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  #1  
Old August 10th, 2010, 02:52 PM
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Excessive heat coming from under the seats

90% of the time I'm totally fine without having A/C in the rover... but when we're on the highway, about an hour in, the amount of heat coming from under teh seats (battery box, exhaust heat, etc) is unbearable. Short of just buying from bulk rubber matting and installing under the seats does anybody have any easy/cheap ways to limit this?

Nothing is overheating on the rover itself, I think at that point the amount of ambient heat and wind under the truck just pushes it up through the cracks, etc
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  #2  
Old August 10th, 2010, 03:05 PM
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Yep, V8 Defenders will bake the hell out of you. Rover makes a really nice rubber mat to cover the foot wells, floor, and seatbox but this is hard to get and about 500 bucks.

First you can make sure there is a good seal on your seat box covers so that no extra hot air comes blowing through.
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  #3  
Old August 10th, 2010, 03:09 PM
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mine is a 300tdi, but hot nonetheless.
The footwells don't really seem to be too hot (and I don't have $500 to spend on it) . But if you put your hand behind your back while sitting in the front seats you can feel a TON of really hot air coming up. Rubber matting it is. I'll also try to seal up the seatboxes a bit better, maybe use some house weatherstripping.
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  #4  
Old August 10th, 2010, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillstrubl View Post
mine is a 300tdi, but hot nonetheless.
The footwells don't really seem to be too hot (and I don't have $500 to spend on it) . But if you put your hand behind your back while sitting in the front seats you can feel a TON of really hot air coming up. Rubber matting it is. I'll also try to seal up the seatboxes a bit better, maybe use some house weatherstripping.
Dynamat the underside of the seat box. The mylar coating should reflect a lot of the heat and kill some of the diesel drone. FWIW I have the same issue with my tdi 130. The handbrake boot is one of my culprits.
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  #5  
Old August 10th, 2010, 04:14 PM
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thinking about that long term, dynamatting (sp?) a good amount of the cab. The diesel drone doesnt really bother me, its having to bring 3 shirts on any highway trip... I'm going to see what I can find with regards to rubber matting for now, maybe dynamat if the price is right.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 08:54 PM
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Somebody put a lot of heat shielding above the cats on mine, well before I bought the truck. I've HEARD about the underfloor heat problem, but never experienced it myself. It's crazy how well the stuff has worked.

-Hans
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  #7  
Old August 10th, 2010, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillstrubl View Post
thinking about that long term, dynamatting (sp?) a good amount of the cab. The diesel drone doesnt really bother me, its having to bring 3 shirts on any highway trip... I'm going to see what I can find with regards to rubber matting for now, maybe dynamat if the price is right.
I'm building a 110 from a carcass right now and we have completely dynamatted the bulkhead and foot wells. Going to do the doors and see how far the material lasts as far as the seat box goes.

There is a better seat box insulation than the OE part. Look into the Wright Off Road product. Exmoor Trim has rights to it in the UK but I understand that if you call Wright from the US they will ship it directly to you. That or call Justin @ Lucky 8 and ask him to get it for you through AllMakes
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  #8  
Old August 10th, 2010, 10:22 PM
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You shouldnt really get that much heat from under the truck with a TDI, has it got a muffler on it and where is it located? Under the seatbox?
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  #9  
Old August 10th, 2010, 10:46 PM
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Dan's truck is factory spec 300. Mine makes a ton of heat too, all my LR's have done so. If you put your hand next to a 1/4" hole in the seatbox it is like a mini heater blowing tons of hot air into the cab. Plug every hole you can. Guess you could put some thin weather strip foam on the seatbox lids. I don't have to change shirts on trips in mine. Open a window maybe?
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  #10  
Old August 10th, 2010, 10:56 PM
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hey, nobody said i didn't sweat like a pregnant woman.
This weekend, Danny is plugging holes (no pun intended)
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  #11  
Old August 11th, 2010, 09:01 AM
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insulate

I read somewhere here about using a hot water heater wrap insulation. VERY cheap and seems to work...I packed the Sh&T out of the two boxes.

R
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Old August 11th, 2010, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Dan's truck is factory spec 300. Mine makes a ton of heat too, all my LR's have done so. If you put your hand next to a 1/4" hole in the seatbox it is like a mini heater blowing tons of hot air into the cab. Plug every hole you can. Guess you could put some thin weather strip foam on the seatbox lids. I don't have to change shirts on trips in mine. Open a window maybe?

What about Dynaliner? I've got it as hood insulation and it works great, although one piece jumped ship recently.
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  #13  
Old August 11th, 2010, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
What about Dynaliner? I've got it as hood insulation and it works great, although one piece jumped ship recently.
Joel I have a roll of that in the garage for the 130. Does it cut down on the diesel noise ?
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  #14  
Old August 11th, 2010, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans View Post
Somebody put a lot of heat shielding above the cats on mine, well before I bought the truck. I've HEARD about the underfloor heat problem, but never experienced it myself. It's crazy how well the stuff has worked.
Hans, I don't suppose you could snap a picture or two of what your heat shielding looks like? I've contemplated doing something like this for a while now, but just not sure how to go about it. The heat from mine is almost unbearable in the summer.
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Old August 11th, 2010, 10:18 AM
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Put a heat insulation kit onto the exhaust/centre-box (or remove centre box, I have 200TDIs so I'm not 100% sure the configuration on the V8 models but I assume it is similar at that point) which will keep the heat inside the exhaust system longer which also has other advantages. Avoid the fibre-type exhaust wraps as they hold mud and break down into millions of nettle-like fibres and are never fun to work around.

All the other suggestions are also good but when the issue is heat, deal with the heat with a heat solution. The others will help with sound/vibration etc. I'm a big fan of butyl matting for sound deadening and corrosion protection (ever notice the only places a Land Rover doesn't corrode is under the stickers? .

Something like: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-16500/ for around the centre box

At least this approach blocks the heat at the source, then if you add additional materials directly to the floor/seatbox they will have some protection from the heat.

------ Follow up post added August 11th, 2010 10:28 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
Joel I have a roll of that in the garage for the 130. Does it cut down on the diesel noise ?
It will help but I suspect a whole lot of the diesel noise is structure-transmitted vs air-transmitted which means that the best way to reduce it other than making certain that every gap is properly sealed is to load up the panels transmitting the most noise. For air-transmitted noise a sound meter is a good measuring tool and not too expensive. For structure transmitted noise it is a little more complex. Land Rover Owner/Enthusiast had an article on the LR factory setup for noise detection/reduction about a year ago that was quite interesting. I'm not sure if you can buy the tool they used but it was basically a microphone that required direct contact to measure the frequency and amplitude of the vibrations. Often making a particular noise almost go away or at least become significantly less annoying is as simple as riveting a strengthening bar in the correct location, this is basically what the Dynamat approach does but because we generally lack the tools to measure the source and transmission path accurately we end up applying it to the entire structure when really it works best at specific frequencies and amplitudes usually on big body panels.

I get me 110 back from paint on the weekend and once I close up the remaining open gaps (bulkhead wire gaps, bolt holes etc) I'll try to get a real read on how much the effort I've put into structural noise reduction has helped. The next step is to deal with noise absorbing materials (which is what Dynaliner is) to try to eliminate the interior air-transmitted noise (only just under half the cabin noise is actually original, much of the rest is reflected sound) and add a measure of insulation. For this I'm looking at the self-adhesive neoprene foam (Ensolite) sold by people like RAAMmat, which once applied over the butyl matting on the interior of the roof and inside the body panels on the sides of the tub should significantly reduce noise reflection.

Probably a little more information that you wanted, but it's an area I've been researching and testing in for the last year while doing the build so hopefully at least some of that is helpful.
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  #16  
Old August 11th, 2010, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherpamike View Post
Hans, I don't suppose you could snap a picture or two of what your heat shielding looks like? I've contemplated doing something like this for a while now, but just not sure how to go about it. The heat from mine is almost unbearable in the summer.
x2

Quote:
Originally Posted by ajh View Post
Put a heat insulation kit onto the exhaust/centre-box (or remove centre box, I have 200TDIs so I'm not 100% sure the configuration on the V8 models but I assume it is similar at that point) which will keep the heat inside the exhaust system longer which also has other advantages. ------------------

Something like: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-16500/ for around the centre box

At least this approach blocks the heat at the source, then if you add additional materials directly to the floor/seatbox they will have some protection from the heat.
-----------------------------
I like this idea
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Old August 11th, 2010, 11:56 AM
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I like the idea of that summit racing heat shielding too... just need to figure out exactly where to put it.
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Old August 11th, 2010, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
Joel I have a roll of that in the garage for the 130. Does it cut down on the diesel noise ?

It does a pretty good job, but I still get the occasional "sounds like a kubota backhoe" comments. Biggest benefit to it in my book is the shit keeps the hood from getting too hot.

I need to buy some for the wife's RRC but I have a near perfect factory insluating panel for it...
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  #19  
Old August 29th, 2011, 10:15 AM
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Thought I'd update this thread with the cheap and effective solution I found if you still have carpet. ezcool.us $46 delivered for a roll and two small rolls of tape. The stuff lays down real nice, so I didn't glue anything down. Still hunting down and stopping hot air leaks. Now that I've cooled down the floorboards, the E-brake boot seems to be a big contributor. Attacking it next. Pics attached.
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  #20  
Old August 29th, 2011, 03:28 PM
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dynamat is great for the drone etc and my 110s getting a shed load.

Theres loads of holes all over the underside of a 110 with the seat box, floor plates, i attck them with silkaflex body sealer to keep the heat in and the drafts out!
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