Flasher relay for LED blinker lights - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old June 2nd, 2010, 12:40 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Full List of LED's

Sorry to harp on this. Want to double check before I place the order. If one would want to replace all exterior and interior lights with LED (except headlights and dome lights which I already have) then the full list would look something like this (see below)? Would it be the same for a 95 Defender as a 97 or are any of the bulbs different between the models?

What bulb is used for the clock?

Also, which resistor kits should I get? I need flasher AND resistor kits, right?

On a side note, I used two 4210-xHP6 (6 high powered leds) for my dome lights and they're blindingly bright. I'm very happy with them.

EXTERIOR:

2 Front Parking: 1156-X45-T
2 Front Signal: 1156-X45-T
2 Front Side Marker: WLED-NW6
2 Rear Signal: 1156-X45-T
2 Rear Brake: 1156-X45-T
2 Rear Side Marker: WLED-NW6
2 License Plate: White BA9S-W4-12V
1 Reverse Light: 1156-X45-T
LED Bulb Flasher unit, What kind, how many?
Load Resistor Kit, What kind, how many?

INTERIOR:

1 Fuel: WLED-G6
1 Temp: WLED-G6
1 Tach: 74-GHP3
2 Speedo: B8.5D-G
Rear Defroster: 74G
Rear Wiper: 74G
Rear Wiper Washer: 74G
Hazard: 74R
Clock: ?
Heater Lever: 74-GHP3
Blower Lever: 74-GHP3
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  #22  
Old June 2nd, 2010, 02:30 PM
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Exterior:
count / location / part # / comments
2 Front Parking & Signal, Amber 67-A9
2 Front side marker, Amber WLED-A6
2 Rear side marker, Red WLED-R6
2 Tail/brake, 1157-R24 wide
4 Front and Rear Signal, 1156-A24 wide
1 Back up (reverse), 1156-W24 wide
2 License Plate, White BA9S-W4-12V
1 Flasher Relay for LED, CF13GL-02 (this goes in the dash fuse panel. There is an ECR link earlier in this chain)
2 Load Resistors RL-650 (I needed one for each front blinker, connected in line right behind the bulb socket)

Interior:
count / location / part # / comments
2 Fuel & Temp, WLED-G6
3 Tach and heater and blower lights, 74-GHP3
2 Speedo, B8.5D-G (see photo)
1 Dome light, 1156-cw18-t
I didnt change out the clock bulb

I think the bulbs are different in the 97 for the speedo, see attached. Not sure about the other gauges. My truck is a ST so I dont have the other switches, defroster, etc.
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  #23  
Old July 10th, 2010, 04:37 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Reese.

I got my LED order yesterday and I have installed a couple of the lights so far. I have a couple of questions.

Do I only need one LED flasher relay for all 4 signals? I ordered 4 flasher relays.
Does the rear signals not need relays and resistors?
I fitted one dash light and the dash lights stopped working. Which fuse controls the dash lights?

Thanks!
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  #24  
Old July 10th, 2010, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Reese.

I got my LED order yesterday and I have installed a couple of the lights so far. I have a couple of questions.

• Do I only need one LED flasher relay for all 4 signals? I ordered 4 flasher relays.
• Does the rear signals not need relays and resistors?
• I fitted one dash light and the dash lights stopped working. Which fuse controls the dash lights?

Thanks!
See ECR instructions on the install of the flasher relay:
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/LEDflasher.html
You only need one.

My 97 ST only needed the resistor on the two front blinkers. I installed these inline right behind the plug for each light. I have no idea if this is normal or just the way mine worked out.

Im not sure which fuse is the dash lights but it should be marked. I dont know why the lights would stop working. Did they work if you put the old bulb back in?
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  #25  
Old July 10th, 2010, 05:06 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I will return the 3 extra relays then. I will install tomorrow and see how it goes. I couldn't find the dash light fuse, only the fuses for the items the dash indicates (headlights, etc). I will pull all of them I guess. I put the old bulb back in and they are still not working so I assume its the fuse.

I also wasn't able to remove the side markers on the right side. They are corroded stuck. Should I drill them out? There is a threaded insert that goes into the body that I hope not to ruin in the process. I looked for a part number for this but I couldn't find it in the Parts manual. I assume I will have to replace this too once I drill out the screws?

I ordered the 1156-X45-T bulb that has 40 leds on each for the signals and front markers. Damn they are bright!
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  #26  
Old July 10th, 2010, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
I will return the 3 extra relays then. I will install tomorrow and see how it goes. I couldn't find the dash light fuse, only the fuses for the items the dash indicates (headlights, etc). I will pull all of them I guess.

I also wasn't able to remove the side markers on the right side. They are corroded stuck. Should I drill them out? There is a threaded insert that goes into the body that I hope not to ruin in the process. I looked for a part number for this but I couldn't find it in the Parts manual. I assume I will have to replace this too once I drill out the screws?

I ordered the 1156-X45-T bulb that has 40 leds on each for the signals and front markers. Damn they are bright!
Are the screws spinning or will they not budge? If they are stuck you might spray them with WD-40 overnight.
Also, be sure to check the second row of small fuses way up high in the fuse panel in the center console. I think the dash light fuse is up there.
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  #27  
Old July 10th, 2010, 05:13 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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The screws spin but don't come out.

Will check the other fuse panel.

Thanks!
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  #28  
Old July 10th, 2010, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
The screws spin but don't come out.

Will check the other fuse panel.

Thanks!
Looking at the ECR link again, the upper row of fuses are more obvious on the '95 than the '97.
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  #29  
Old July 11th, 2010, 11:30 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Looks like I have different bulb bases on my break lights versus the rest. I ordered the BAY15D sockets and it turns out only the two rear break lights are BAY15D. The rest are BA15S. I will have to send back and reorder. The tail lights are nice and bright though.

Good news is my dash lights are back on. Bad news is I almost started a fire. I got the 74-G bulbs for dash buttons (rear window wiper, wash and demister, warning signal and clock). When I replaced the Window wiper button bulb the wire started smoking and melted and the LED bulb melted as well! It took about 5 seconds to melt. So I guess I need an new harness for the Rear window wiper button. I don't understand why it would melt? Why didn't the fuse blow? I thought the 74G was the correct match? See picture (left one is LED, right one is Rover). It says on the LED package that these bulbs are polarized. Does that have anything to do with it?
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  #30  
Old July 27th, 2010, 02:02 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Reese.

I can't get the front signal markers nor the rear reverse gear light to work with the LEDs. They work fine with incandescents but as soon as i put the LED in they don't work. Any ideas? Do I need resistors for these as well? This conversion hasn't exactly gone smoothly for me.
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  #31  
Old July 27th, 2010, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Reese.

I can't get the front signal markers nor the rear reverse gear light to work with the LEDs. They work fine with incandescents but as soon as i put the LED in they don't work. Any ideas? Do I need resistors for these as well? This conversion hasn't exactly gone smoothly for me.

I assumed all 4 blinkers are blinking at once rapidly, faster than normal.
Before I installed the front LED signals in mine, I was running LED in the rear and still had the original bulbs in the front, everything worked. As soon as I put the front LED in, they all 4 blinked rapid which is what the system does when it thinks a bulb is out. There is not enough power draw in the system with 4 LEDs in. Thats where the resistors come in. They draw enough juice to trick the system not to think a bulb is out. When I initially put in the resistors, one behind each plug in the front, I did not get them snapped on to the wire good enough and I still had the rapid blink. I squeezed the crimp connector hard with some pliars and the system worked fine. Point is the resistor needs a good firm connection to make everything work.

Honestly, my reverse light was a straight plug and play. See if you may have a bad LED and try one of the other bulbs with the same base.

I just bought a 97 SW so i guess I am going to need to understand the rear dash bulbs now for the defroster and rear wiper.
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  #32  
Old July 27th, 2010, 05:07 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Reese.

According to the Superbright guy it has something to do with polarity. There seems to be two different kind of sockets for the Defender bulbs and I have both kinds on D90. My rear brake lights are BAY15D kind. These work just fine with the LEDs. The rest are BA15S and these don't work with the LED's because the LEDs are polarized. I either have to switch the cables around or get BAY15D sockets for all my lights. Does everyone have two kinds of sockets? Any reason the brake lights need to be different? Will I ruin something by rewiring or changing sockets?

If I remember correctly the BAY15D (rear brake lights) socket holder have three prongs and the others two. The BAY15D bulb base has the location nubs offset from each other (one is near the bottom, the other higher up) while a BA15S has the location nubs level.

------ Follow up post added July 27th, 2010 04:42 PM ------

Looks like Front Marker, Front and Rear indicator, Reverse light all use the AMR1421 Bulb Holder. The Rear Brake lights use the AMR1422 Bulb Holder. What are the difference? Seems like the Polarized LED Bulb works in AMR1422 but not in AMR1421. Can I simply rewire all lights with AMR1422 Bulb Holders? Any drawback to doing that?
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  #33  
Old July 27th, 2010, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Reese.

According to the Superbright guy it has something to do with polarity. There seems to be two different kind of sockets for the Defender bulbs and I have both kinds on D90. My rear brake lights are BAY15D kind. These work just fine with the LEDs. The rest are BA15S and these don't work with the LED's because the LEDs are polarized. I either have to switch the cables around or get BAY15D sockets for all my lights. Does everyone have two kinds of sockets? Any reason the brake lights need to be different? Will I ruin something by rewiring or changing sockets?

If I remember correctly the BAY15D (rear brake lights) socket holder have three prongs and the others two. The BAY15D bulb base has the location nubs offset from each other (one is near the bottom, the other higher up) while a BA15S has the location nubs level.

------ Follow up post added July 27th, 2010 04:42 PM ------

Looks like Front Marker, Front and Rear indicator, Reverse light all use the AMR1421 Bulb Holder. The Rear Brake lights use the AMR1422 Bulb Holder. What are the difference? Seems like the Polarized LED Bulb works in AMR1422 but not in AMR1421. Can I simply rewire all lights with AMR1422 Bulb Holders? Any drawback to doing that?
Look at the bulbs I ordered. The tail lights are a 1157 bulb, different from the others that are 1156. These numbers define the bulb type and connection. It looks like you ordered 1156 for tail lights. I ordered 1157-R24 wide. They worked great for me.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...x24.htm#photos
Notice on the buld drawing the way the pins are alligned. They need to be offset like the 1157.
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  #34  
Old July 27th, 2010, 06:11 PM
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I now have 1157-R45-T in my Rear Brake Lights because those fit that bulb holder. They are working fine with the LED tower bulbs. The problem is that those are the only lights I can get to work. All the other lights use a different bulb holder which I tried 1156 but they do not work in any the AMR1421 bulb holders. Sounds like its time to call the Electrical guy.
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  #35  
Old July 27th, 2010, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
I now have 1157-R45-T in my Rear Brake Lights because those fit that bulb holder. They are working fine with the LED tower bulbs. The problem is that those are the only lights I can get to work. All the other lights use a different bulb holder which I tried 1156 but they do not work in any the AMR1421 bulb holders. Sounds like its time to call the Electrical guy.
Last comment would be to make sure you have all the 1156 bulds in right. They are polarized and there is a right and wrong. I just hate to think of ever cutting on the harness.
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  #36  
Old October 11th, 2010, 01:46 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Reese.

So I finally had the electrical guy come out and he figured it out. The wires on all lights (front markers, front and rear turn signals and reverse light) where all wired backwards. This is fine with a regular bulb but will not work with an LED since they are polarized and only work one way. He switched the position on the wires on each light and now it's working beautifully. I used the resistors for the front signals only.

The only strange thing I noticed was that the bulb in my euro front marker touches the glass but the bulb in my front signals has more than 1/2" of room. Very bizarre since the euro marker and signals are essentially the same lamp housing just different color lenses. Is it the bulb bases pushing the front markers further into the housing? It shouldn't matter since they don't heat up I just thought it was odd. I'm very happy otherwise and the 45-led towers are super bright indeed! Next up is HID headlights and interior/dash led conversion.
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  #37  
Old October 11th, 2010, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Reese.

So I finally had the electrical guy come out and he figured it out. The wires on all lights (front markers, front and rear turn signals and reverse light) where all wired backwards. This is fine with a regular bulb but will not work with an LED since they are polarized and only work one way. He switched the position on the wires on each light and now it's working beautifully. I used the resistors for the front signals only.

The only strange thing I noticed was that the bulb in my euro front marker touches the glass but the bulb in my front signals has more than 1/2" of room. Very bizarre since the euro marker and signals are essentially the same lamp housing just different color lenses. Is it the bulb bases pushing the front markers further into the housing? It shouldn't matter since they don't heat up I just thought it was odd. I'm very happy otherwise and the 45-led towers are super bright indeed! Next up is HID headlights and interior/dash led conversion.
Good to hear there was an explanation.
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  #38  
Old October 18th, 2010, 12:13 AM
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I swapped out the facia panel controls today (rear window defrost, rear window wiper, rear window cleaner) with the 75xHP LEDs. They are very bright. Perfect for the dash. Remember to make sure that there is only one wire on each side for all the press fit bulbs. Mine wrapped around. I painfully learned from experience that they had to be trimmed. I also swapped out the hazard. The clock had a mystery bulb which I have to source and the cigar lighter ring needs a 90 degree bulb.

My hazard switch keeps popping out and there is nothing on it to hold it inside the facia. Every time its pushed it comes out. Am I missing something? Most other buttons have a feature to hold them in place.

Here's pic of the clock bulb. What type of bulb is this? BA7? BA9?
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  #39  
Old May 5th, 2011, 10:26 PM
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OK.

I installed ECR LED turn signals in rear and Safari Dust turn signals in the front. I tried several LED relays (1. the one ECR provides with their LED kit and 2. LED EP-36) as well as installed a Superbright RL-650 load resistor behind each of the front turn signals.

The result...only the rear turn signals work!

I replaced the front LED turn signals (with resistors) with the 2 original turn signals and all 4 turn signals worked perfectly (ECR LEDs in rear and originals in front).

I plan to try the Safari Dust LEDs in the rear to cancel out the issue that the Safari Dust turn signals are not working properly. I assume they are working fine.

I also assume that the resistors are working properly. I clamped them down good and they heat up when the turn signal is supposed to signal...but it doesn't signal?...

Any suggestions?... sure wish I could make all 4 LEDs turn signals work properly.
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  #40  
Old May 5th, 2011, 10:30 PM
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Are you going to have extra LED's?
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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