Fan Shroud removal - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 17th, 2010, 06:01 PM
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Fan Shroud removal

I am in the process of replacing my oil cooler lines with SS and I can not get the fitting loose that holds the lower of the two lines in place. I can not figure out how to remove my fan shroud. I removed the upper shroud easy enough, but the bottom shroud is riveted in place with 4 rivets. They are in such a tight place I can't get a drill on them...and if I did, I don't think I could get a replacement rivet in after the install. I am the second owner, so I wonder if these rivets are stock or if the guy before me did it. The service manual doesn't say anything about rivets when it instructs you to remove the fan shroud/cowl.

Any thoughts?? Thanks.
Rob
(97 D90)
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  #2  
Old January 17th, 2010, 06:12 PM
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Unbolt the LH and RH top radiator clamps that hold the radiator down. Then lift it up some. The bottom radiator pins go through the shroud brackets. With the rad up some you can get the shroud out. Then slot the holes so next time it isn't such a PITA. (or drill the rivets and put screws in for next time).

This is on a 97 NAS 90 only
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  #3  
Old January 19th, 2010, 07:45 PM
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I removed the radiator and I am still unable to finesse the fan shroud out of the engine compartment. (I broke off one of the bottom tabs.).The shroud seems to be hung up on fan blades. Do I need to remove the fan and clutch. Are the LRT tools absolutely required to do this?
My radiator has a few busted fins (see attached pics). Otherwise it is in good condition and was running cool before I decided to replace the radiator hoses and SS oil cooler lines. Should I do anything to the radiator while I have it out? Pressure test, etc?
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  #4  
Old January 19th, 2010, 08:42 PM
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Step 2 of getting the shroud off is removing the clutch fan. Assumed you'd done that already.
-remove the upper shroud
-remove the clutch fan
-lift the rad
-remove lower shroud (then modify it)

If that were my rad I'd re-core it.

If you have a wrench that is big enough and thin enough ti get on the clutch fan nut, you do not need specail tools. If it is stuck, you may wish you had the tools though.
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  #5  
Old January 19th, 2010, 09:36 PM
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Hack method to get the fan clutch off is an big open end wrench or channel locks and a long screwdriver to wedge on the bolts in the back.
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Old January 19th, 2010, 11:23 PM
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I purchased a wrench at a bike shop that is the correct size and thin, I was in a bind and it worked pretty good and only cost $9
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Old January 21st, 2010, 08:32 AM
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Thanks for the input. I dropped off my radiator at a shop this morning to have it re-cored ($425) The welder asked if I want to make it larger (wider) since there is space inside the orginal radiator frame to do so. Has anyone done this before? I figure it will help keep the D90 run cooler...but is that always a good thing? Will it take forever to warm up in the winter?
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Old June 16th, 2012, 11:26 PM
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All 4 bottom rivets of my fan shroud have come undone. I was able to just pull them out from the top with my fingers. Anyone have this happen? Getting a rivet gun in from the top or bottom to replace them seems to require a fair amount of disassembly. Does anyone know what the simplest method would be, with the least amount of disassembly, to be able to get the rivet gun in there to replace them?
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Old June 18th, 2012, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gas-man View Post
Thanks for the input. I dropped off my radiator at a shop this morning to have it re-cored ($425) The welder asked if I want to make it larger (wider) since there is space inside the orginal radiator frame to do so. Has anyone done this before? I figure it will help keep the D90 run cooler...but is that always a good thing? Will it take forever to warm up in the winter?

I saw two fins thats were bent on that thing, and your dropping $425 on something that worked perfectly fine? Geez.... i dunno but that seems like a waste to me.


If you have a properly working thermostat at the right temp, warm up time shouldn't be affected no matter how big of a radiator you have. Remember water only flows through the radiator when the t-stat is open. Otherwise its closed and bypassed.

If your t-stat is stuck open then yes it will take longer to warm up with a larger radiator.

Your correct, running too cold can be just as bad as too hot. If oil isn't at the proper temp, it doesn't work like it should, also other tolerances within the engine are designed for operating temp (usually around 180 degrees). If you have issues once the new rad is in, i would look for either a new or different t-stat to help make it run warmer/cooler, depending on what you see.
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