Engine/Transmission removal--one big lump - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 28th, 2010, 01:09 PM
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Chris Davis
94 NAS D90 6.2LS
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Engine/Transmission removal--one big lump

Not sure where to post this as it is a technical discussion, but not looking for help. Please feel free to move at will.

This is intended as a brief description of removing the engine along with the transmission and transfer case as one big lump. This was done by one person in one day, to give a reference on time. I tried to have this be a minimally invasive removal with bare minimum removed. My truck is a 94 D90. I am not covering draining fluids and common sense items as if you are removing an engine, you best know that stuff ahead of time. Also, things are precariously balanced when removing such a large lump--so make sure things are stable.

Disconnect the battery. Since my A-bar of my bumper was in the way, I removed the bumper (it needs repainting) along with the grill and radiator exposing a clean path to the front of the engine. My fan is a flex-a-lite that came off with the radiator, otherwise remove your fan, too. I have a York Air compressor for on-board air mounted to the location where the stock air compressor would have been if you have A/C and I removed that as well as the alternator in order to make the engine more skinny since I didn't want to fight navigating it out of the engine bay. I also removed the plenum and the fuel rail to make removal of the wiring harness (specifically the fuel injector harness) that much easier (and to expose the lifting eyes--you would have to do this anyways). I disconnected the power steering hoses at the PS pump. Disconnect all the wires for sensors, grounds, as well as at the starter.

Inside the truck, take off the emergency brake lever from the seat box and disconnect the cable. Remove the tunnel cover. I did not remove the floors, just the tunnel cover. Take off the gear shift shaft. You now have two stubby shafts from the transmission and the transfer case linkage. I left those. I also left my truck up on it's 33" tires--I wanted to make sure I could drop the assembly low enough such that these levers were clear out through the space allocated by removing the tunnel cover. It did by a couple inches.

Under the truck, remove the y-pipe, then the drive shafts front and rear. Remove the cross member. With all that removed, you can tuck your head up into the belly of the beast behind the transmission and actually see all the bits that need to be disconnected--there are a number of plugs at the top that have to be disconnected. Also feed out the emergency brake cable that goes from inside the truck so that you don't have to disconnect it at the drum--much easier. I also removed the speedometer cable at the transducer located at the transmission mount on the drivers side in lieu of removing it at the transmission case. Remove the slave cylinder and heat shield from the bell housing and set aside. I would remove all heat shields if they are in the way--I broke off the one by the starter that I thought was cleared. Nope.

Attach engine hoist as close as possible to the lifting eyes on the engine so that you can lift this lump as high as possible. Position a floor jack under the transmission. Take the load of the transmission and engine using the jack and hoist. Remove all the engine and transmission mounts. Lower the back end of the transmission a few inches and peer under truck to make sure everything is disconnected and clearing. Raise the engine a little and perform the same step. Continue to raise the engine and lower the transmission and reverify everything is good.

Attach a very strong come-along from the engine hoist to the back of the transmission (mine large nylon come-alongs were not strong enough and one actually "blew" dropping the back end of the brake drum down--it could have been worse. When I reinstall, I am using a cable manual winch come-along). This is to balance the back end of the transmission so it can be leveled out a bit. NOTE!!!! I USED A 2-TON LIFT WITH LONG STABILIZING LEGS--THIS IS AN AWFULLY LONG "LUMP" SO MAKE SURE YOUR BALANCE IS SUCH THAT IT WON'T TOPPLE THE LIFT. Raise the engine hoist so that the engine will clear the power steering pump and pull engine out a little so you can use the come-along to start raising the rear of the transmission. Remove giant lump.

This process took me about 8-9 hours.
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  #2  
Old February 28th, 2010, 03:59 PM
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Keith Kreutzer
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Very cool Chris!!!
Are you going to rebuild everything?
Oh you forgot to mention drinking lots of SKA E.S.B!!! One of my favorite bitter beers!!!
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  #3  
Old February 28th, 2010, 04:55 PM
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Chris Davis
94 NAS D90 6.2LS
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Redoing the 4.6 from a new used block I kindly got from Scott and reusing the crank and rods. After the block was pressure checked, we found they couldn't clean up the cylinder walls (rust) with just a hone, so I had them bore it figuring oversized pistons were common. They aren't. Got a set from Real Steel in the UK. I was going to try and source another block, but it is hard to find a safe 4.0/4.6 and this one was already pressure checked. Got a new R380 from Ashcroft. I am reusing my LT230.
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  #4  
Old March 1st, 2010, 09:09 AM
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Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
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nice how-to

Good work all around. I and others have done this the same way. Although I did not need the come-along to do mine. It does help to have the boom extended pretty far and a longer chain so the engine leveler doesn't foul on the boom at full lift as in your photo. Obviously as you say get the legs out as far as you can in the front and the ones in the back if yours have adjustment there. I just used the engine leveler to chenge the angel as I pulled it out. Once the transfer bos was clear of the firewall I leveled it out a bit. It would help to replace the cheesy handle on my load leveler with a 1/2" drive socket or a bolt head.
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  #5  
Old March 1st, 2010, 02:58 PM
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Bill Adams
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To Dave's credit he did this transplant with his hands tied behind his back holding tools between his toes. There's only about 6 inches of room on any one side of that truck.
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  #6  
Old March 1st, 2010, 03:05 PM
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Ren Ching
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Skinny Pete
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heh heh...not exactly true. but there is enough crap in my 12.5 foot wide yard that you can just open both doors without hitting the fence or the woodpile. The biggest PITA is the exposed aggregate slab surface I have to work on, it is hard to roll a cran around with any precision when there is 1000 lbs on the hook. On many occasions I had to stick a 6 foot 2x6 under the crane base and lever it around. Not a big deal but does tend to make the neighbors look at you funny.

As for side clearance, I did on one occasion have to play Jenga with the woodpile pulling logs out of the bottom of it so I could get the long rear halfshaft out...

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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
To Dave's credit he did this transplant with his hands tied behind his back holding tools between his toes. There's only about 6 inches of room on any one side of that truck.
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  #7  
Old March 1st, 2010, 03:38 PM
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Bill Adams
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Ferking ugly lump, that.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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1968 2A 88

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