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  #21  
Old September 8th, 2016, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winston-Rover View Post
if you're not satisfied with the end result, you could hide the seam with a Mud UK Tunnel Tray:

MUD Defender Tunnel Tray - MUD Stuff - Products
Regardless of the result those trays rock. The thickness of the sound matting makes fitment a bit fiddly but the lt77 version screws in with the two top screws @ the rear of the tunnel nicely.
We have one in Trey's 4.2 auto 110 and even Trey the purist likes it.
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  #22  
Old September 8th, 2016, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedpin View Post
What transmission do you have?


You will need to remove the hold down clasps for the under seat lids. You wont need them. Them weight of the mat hold the lids closed tight. you could keep them but would need to cut front edge of matting.


If you look at the bottom of the seat box matting then you can see an outline for the access lids, just cut out the front and sides, then you can flip the mat up to pull out lid. They lined up well on my ROW 110 but tight when sliding the lids out. Works fine for me.


I put bulkhead piece first (will bolt under fuse panel), floor matting, then I cut out e brake, and lids then laid the matting on the seat box. I then worked with a 3/8 drill bit and drilled holed over all the seat rail bolt holes. Don't drill the captive nuts under the matting if you have them. You will need M6x1 25 or 30 mm bolts (1/5 inch longer than stock screws) in length due to the added height of matting.


Seal up any holes in the floor and seatbox. last thing you want is preventable water intrusion points under the thick rubber matting.


Run any wires you think you would ever need to your console, you will not want to pull this stuff up anytime soon.


--------------------------------------
"three panels on top of the seat box"
If you don't have console and want the access to the center panel then cut away. I would not cut the center access panel in until you need access. Less cuts the better
Thanks a ton for the tips. I have an LT77 transmission, is your new rig an LT85? Your mats definitely look different, particularly the middle part of the seat box. Your front edge is molded into the mat whereas on mine, it looks like it needs to be cut out. Not sure why the difference in approach on that from Exmoor.

I will definitely get fresh paint down and my stainless kit from SDO installed before I put the mats in. Sounds like I won't want to be moving them once they are in the truck.
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  #23  
Old September 8th, 2016, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winston-Rover View Post
if you're not satisfied with the end result, you could hide the seam with a Mud UK Tunnel Tray:

MUD Defender Tunnel Tray - MUD Stuff - Products
Yep, was thinking the same thing. Looks like Mud only has the R380 version for some reason. Lucky 8 still shows the LT77 RHD version I'd need for $85...hmm. Tell me does the spending on these trucks ever end?

------ Follow up post added September 8th, 2016 10:33 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Greg on the backing selection, consider some black marine vinyl. Available at fabric stores.
For a test run, cut the vinyl to cover the transmission tunnel. Then add double sided tape or velcro to the exposed portion of the vinyl and put mat into position.
Marine vinyl, interesting option. I didn't know such a thing exists. Would this adhere better to the 3M 5200 than a rubber patch-like backing?

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  #24  
Old September 10th, 2016, 06:37 PM
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Ok, my matting showed up and required a few small repairs. Gorilla tape sticks to pretty much anything EXCEPT Exmoor acoustic matting. On to plan "B" whatever that is.
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  #25  
Old September 10th, 2016, 07:10 PM
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Greg H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
Ok, my matting showed up and required a few small repairs. Gorilla tape sticks to pretty much anything EXCEPT Exmoor acoustic matting. On to plan "B" whatever that is.
Good to know that isn't an option. I'm still leaning toward the 3M 5200, but curious to know if you find something that works well.

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  #26  
Old September 10th, 2016, 07:23 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Exmoor Acoustic Mat Repair

Options i'd do...
Uncle dougs suggestion
Gorilla tape
Or just deal with it (cut the tunnel part out in other words and throw some dyno mat stuff under the stock mat if you have one)

Edit, the mud uk tray fits like crap with the matting (I have one if you need it with 3 sockets)
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  #27  
Old September 10th, 2016, 07:45 PM
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I'd suggest not repairing with any glue type stuff until the mat is fitted in place.

It can take some....persuasion to get it in!



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  #28  
Old September 10th, 2016, 07:53 PM
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I'm not convinced about this idea, but it's been bouncing around the old noggin since This thread started.
How about using a fiberglass repair kit?
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  #29  
Old September 10th, 2016, 08:01 PM
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Come on guys! Stitches. Girls like scars.
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  #30  
Old September 10th, 2016, 09:40 PM
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Find yourself a person who does Plastic welding already
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  #31  
Old September 11th, 2016, 07:30 AM
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Automotive Goop. Ued that to glue a torn mud flap on a mates Defender and has worked for years now. Can't even tell where its torn. Get some between the tear and a blob on the back side.
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  #32  
Old September 11th, 2016, 09:45 AM
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I kinda wish mine was two pieces. It's bitch to get In/out for cleaning.

Anyway I vote for stitching, use plastic rexlace

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  #33  
Old September 12th, 2016, 07:22 AM
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I shot Drew Wright the manufacturer of these sound mats an email asking how he'd suggest
repairing the tears and got this response:


Hi Doug,
I’m sorry to tell you but they weren’t torn in shipment.
The sets are manufactured from a bad batch of material and will keep cracking.
They probably won’t stand up to the installation process.
Fit for land fill only.
This is our first quality problem in 15yrs and I’m very disappointed for customers that received them.
Needless to say we have fixed the problem.

Thanks

Drew
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  #34  
Old September 12th, 2016, 07:31 AM
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Wow what a bummer. Dosent look like these should have been sold
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  #35  
Old September 12th, 2016, 07:41 AM
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RN sold these reduced at 110$ for a complete system. If they crack over the years so be it. I am sure they will last for a couple years. Should know if a few weeks/months if they will degrade quickly.




RN probably pursued replacements at no cost from vendor due to the defects.
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  #36  
Old September 12th, 2016, 08:15 AM
ghoregon
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Dang, "fit for landfill purposes only". Yes, $110 is a steal for these assuming they hold up, but that statement from the manufacturer concerns me.

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  #37  
Old September 12th, 2016, 08:17 AM
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I wonder what the date range is of the defective ones. I've got a set sitting new in the box, but I've had it a couple of years I think.
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  #38  
Old September 12th, 2016, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I shot Drew Wright the manufacturer of these sound mats an email asking how he'd suggest
repairing the tears and got this response:


Hi Doug,
Iím sorry to tell you but they werenít torn in shipment.
The sets are manufactured from a bad batch of material and will keep cracking.
They probably wonít stand up to the installation process.
Fit for land fill only.
This is our first quality problem in 15yrs and Iím very disappointed for customers that received them.
Needless to say we have fixed the problem.

Thanks

Drew
If they will keep cracking, maybe take this opportunity to back the complete pieces with some thin rubber. Vacuum bagging with a compatible adhesive perhaps? Just thinking out loud.
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  #39  
Old September 12th, 2016, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I shot Drew Wright the manufacturer of these sound mats an email asking how he'd suggest
repairing the tears and got this response:


Hi Doug,
Iím sorry to tell you but they werenít torn in shipment.
The sets are manufactured from a bad batch of material and will keep cracking.
They probably wonít stand up to the installation process.
Fit for land fill only.
This is our first quality problem in 15yrs and Iím very disappointed for customers that received them.
Needless to say we have fixed the problem.

Thanks

Drew


The buyers knew what they were getting.
Damaged goods at a cheap price.
Thats about the price of some floor mats.

The installation process is brutal.

At least they'll sit in a truck as a test for a few years before the landfill....who knows?


.
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  #40  
Old September 12th, 2016, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC View Post
If they will keep cracking, maybe take this opportunity to back the complete pieces with some thin rubber. Vacuum bagging with a compatible adhesive perhaps? Just thinking out loud.
Maybe glue the whole thing to black rubber pond liner?
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