Originally Posted by Zooraya
Ever since I got my 95 D90, the fan speed control has been finicky. Over time, it has downright failed. Basically, its either off, or kind of on. When it does turn on, its on full blast. And the only way that I was able to turn it on was to smash the lever all the way down.
Letting go of the lever resulted in the fan shutting off. Putting downward pressure on it turned it back on. If i was lucky, i was able to remove my hand and the heater would stay on for a while. I tried taking it apart, cleaning the contacts with contact cleaner and no luck.
Now, it doesn't even work at all. What's worse is that the lever itself gets extremely hot to the touch and in the down most on position I can even start to smell something burning due to the heat. Needless to say, I don't do that anymore.
Has anyone else had this symptom? Is the only solution to replace the entire lever mechanism? Is there a place to get one of those without taking a second loan out on a house?
There's actually a "board" (sort of like a circuit board, that the lever makes contact with) behind that lever. I had mine break/crack at one point, so it wasn't making contact in all places and would act as you describe (without the burning smell though).
I'd start there as it's a pretty simple circuit, and unscrew the fan speed lever right off the binnacle and have a look at it to inspect the board for cracks, low points, or spots where it is not making contact (don't disconnect the cable though, just unscrew to take out and inspect).
I ended up having an old/spare lever, so I actually just swapped the board (drilled the old rivets out from both units, riveted it into place on my existing fan speed control unit and all was good to go).
PS - keep in mind that even when functioning, the "2nd position" is very feeble at best...you may want to verify that the 2nd position actually isn't working or turning on the blower - sometimes it can be on, but deceiving since the blower barely spins up to move air.
Also it's probably worth testing the blower unit in the engine compartment as well....run 12V (and ground) directly to it via the pigtail using a couple of wires or bullet connectors (one male, one female). Make sure it spins up when running direct power without any issues/etc. This will just be a 1-speed test (full blast) but at least you can verify it's not an issue on the blower end with excessive resistance or similar.