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  #1  
Old January 20th, 2007, 02:32 PM
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nate
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Fan is wobbling

Fan and belts on my `95 D90 are wobbling. It just started. Does this mean anything? Could this mean my water pump is shot?
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  #2  
Old January 20th, 2007, 02:39 PM
Monkeyboy

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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldscratchggf
Could this mean my water pump is shot?
Yup.

Could also mean that the bolts holding the pulley to the pump are loose
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  #3  
Old January 20th, 2007, 02:41 PM
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nate
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Already checked that, everything seems tight
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  #4  
Old January 20th, 2007, 02:45 PM
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Sounds like a bad water pump bearing it is a common problem.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC483.cfm


Eric
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  #5  
Old January 20th, 2007, 02:46 PM
Monkeyboy

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If you slip the belts off and the water pump shaft is wiggly - its shot.

I had one fail like this in the Disco without leaking any coolant. I replaced the one on the '97 D90 with a little wiggle and a big squeak on start up and shutdown...not leaking either, go figure. Seems like the bearings have failed before the seals.

KAA
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  #6  
Old January 20th, 2007, 02:57 PM
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nate
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So I guess my next question is does it matter if it`s genuine?

Also, I guess while I`ve got it apart I might as well slap in a new viscous fan clutch?

Follow-up Post:

damn.... genuine $240.... knock off $100.... any difference really?
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  #7  
Old January 20th, 2007, 03:03 PM
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Our aftermarket is the same quality as genuine out of the box they look idenical and have the same lifespan. A new viscous is a good idea, check the fan for stress cracks, and check the tensioner to see how the bearing sounds.

Eric
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  #8  
Old January 20th, 2007, 06:50 PM
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nate
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No offense Eric, I don`t mean this in any way shape or form personally, but does anyone outside the company have any experience with the AB water pump? I have never dealt with any of the AB aftermarket products.
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  #9  
Old January 21st, 2007, 02:33 AM
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A worn fan clutch (viscous coupling) can easily lead to a worn bearing in your waterpump. Give it a tug in and out, there shouldn't be any movement. If the coupling is worn and loose (depending how bad) , it will chew through waterpumps.
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  #10  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 09:09 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Resurrecting this old thread as I have the same issue - water pump pully wobbles but doesn't leak. Just wanted to confirm if the bolts are tight it has to be the pump bearings?

------ Follow up post added August 22nd, 2010 09:10 PM ------

Oh, and does anyone have any strong feelings with going aftermarket as opposed to genuine?
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  #11  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Resurrecting this old thread as I have the same issue - water pump pully wobbles but doesn't leak. Just wanted to confirm if the bolts are tight it has to be the pump bearings?

------ Follow up post added August 22nd, 2010 09:10 PM ------

Oh, and does anyone have any strong feelings with going aftermarket as opposed to genuine?
I have a fan/clutch you can have...
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  #12  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 11:48 AM
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AB one I got for Janey seemed high quality. Personally, I would still pay more for genuine. Either way make sure to buy a genuine gasket though, not the crap paper ones that come with the aftermarket waterpumps.
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  #13  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 01:50 PM
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Will Tillery sells a water pump with lifetime warranty for $115.00, shipped, and it includes the gasket. Not sure of the make, but mine has 35,000 miles on it, so it can't be all bad. Use Right Stuff for the gasket.
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  #14  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 02:13 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I already ordered one, but thanks for the recommendation of using the right stuff. I'll do that. I'm still amazed it wobbles but doesn't leak. Of course it's likely the wobble is new since it sat for however long.
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  #15  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 02:26 PM
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Right stuff just makes it harder to get off and it gets in the bolt holes in my experience. The genuine water pump gasket is like $10 and works perfectly.
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  #16  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 02:28 PM
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Charles Galpin
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What's wrong with the gasket that comes with the AB one? I ordered before you posted or I'd have thrown in a genuine gasket, but it's not worth another order to me.
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  #17  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 02:44 PM
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It is paper so it is more prone to leaking and is harder to remove. Also prone to tearing or folding (folding is the worst). The genuine one is neoprene or something and has little buldged areas to make it seal better. If you ordered today they can probably add it the order. Not a huge deal but it is what it is.

When I have been forced to use paper ones, I put a light skim of hylomar on both sides and then install.
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  #18  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Right stuff just makes it harder to get off and it gets in the bolt holes in my experience. The genuine water pump gasket is like $10 and works perfectly.
In the bolt holes??? Good god, how much are you using? All it takes is a slim skim on the block surface and on the pump.

Everyone should have a can of Right Stuff around the garage. It has so many uses. I even seen people repair P38 air bags with it. If you've got a can laying around, it's $10.00 cheaper than the OEM gasket and works just fine.

I've never had a problem taking something back apart after using Right Stuff, but you're right, it does put a strong hold on things. It's good shit.
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  #19  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 03:03 PM
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Right stuff has its place, but my way of doing things is that if there is an effective, long-lasting gasket available, I use that. To each his own. Although I am the orginal cheap bastard and am known for doing roadside repairs, I prefer to use the best on labor intensive jobs like the water pump on a non-serp rover V8.
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  #20  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 03:10 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Bloody hell, I'm in the "i have the right stuff and it works for damn near any kind of gasket for me", but I do agree if the genuine gasket is better and available, why not use it. Of course AB doesn't sell them so I'd have to order from RN or elsewhere. I think I'll wait and see if any other surprises pop up before I order anything. I need to fix the exhaust on my red truck anyway - should stop messing around with this thing

Remind me why this is so labor intensive on a v-belt 3.9?
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