first oil change after breaking in new engine - Defender Source
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Old April 30th, 2010, 12:35 AM
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Chris Davis
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first oil change after breaking in new engine

I am currently using Royal Purple Engine Break In Oil, which is a 10/30 oil, and have about 200 miles so far. Things are good, but a little low oil pressure (light comes on at idle) which is what it is. My front cover is not perfect, nor are the gears, but I am getting about 7-10 most the time at idle (hot) and in the 20's PSI when 2000-3000 rpm. Going to switch to a 10/40 or so for my first oil change and want to use a oil with a good shear rating.

Some of you folks I know have gone nuts in researching oils--most the outcome I saw was one with a high shear rating. There are so many threads that pop up with so many opinions that I am a little overwhelmed but I also know there are some that have a good consensus.

One that I have heard good things about but found very little info on was the Rotella T6 synthetic. Any of you run it? I have usually been a Mobile 1 fan, but I am not "brand loyal" as much as quality loyal. Price is secondary (but not when it is $8-10 qt) and would love to know what your leanings are from those that have looked into oils rather recently.

Sorry to open this can of worms...
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  #2  
Old April 30th, 2010, 01:36 AM
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Mobil 1 0W-40 or Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage

Sorry no experience with Rotella.
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Old April 30th, 2010, 06:53 AM
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Millions of vehicles have been using standard issue Rotella 15w-40 for billions of miles. That kind of statistic trumps opinion in my book any day.
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  #4  
Old April 30th, 2010, 07:14 AM
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I've been running Rottella synthetic in 3 different rigs (300tdi RRC, 2.5na SIIA, Ford 7.3l PS) and have had no issues. Started using it as the local truck stop has it in buckets other wise I had been using Mobile one or Amsoil. Can't tell the difference. Just change the damn stuff when you should.

Your oil pressure sounds a little low for new even with break in oil. Did you use a Genuine part gasket in the oil pump? The aftermarket versions seem to be very much too thick which will cause lowish oil pressure.
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Old April 30th, 2010, 07:35 AM
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I also find the oil pressure light troubling and probably not oil related.
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Old April 30th, 2010, 10:40 AM
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Yeah, I hear ya on the oil light, so let me give you a little background there. Keep in mind this is not the crank driven pump which is much better--it is the distributor driven pump that has always been notorious as having some low pressures. The truck was rebuilt and spotless--I personally did it and made sure of it. New bearings throughout except the cam bearings (used block) which were really nice--I had a set of new ones but even my machinist said they were so nice he didn't want to remove them. Oil passages were spotless and I went through every one of them. New genuine gaskets throughout. Oil pickup included and was spotless. My radiator was cleaned and I went through my oil lines as well. K&N oil filter. Reused my front cover which had some wear in the gear area but not too bad--clearance of gears above lip checked out. Genuine oil pump gasket. Gears showed wear but not too bad. New pump base. The oil light only comes on at idle which is set at about 900rpm, partially to help with the low pressure. Pump pressure somewhere in the 7-10 range at idle, 24@2000 rpm with hot oil after freeway driving (oil pressure over 40 when engine is cold, hence you can see why I would like to switch to a 40 weight asap). As another potential fix, I drilled my pressure relieve valve cap and threaded it for a 10mmx1.25 thread bolt to be able to adjust the pressure relieve spring rate (as recommended in Power Tuning a Rover V8) but this has not made a difference in my case (see picture)--it could be that I have not tightened the bolt enough, but I am about 1/2" compression on the spring and that should have shown a difference so I did not continue.

The Royal Purple oil, when hot, sure seems thin, even for a 10/30 but I am not second guessing that. I don't want to go into a grand amount of "sorting this out" until I change the oil one time and see what the pressure are. Rarely does any distributor driven pump get more than 12-14psi at idle that I have seen which means I am not that far off (correct me if I am wrong distributor driven pump guys running gauges!).

So let's assume all my oil passages and bearings are as they should be (since I 'aint opening up the engine and I was very careful on assembly). Let's also assume the pump base is good (since it is new and there is no wear on it). That leaves the front cover (PITA cause of $$), the pump gears (only have about 30K miles on them and, although not great, not bad), the gasket, the pressure relief spring or the break-in oil being too thin. I don't think I am missing anything, am I? So all that said, I have been/am checking out the pressure relief spring rate. Next up is the oil change (hence this post) and if that does not bring me into more than acceptable pressures, then I am going to replace the gasket (and possibly the gears) on the pump. After that, I will try and source a new, intermediate front cover with the crank driven pump, but that is a bit of work since I have to change all my ancillary locations/pulleys and come up with a new way to run my York OB Air compressor.

Think I will start with the oil.

I have Mobile 1 10/40 in my garage but they only make it in a "high mileage" rating and it makes me a little uneasy since I don't fully understand all the additives and conditioners that they have added although I like the HTHS rating of 4.06 and from there site they recommend it of severe usage, multiple owner, blah blah blah. Not that big of a deal since I change my oils regularly.

All that said, if anyone knows more to check out in regards to my oil pressure, please chime in--I think I have been really thorough, but heck, I still have low oil pressure.
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  #7  
Old April 30th, 2010, 11:27 AM
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I have run rotella 5w40 synthetic as it is cheap at walmart. It is a dino based synthetic not a pure synthetic, but it seems fine and the only thing I noticed is on dirty engines it really cleaned them out (and caused a little lifter chatter on start up on my one disco).
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Old April 30th, 2010, 01:23 PM
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The Rotella 5W-40 is a good deal and should work well. The higher ZDDP levels in the diesel engine oils are a good idea for the flat tappets in these antique engine designs....

If you really care, start getting oil analysis done to monitor wear levels. Wear levels in these antique engine is quite scary high.
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Old April 30th, 2010, 09:18 PM
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Rotella or the Mobil 10w40 Hi Mileage.
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Old April 30th, 2010, 11:00 PM
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I can donate a better front cover if you want to take the time to change it. You should have asked me when you were building. A shame you reused the old one. Did you reuse the old pickup tube? I may send another one of those as well.
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Old May 1st, 2010, 08:56 AM
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what about that little gasket on the pickup tube could that impact oil pressure
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Old May 1st, 2010, 10:22 AM
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Jim,

I will totally take you up on that front cover. As much of a pain it is to change, I will as I didn't go to all this work to build another engine to have something as important as low oil pressure. I have been running your chip as well--it has been working great!

I'll pm you about the cover
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Old May 1st, 2010, 11:06 AM
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How often do those gears need replacing under normal circumstances and maintenance I replaced mine when I pull the front cover off but the old ones looked fine little to no wear at 114k?
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Old May 1st, 2010, 11:12 AM
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Okay I will round one up for you. On one condition. You have to remove the oil pan when you replace the front cover. And test the pickup tube for problems. I still wonder if it is sucking air somehow. Seal off the gasket area with a solid piece. Invert it and fill it with gasoline to find any leaks in the solder joints. Make a new thicker gasket when it is reassembled. Even if I send you a different pickup tube you need to test yours to see if it was a problem. Might as well test the one I send as well.

Did the replacement engine get new cam bearings?
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Old May 1st, 2010, 12:12 PM
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I promise to test it. As for the cam bearings, they were not replaced but they looked very good. I gave a new set to Havana Machine who does most of the rover machining in this area, and they strongly recommended against it as they thought they were in fantastic condition. I was told that the block was a low mile one from a hydrolocked truck and I had it inspected, pressured tested and bored.

Thanks Pendy--very appreciated.
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Old May 2nd, 2010, 12:21 PM
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Yesterday was a beautiful lazy day, so I dropped the oil pan to check out the pick up--made a blank-off plate and checked it for leaks--it was fine. Reinstalled and switched the oil to the 15/40 Rotella T. Pressure went up a couple psi but still lower than any of us would want. Decided on the Rotella T 15/40 regular dino since I change my oil regularly, so many people have sworn by it, and it comes in 2.5 gallon containers at wallmart for cheap.
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