II tow bar. I bought the Tow Bar...they have to order the brackets. The Falcon catalog shows brackets for a '97 D90 so...I am going to give it a go and buy the brackets.
Thanks again.
Rob
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  #14  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 12:08 PM
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Wes
'95 90 SW #234
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Has anyone used a tow dolly from U-Haul? My tow vehicle does not have the rating for an auto transport trailer where all 4 wheels would not spin. So, the only option I have (besides shipping it) is to have the 2 front wheels secured to a the dolly, and the 2 rear spinning down the road. I need to do this for about 2000 miles, but not sure if there would be too much difference between 300 miles vs 2000 miles. I would disconnect the rear drive shaft, set the diff lock in the unlocked position, put t-case in neutral. This is for an automatic transmission.
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  #15  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 01:11 PM
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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I have not used a tow dolly but can tell you that once you disconnect the rear driveshaft there is nothing else to do. The rear will just spin away. It will be just fine.
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  #16  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 01:34 PM
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Dave McHenry
1984 Landrover 90 CSW
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The jeep guys just put the transfer case in netural and tow all day long why is a defender different? Would it cause the bearing to become oil starved? I don't flat tow as I have a full trailer but I would just like to know.
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  #17  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 07:33 PM
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Gary
97 SW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midturtle View Post
Has anyone used a tow dolly from U-Haul? My tow vehicle does not have the rating for an auto transport trailer where all 4 wheels would not spin. So, the only option I have (besides shipping it) is to have the 2 front wheels secured to a the dolly, and the 2 rear spinning down the road. I need to do this for about 2000 miles, but not sure if there would be too much difference between 300 miles vs 2000 miles. I would disconnect the rear drive shaft, set the diff lock in the unlocked position, put t-case in neutral. This is for an automatic transmission.
I didn't like the U-haul tow dolly because there was an ever-present danger of the dolly fenders coming in to contact with sides of the the car being towed on sharp turns.

The turning contact problem may not be as much of an issue towing a Defender since it is narrower than the old '70's cars I towed at the time.

I've never towed Defenders with anything other than a regular car trailer. YMMV.
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  #18  
Old July 13th, 2011, 12:02 AM
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Wes
'95 90 SW #234
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oh, and another thing...I have ARB rear lockers, will this be adversely affected?

Also, what is the best and easiest way to disconnect the driveshaft? Disconnect at the diff, or the t-case?

Thanks.
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  #19  
Old July 13th, 2011, 12:51 AM
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evilfij
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have to do it at the diff and bungy/tie the loose end to the frame etc. ARBs won't matter as they act as open diffs when not engaged.
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  #20  
Old July 13th, 2011, 07:10 AM
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Mike
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If the transmission doesn't pump oil unless the motor is running then I would take the transmission out of the mix. Seems like the safe consensus, if you want to flat tow, is to take off both shafts and keep the steering unlocked in town and then locked on the highway?
I knew there was another reason I got that trailer.
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