Exmoor Acoustic Mat Repair - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 7th, 2016, 09:03 PM
ghoregon
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Greg H
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Exmoor Acoustic Mat Repair

Hey all.

I was lucky enough to pick up one of the damaged (and heavily discounted) Exmoor Acoustic Mat sets (ext009-12bk) last week from RN. It arrived today, and as expected, has some not insignificant damage that I'd like to repair. Does anyone have suggestions on how to repair? Not striving for beautiful, but functional would be great!

Thanks,
Greg

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  #2  
Old September 7th, 2016, 09:28 PM
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Ryan Noonan
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Just an idea... never tried it, so there is that disclaimer:

something like this by Devcon or the Locktite rubber repair equivalent would probably cost more than you would want to spend... seems like one tube goes for like $150.

I think I'd probably try to cut out a strip of canvas slightly smaller than the width of each rubber piece that you are trying to reconnect (so it isn't visible from the top)... I'd flip the mat over so the bottom side is up, try to glue the strip to the bottom with something like Shoe Goo. Then I'd let that cure and whip stitch the new seams with some doubled up polyester thread that matches your Ex-Mod. The stitches will be reinforced by the canvas and Shoe Goo, will add a little frankenstein accent color, and may even look cool.

you never know

if the shoe goo doesn't take to the bottom, at least the effects wouldn't be visible, and you could try something else.
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  #3  
Old September 7th, 2016, 09:41 PM
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  #4  
Old September 7th, 2016, 09:48 PM
ghoregon
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Greg H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nooner View Post
Just an idea... never tried it, so there is that disclaimer:

something like this by Devcon or the Locktite rubber repair equivalent would probably cost more than you would want to spend... seems like one tube goes for like $150.

I think I'd probably try to cut out a strip of canvas slightly smaller than the width of each rubber piece that you are trying to reconnect (so it isn't visible from the top)... I'd flip the mat over so the bottom side is up, try to glue the strip to the bottom with something like Shoe Goo. Then I'd let that cure and whip stitch the new seams with some doubled up polyester thread that matches your Ex-Mod. The stitches will be reinforced by the canvas and Shoe Goo, will add a little frankenstein accent color, and may even look cool.

you never know

if the shoe goo doesn't take to the bottom, at least the effects wouldn't be visible, and you could try something else.
Shoe goo sounds like a great idea. I wonder if a rubber patch (like used to repair a bike tire tube) would maybe be better than canvas??? Thanks for the ideas!

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  #5  
Old September 7th, 2016, 09:50 PM
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Maybe https://www.fiberfix.com/ ??


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  #6  
Old September 7th, 2016, 10:02 PM
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Greg H
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Would this work the same on rubber as it does plastic? Also...$529 MSRP...dios mio!

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  #7  
Old September 7th, 2016, 10:07 PM
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I would try some Gorilla Tape on the underside and go from there. Cheap and available pretty much anywhere. My Matting is supposed to be delivered tomorrow and that is my current plan.
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  #8  
Old September 7th, 2016, 10:24 PM
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Maybe waxed lacing cord and stitch the stuff together?

http://www.newark.com/lacing-cord
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  #9  
Old September 7th, 2016, 10:27 PM
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Greg H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
I would try some Gorilla Tape on the underside and go from there. Cheap and available pretty much anywhere. My Matting is supposed to be delivered tomorrow and that is my current plan.
I like the simplicity and it seems to be a well rated product. Easy to move to a Plan B if it doesn't take.

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------ Follow up post added September 7th, 2016 11:30 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by jafir View Post
Maybe waxed lacing cord and stitch the stuff together?

http://www.newark.com/lacing-cord
Hmm...stitches...that would certainly add to the Tortuga's already rough & tumble appearance! Good fall back option if less invasive options don't work out.
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  #10  
Old September 7th, 2016, 10:33 PM
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  #11  
Old September 7th, 2016, 10:35 PM
ghoregon
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Greg H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Looks like this would work well for wrap repairs, but prefer to try more of a patch on the underside initially. Make sense?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nooner View Post
Just an idea... never tried it, so there is that disclaimer:

something like this by Devcon or the Locktite rubber repair equivalent would probably cost more than you would want to spend... seems like one tube goes for like $150.

I think I'd probably try to cut out a strip of canvas slightly smaller than the width of each rubber piece that you are trying to reconnect (so it isn't visible from the top)... I'd flip the mat over so the bottom side is up, try to glue the strip to the bottom with something like Shoe Goo. Then I'd let that cure and whip stitch the new seams with some doubled up polyester thread that matches your Ex-Mod. The stitches will be reinforced by the canvas and Shoe Goo, will add a little frankenstein accent color, and may even look cool.

you never know

if the shoe goo doesn't take to the bottom, at least the effects wouldn't be visible, and you could try something else.

Sent from my SM-T520 using Tapatalk
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  #12  
Old September 7th, 2016, 10:43 PM
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I think you are going to have to create some kind of backing for it and then secure the matting to the backing.
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  #13  
Old September 7th, 2016, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
3M 5200 fast cure
This stuff sounds perfect...waterproof, strong, & flexible. Would you just "glue" the rips with it or also incorporate some sort of backing (canvas, rubber, etc.)?
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  #14  
Old September 8th, 2016, 05:46 AM
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Definitely recommend the backing. After all once it's in it only needs to look like it's one piece. Having installed the three piece set before on my 90 someone must have been pretty angry to cause that kind of damage in shipping.


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  #15  
Old September 8th, 2016, 06:21 AM
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Got mine installed, had a few tears but not in half. After first 30 min highway drive it has helped with noise and mostly Heat.
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  #16  
Old September 8th, 2016, 06:58 AM
ghoregon
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Greg H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedpin View Post
Got mine installed, had a few tears but not in half. After first 30 min highway drive it has helped with noise and mostly Heat.
Any helpful tips on installing the seat box mat? Presumably seat rails just sit on top of the mat and the mat is cut for access to the three panels on top of the seat box. Is that right?
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  #17  
Old September 8th, 2016, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghoregon View Post
Would this work the same on rubber as it does plastic? Also...$529 MSRP...dios mio! Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Did you look up the most expensive site? Amazon showed like $150 or less last time I checked! Either way a few showed up when I searched hot stapler rubber but not sure if they're meant to work optimally on rubber.
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  #18  
Old September 8th, 2016, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghoregon View Post
Any helpful tips on installing the seat box mat? Presumably seat rails just sit on top of the mat and the mat is cut for access to the three panels on top of the seat box. Is that right?
What transmission do you have?


You will need to remove the hold down clasps for the under seat lids. You wont need them. Them weight of the mat hold the lids closed tight. you could keep them but would need to cut front edge of matting.


If you look at the bottom of the seat box matting then you can see an outline for the access lids, just cut out the front and sides, then you can flip the mat up to pull out lid. They lined up well on my ROW 110 but tight when sliding the lids out. Works fine for me.


I put bulkhead piece first (will bolt under fuse panel), floor matting, then I cut out e brake, and lids then laid the matting on the seat box. I then worked with a 3/8 drill bit and drilled holed over all the seat rail bolt holes. Don't drill the captive nuts under the matting if you have them. You will need M6x1 25 or 30 mm bolts (1/5 inch longer than stock screws) in length due to the added height of matting.


Seal up any holes in the floor and seatbox. last thing you want is preventable water intrusion points under the thick rubber matting.


Run any wires you think you would ever need to your console, you will not want to pull this stuff up anytime soon.


--------------------------------------
"three panels on top of the seat box"
If you don't have console and want the access to the center panel then cut away. I would not cut the center access panel in until you need access. Less cuts the better
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  #19  
Old September 8th, 2016, 09:03 AM
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Greg on the backing selection, consider some black marine vinyl. Available at fabric stores.
For a test run, cut the vinyl to cover the transmission tunnel. Then add double sided tape or velcro to the exposed portion of the vinyl and put mat into position.
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  #20  
Old September 8th, 2016, 09:24 AM
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if you're not satisfied with the end result, you could hide the seam with a Mud UK Tunnel Tray:

MUD Defender Tunnel Tray - MUD Stuff - Products
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