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  #21  
Old August 9th, 2007, 11:42 AM
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Scott T
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Anyone ever record the under hood temps in a Defender under "worst case scenerio" conditions? I suspec that they might be too high for this idea, but maybe a different tempurature "discharge" head could be used. in any even, the idea is to put an automatic extinghuiser in the engine bay, like boats use...

FireBoy-Xintex

Sea Fire

Video of How they Work

These trigger at 175 degrees, would we need a higher trigger temp?
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  #22  
Old August 9th, 2007, 07:50 PM
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Robert Ragland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepeytr

These trigger at 175 degrees, would we need a higher trigger temp?

Today my floor panels would have set that off.
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  #23  
Old August 10th, 2007, 10:05 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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Wonder if anyone ever spent the time to install a full supression system. They sell em at any race shop for about 250 for a good one. Pull the handle and cabin and engine bay turns into a giant cream puff. At a race once I saw this guys nephew pull the handle when we was playing with this his 175K posche gt3 cup car in the parking lot. Not recommeded for kids i guess. Anyhow i've never seen a d-90 fire but i would imagine that this would be the fastest way of putting it out maybe minimizing the damage done. just a thought.
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  #24  
Old August 10th, 2007, 11:30 AM
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pcdefender
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Lightbulb Safecraft Halon 1211 Extinguisher and Bracket

I did a lot of research on this a few months back and ended up choosing SAFECRAFT 2.5lb HALON. It was pricey ($135.00), but its made from polished stainless steel, uses Halon 1211 which wont damage or leave residue in engine compartment, AND it looks slick… The idea is that I wont need to open the hood to put the fire out--just discharge under the wheel well and into the engine compartment and the HALON starves the fire of oxygen--no mess, and no burned flesh in the process. Once discharged it can be serviced (refilled, etc.) by SAFECRAFT in CA. I was assured that there is no shortage of HALON at there disposal because of there ability to recycle...

http://www.safecraft.com/product_page_detail.asp?ProductID=100&ProductCatID =1&ProductSubCatID=7&menu=&Search=

There is an optional “quick release” billet aluminum bracket here:
http://www.safecraft.com/product_page_detail.asp?ProductID=49&ProductCatID= 1&ProductSubCatID=11&menu=&Search=

*I will post an installed pic here shortly.

ALSO: My initial research lead me to the LIFELINE ZERO 360 which is manufactured in Europe. I found seveal sources, but the shipping and VAT costs doubled the cost of the extinguisher---so I passed. They have very functional, heavy duty stuff, but the cost is just too much.

http://www.lifeline-fire.co.uk/firee...motorsport.htm
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  #25  
Old April 20th, 2008, 09:16 PM
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David
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdb
You might also consider the Hawke ABCDK AllFire Designer Foam.
Here's an RV website that discusses the various choices and the Hawke looked the best to me from a cleanup, cost and emulsifying petroleum products:

http://www.aonrecreation.com/ardhome...0Extinguishers

Clark

Follow-up Post:

I thought this was relevant too:

http://macthefireguy.com/34_fire_fac..._save_your.htm
I've been wanting to find an acceptable extinguisher for some time, and I've done some research in various places. I also found the first post above to be quite informative, as it details what the various types of extinguishers are all about. Like the author of the article, it appeared to me that the AllFire foam was the best all around answer; however, as much looking as I've done, I simply can't seem to find where it can be purchased. That being said, the next best alternative seems to be the wetting agent. It's biodegradeable, non-toxic, cleans up with a wet rag, and is WAY less expensive than Halon or Halotron. The following two links have additional information:

http://cbs3.com/seenon/3.On.Your.2.592550.html

http://www.firstalert.com/tundra_fir...hing_spray.php

At first blush, it doesn't look like an aerosol can would be that "serious" a tool in fighting a fire (and I suppose if a Defender were buring long enough, it probably wouldn't be); however, for most jobs on which a hand-held extinguisher would work, this stuff seems to be pretty effective, and comparatively, very clean.......any thoughts?
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  #26  
Old April 21st, 2008, 08:54 AM
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David Marchand
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Be mindful that often one extinguisher is not enough.
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  #27  
Old April 21st, 2008, 09:01 AM
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Tyler
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Dry chem are what we have on the trucks at the station.
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  #28  
Old April 21st, 2008, 10:46 AM
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Len Bruffett
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I don't want to sound like a stick in the mud, but the first sign of any fire is usually smoke - electrical or otherwise. If the source of your fire is a major electrical short - by the time you know about it your wirining has already melted. If it is a fuel or burst oil line engine fire, you are likely driving down the road and not sitting at home next to the truck with a beer in one hand and a halon bottle in the other. So by the time you can stop, get out of the truck and extinguish the fire you can be rest assured the fire has already dammaged some elements of your wiring harnesses and anything else made of plastic or rubber under the hood. And again if you have a engine compartment fire, and use an automatic supression system that works flawlessly, some of your plastic (wiring) and rubber components will still suffer dammage because there was a fire under the hood in the first place to trigger the fire suppresion system. So you would still likely replace the dammaged wiring anyway. I carry a big ABC bottle in my truck to knock down and extinguish the flame... I'll just take my chances on any collateral dammage caused from the ABC.
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  #29  
Old April 21st, 2008, 11:09 AM
dnp
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David
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LenB
I don't want to sound like a stick in the mud, but the first sign of any fire is usually smoke - electrical or otherwise. If the source of your fire is a major electrical short - by the time you know about it your wirining has already melted. If it is a fuel or burst oil line engine fire, you are likely driving down the road and not sitting at home next to the truck with a beer in one hand and a halon bottle in the other. So by the time you can stop, get out of the truck and extinguish the fire you can be rest assured the fire has already dammaged some elements of your wiring harnesses and anything else made of plastic or rubber under the hood. And again if you have a engine compartment fire, and use an automatic supression system that works flawlessly, some of your plastic (wiring) and rubber components will still suffer dammage because there was a fire under the hood in the first place to trigger the fire suppresion system. So you would still likely replace the dammaged wiring anyway. I carry a big ABC bottle in my truck to knock down and extinguish the flame... I'll just take my chances on any collateral dammage caused from the ABC.
I agree that, in many instances, substantial damage will be done to various components by the time you start fighting the fire; however, there have been several posts on this forum where the fire was caught before too much damage was done. Those are instances where collateral damage from an ABC extinguisher would be a bummer...........I see both sides of this issue.
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  #30  
Old April 21st, 2008, 06:41 PM
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Matthew Carey
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Fire System

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=3156


How cool would the red fire T handle look on the dash of a d90?
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