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  #1  
Old July 7th, 2012, 10:00 AM
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Jason Zolezzi
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filter for bio diesel

What is the difference from the regular filter and where can I get one? I am working on switching my fuel lines.
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  #2  
Old July 7th, 2012, 11:29 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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I don't think there is such a thing as a biodiesel specific filter. No specific filter is required to run biodiesel. I upgraded the stock filter to a larger Stanadyne .2 micron filter but the stock is just fine. Just make sure to replace it more often initially if you have never run it before.
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Old July 7th, 2012, 12:32 PM
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Carl

Do you know anything about Green Drop Garage in Portland? One of the owners flagged me down the other day to talk about the 110...super nice guy.
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  #4  
Old July 7th, 2012, 12:42 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Never heard of them. Are they good?

Do you still have the 110?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Mexico
Carl

Do you know anything about Green Drop Garage in Portland? One of the owners flagged me down the other day to talk about the 110...super nice guy.
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Old July 7th, 2012, 12:55 PM
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i do, and going to keep it i think...i'm looking for a garage space to tear down/rebuild if you know of a place near downtown. i'm slowly losing my workspace at the distillery so i'd like to find something close.

at any rate, I don't know much about them but i'm going to visit next week and check out their work. the guy i met was really nice though.
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  #6  
Old July 7th, 2012, 01:16 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I sent you a PM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Mexico
i do, and going to keep it i think...i'm looking for a garage space to tear down/rebuild if you know of a place near downtown. i'm slowly losing my workspace at the distillery so i'd like to find something close.

at any rate, I don't know much about them but i'm going to visit next week and check out their work. the guy i met was really nice though.
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  #7  
Old July 7th, 2012, 06:08 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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so why do people say to change the filter?
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  #8  
Old July 7th, 2012, 07:29 PM
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Carl will speak more specifically, but in talking with him it's important to change the filter because they get mucked up with sediment...
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  #9  
Old July 7th, 2012, 08:42 PM
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Never ran biodiesel, but ran about 25,000 miles on straight veggie oil with my 300tdt wagon. I would strongly recommend a Vormax setup prior to the injection pump... There is a gauge to tell you how close to replacing the filter you are, and it uses readily available racor filters... Just my 2 pennies... http://www.plantdrive.com//index.php...products_id=55

Jay
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  #10  
Old July 7th, 2012, 08:59 PM
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Its just a precaution. if you've never run biodiesel before it is likely that it will dissolve diesel deposits in tank and fuel related components that will then end up in the fuel filter. Biodiesel is more solvent so it will essentially do a better job of cleaning and lubricating the engine and fuel system than regular diesel. I wouldn't worry too much about it and you should be fine changing your fuel fuel as often as you normally do. Just know that if it's feeling sluggish 6 months into it you might have a clogged filter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jayz
so why do people say to change the filter?
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  #11  
Old July 7th, 2012, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal
Its just a precaution. if you've never run biodiesel before it is likely that it will dissolve diesel deposits in tank and fuel related components that will then end up in the fuel filter. Biodiesel is more solvent so it will essentially do a better job of cleaning and lubricating the engine and fuel system than regular diesel. I wouldn't worry too much about it and you should be fine changing your fuel fuel as often as you normally do. Just know that if it's feeling sluggish 6 months into it you might have a clogged filter.
Biodiesel's solvent properties also degrade rubber fuel lines quickly as well, so if you start to see weepy fuel lines... Replace them ASAP!
jay
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  #12  
Old July 7th, 2012, 09:34 PM
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It all depends.

B100 will degrade rubber quickly but unless the fuel is constantly sitting in the lines it will take a very long time. My filler hose is rubber but I haven't gotten around to replacing it since its not showing signs of sweating yet. I replaced my fuel return lines after two years of running bio as I sprung a leak. If a hose gets soft and starts to sweat you know its rubber and not synthetic. All vehicles in the US after 1995 should have synthetic fuel hoses by law.

B20 will take much longer to degrade rubber hoses since its only 20% biodiesel. Most diesels can safely run B20 without making any alterations to the existing system.

Just check the lines more often the first year you run it just to be safe. Again, nothing to worry about.

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Originally Posted by genie90 View Post
Biodiesel's solvent properties also degrade rubber fuel lines quickly as well, so if you start to see weepy fuel lines... Replace them ASAP!
jay
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  #13  
Old July 7th, 2012, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal
It all depends.

B100 will degrade rubber quickly but unless the fuel is constantly sitting in the lines it will take a very long time. My filler hose is rubber but I haven't gotten around to replacing it since its not showing signs of sweating yet. I replaced my fuel return lines after two years of running bio as I sprung a leak. If a hose gets soft and starts to sweat you know its rubber and not synthetic. All vehicles in the US after 1995 should have synthetic fuel hoses by law.

B20 will take much longer to degrade rubber hoses since its only 20% biodiesel. Most diesels can safely run B20 without making any alterations to the existing system.

Just check the lines more often the first year you run it just to be safe. Again, nothing to worry about.
Totally agree- well put!

Jay
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  #14  
Old July 7th, 2012, 09:51 PM
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For those of you reading this that are considering biodiesel I just want to make it clear that you do NOT need expensive alterations made to your fuel system in order to run biodiesel. That is the big difference between biodiesel and SVO. The $400 Vormax system is needed for running SVO but you do NOT need this system to run biodiesel. You can use your existing system just as it is*(See above re rubber vs synthetic) You can also mix regular diesel and biodiesel as much as you like. The Stanadyne FM100 fuel filter I replaced my stock one with also has an optional heater that kicks in below 40F as well as a an optional water separator that attaches to the bottom of it. I got it here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by genie90 View Post
Never ran biodiesel, but ran about 25,000 miles on straight veggie oil with my 300tdt wagon. I would strongly recommend a Vormax setup prior to the injection pump... There is a gauge to tell you how close to replacing the filter you are, and it uses readily available racor filters... Just my 2 pennies... http://www.plantdrive.com//index.php...products_id=55

Jay
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  #15  
Old July 7th, 2012, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal
For those of you reading this that are considering biodiesel I just want to make it clear that you do NOT need expensive alterations made to your fuel system in order to run biodiesel. That is the big difference between biodiesel and SVO. The $400 Vormax system is needed for running SVO but you do NOT need this system to run biodiesel. You can use your existing system just as it is*(See above re rubber vs synthetic) You can also mix regular diesel and biodiesel as much as you like. The Stanadyne FM100 fuel filter I replaced my stock one with also has an optional heater that kicks in below 40F as well as a an optional water separator that attaches to the bottom of it. I got it here.
Totally disagree... Unless you make your own biodiesel you have no clue how clean the tanks are, and that there is no bacteria in your fuel. Your engine and injector pump are expensive pieces of machinery. Any extra protection is advisable. I'll just agree to disagree.
Jay
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Old July 7th, 2012, 11:06 PM
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Are you talking about bio diesel production quality or tank/system deposits causing a potential problem?

I've never heard of anyone getting a $400 SVO system to run biodiesel. That sounds like going overboard to me unless you intend to also run SVO. The 300tdi engine and fuel pumps are pretty crude pieces of machinery so they should not have any problems with commercially produced biodiesel. Brand new electronic diesel engines are different but for completely different reasons. I would be more worried about home made bio than commercially produced bio if I were you. In Oregon we get most of our biodiesel from Sequential Fuels and there is no issues with the quality of their fuel. I have run it for 4 years with no side effects or issues except for a sweaty fuel return line which I replaced. Summers I run B100 and winters I run B20 or B50. I changed my first couple of fuel filters a little bit more often but I didn't need to. You can safely run B20 without any issues. All Chevron diesel pumps around Portland are B5. Of course in a worst case scenario a heavily deposited 40 year old fuel tank could clog either of the fuel pumps but it should be a very unlikely exception. If you use a high quality commercially produced biodiesel a 300tdi engine should not have any issues due to biodiesel usage. The 300tdi engine loves biodiesel as proven by my most recent oil analysis. The only areas where something potentially could happen are pumps or lines. But if you want to go overboard and take precautions to protect you're engine don't let me stop you!
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  #17  
Old July 7th, 2012, 11:51 PM
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Bio diesel is about as user friendly as diesel ; no alterations needed and up you go. I run mine on svo and it's a different story... But something came up about bio diesel being more solvent? I just don't get how it can be solvent and lubricate at the same time?

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  #18  
Old July 8th, 2012, 12:14 AM
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Just as a general rule, how often should I be changing the fuel filter? After doing a little research I am totally confused about the different types, sizes and microns.
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  #19  
Old July 8th, 2012, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayz View Post
Just as a general rule, how often should I be changing the fuel filter? After doing a little research I am totally confused about the different types, sizes and microns.
I've heard some people do it every oil change (seems aggressive in my opinion), I do mine every-other...or approx every 6k miles.
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  #20  
Old July 8th, 2012, 01:28 AM
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I change mine once a year but I have the extra long size (higher capacity).

I also have a sedimentor which is long overdue in cleaning out. I was considering swapping out the sedimentor for a primary Stanadyne filter. The first filter would take the coarse stuff and the secondary would do the final filtering (.2 micron) but my engine seems quite happy as is so it probably not necessary.
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