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  #1  
Old April 15th, 2007, 10:45 PM
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Extended Wheel Studs

Wondering if anyone running Wolf rims has changed their wheel studs to longer ones. The stock studs on the 110 do not go completely through the lug nuts (maybe halfway). I think Zeus makes some longer studs. Are there any other options or at least a local source? Thanks.
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  #2  
Old April 15th, 2007, 11:37 PM
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Not the exact same application, but you can take the rover studs out and replace them with standard in any lenth. You can then buy new lug nuts with the exact same taper demensions and do it all for quite a bit less than just replacing with longer rover studs. I did this on my front end. I now have 5/8 fine thread bolts with rover steel wheels.
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  #3  
Old April 16th, 2007, 04:30 AM
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jim pendleton
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I've done this and added spacers up to 1.5" with the longer studs in 5/8" You can get lugnuts that match the LR size as well.

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  #4  
Old April 16th, 2007, 05:27 AM
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Zeus make the longer studs for this application, however, opinion among UK owners is that you don't really need them. Certainly my own father ran Discovery steel wheels (same short stud problem as Wolf rims) on his Defender for something 7/8 yrs without a problem.

Kev
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  #5  
Old April 16th, 2007, 03:25 PM
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Buck/Pendy - Kevin brought up a good point. Is this a problem I should be concerned about or do most people not even worry about it, and never have a problem?
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Old April 16th, 2007, 05:01 PM
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I believe a picky MOT man can fail the car if the nut doesn't fully connect with the treads on the wheel stud.
I put Zeus studs on my 110 for this reason but they're way too long, the threads can rust up which makes getting the nuts offf a bit of a so 'n' so Studs of alloy wheel applications (with the groove across the end) are longer and overcome this problem.
My 90 has a Classic Range Rover rear axle with wheel studs for alloys and the wolf wheels fit fine the front axle is standard and the wheels haven't fallen off..............yet
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Old April 16th, 2007, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Sakurada
Buck/Pendy - Kevin brought up a good point. Is this a problem I should be concerned about or do most people not even worry about it, and never have a problem?
I wouldn't really worry about it. Unless you have less than 1x diameter of the bolt size treaded it is not really an issue. Of course, being sure about things like this are nice sometimes.
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Old April 17th, 2007, 01:24 AM
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You could always put a cap on the nut so you could not see the threads ?; {
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  #9  
Old April 17th, 2007, 01:44 AM
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Or Disco lugs!!
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  #10  
Old April 17th, 2007, 02:28 PM
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I was told that 1 1/2 times the stud diameter in contact with the threads of the nut gives the max strength.
Capped nuts would wouk for an MOT
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  #11  
Old April 17th, 2007, 03:25 PM
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Don't think I'm ready to cap my nuts yet

Right now I have about 1 dia of thread engaged. Seems marginal to me, but I'm not sure...

1-1/2 diameters would be about right for the lug nuts I have. I should probably look into the 5/8 studs, and see if I can get the correct length. Thanks for all the feedback.
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Old April 17th, 2007, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
You could always put a cap on the nut so you could not see the threads ?; {
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  #13  
Old April 17th, 2007, 09:03 PM
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It's just like spline engadgement. More than 1 times diameter doesn't net any more strenth. Thats why nuts are about that width. Imagine a 1/2 bolt with a 1.5in long nut. Now wheter or not they are less safe because they can fall off easier when they get loose, I don't know. If you keep them tight, you should be fine.
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  #14  
Old April 18th, 2007, 12:21 AM
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Actually the strength of a threaded or splined joint will increase as the engagement length is increased. The load is distributed over a greater area so the stress is lower. Hence, greater load capability for the same max stress. But I would agree that 1 dia is a practical minimum. My situation seems marginal to me because it's probably slightly less than 1 dia as the lug nuts have a relief on the backside. And also the last thread at the end of the stud isn't reliable for load carrying so even less there. Yeah, I should get some of those 5/8" studs.
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  #15  
Old April 18th, 2007, 12:26 AM
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You want me to post some pictures?

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  #16  
Old April 18th, 2007, 12:31 AM
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Sure, pictures always help. Thanks.
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  #17  
Old April 18th, 2007, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Sakurada
Actually the strength of a threaded or splined joint will increase as the engagement length is increased. The load is distributed over a greater area so the stress is lower. Hence, greater load capability for the same max stress. But I would agree that 1 dia is a practical minimum. My situation seems marginal to me because it's probably slightly less than 1 dia as the lug nuts have a relief on the backside. And also the last thread at the end of the stud isn't reliable for load carrying so even less there. Yeah, I should get some of those 5/8" studs.
True,

But only in pull stress. In sheer the bolt will break the same with 10 times diameter as it would with 1. The stress on a wheel stud is almost all sheer, so 1 times diameter is fine. But 5/8 is cooler anyway.
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  #18  
Old April 18th, 2007, 03:52 AM
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I guess I'm thinking there's more than just shear loads that are significant. But I really don't know what the loading is. Maybe the worst thing for me is just torquing them down, and stripping or yielding the threads that way.

Here's how it currently looks:
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  #19  
Old April 18th, 2007, 04:01 AM
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I wouldn't think that there is much shear weight at all on them...aren't the wheels hubcentric? If they are, the weight should be distributed onto the centerbore and the studs should just be holding the wheels against the hub.

My question is...why are there less threads with the steel wheels than the alloys? Stamped steel should be thinner than the aluminum wheel. Are you running spacers with these?
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  #20  
Old April 18th, 2007, 05:02 AM
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Don't believe they're hubcentric. The lugs are tapered so the wheel definitely loads the studs.

Nope, no spacers. I don't have aluminum wheels to compare so I don't know where the differences come in. You can see in the pic that there's a raised area on the steel wheel right under the lug nut. My guess is that these are more pronounced on the Wolf rims than the stock steel rims. Apparently there's a Defender XD (Wolf) stud (PN FRC7577) that's suppose to be longer. But of course, not available here and very expensive.
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