Engine Ticking / Oil Light / Fault Codes - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Join the Defender Source Community Today
Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old June 26th, 2015, 06:37 PM
minch77's Avatar
minch77
Status: Offline
Minch
1997/Defender 90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Edison, NJ
Posts: 53
Registry
Engine Ticking / Oil Light / Fault Codes

After resolving all previously posted issues, it was time to hit the road. It road smooth and the engine was humming. After 30 mins of driving the oil light came on and a loud ticking noise started in the engine. LOUD. There has always been a barely noticeable ticking noise from the engine but nothing like this. Despite oil light, No oil loss detected. Sounded like an exhaust leak near manifold. No exhaust leak. I checked the plugs because it almost sounds like a loose plug ticking. No plug issue. The noise seems to come from the under the valve cover. When I am underneath the D-90 the noise is loudest toward the firewall. The noise matches the engine at idle and after revving the engine.

Fault codes are P0300, P1316, 1317. Of course the check engine light was on prior. (I usually reset that as needed so disregard). The P0300 code was unusual. Never had an issue with the engine EVER... and I have had the 1997 NAS since 1999! A while back I researched the earlier ticking noise and the piston rod/rockers were suggested as a possible cause.

What say the forum?

------ Follow up post added June 26th, 2015 06:43 PM ------

clip with noise https://youtu.be/vL-1Ae8U77A
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old June 26th, 2015, 07:32 PM
LuisC's Avatar
LuisC
Status: Offline
Luis Constantin
98 Disvovery 1 LE
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Austin,Texas USA
Posts: 1,744
Registry
Oil light came on?! Is say loss of oil pressure due to oil pump finally giving up the ghost.
__________________
Black Rhino Lives Matter
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #3  
Old June 26th, 2015, 07:50 PM
SMac's Avatar
SMac
Status: Offline
Sam
NAS 97 D90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,766
Check Oil Pick Up Tube Screen...might be plugged with crap.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old June 26th, 2015, 08:42 PM
JJ14's Avatar
JJ14
Status: Offline
Jim
1997 D90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Alexandria, Va
Posts: 47
Registry
I dealt with this issue a couple of weeks ago on my '97 SW. Check engine light came on and I had the same exhaust leak sound. I also noticed a decrease in power. The code thrown was P1317 which states "ABS Rough Road Line Low Fault". I also found where is stated that it was a "Manufacturer Controlled Ignition System or Misfire". I changed the plugs and wires, cleared the code, and it seems to be fine. The exhaust leak sound is gone and the check engine light has yet to come back on.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old June 26th, 2015, 09:34 PM
Nomar's Avatar
Nomar
Status: Offline
Jeff B
RR HNTR,RR LWB Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Central,Virginia
Posts: 3,827
Registry
So, how long did you run it with the oil light "on" and the loud knocking?


.
__________________


Real Rovers have round headlights!
Rent my
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
!
Just a few miles from 4x4 access!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old June 26th, 2015, 09:58 PM
flananuts
Status: Offline
Matthew
LRC Customs #003 D110 Soft Top
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Jersery Shore
Posts: 644
Registry
I would suspect that it is the bypass valve sticking open and causing low oil pressure as a result sticking open. When I rebuilt my oil pump, in addition to replacing the gears, I had to sand down with an emory cloth the valve piston in order for it to move freely inside the front cover/oil pump. Something worth looking at
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old June 27th, 2015, 10:35 AM
minch77's Avatar
minch77
Status: Offline
Minch
1997/Defender 90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Edison, NJ
Posts: 53
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
Check Oil Pick Up Tube Screen...might be plugged with crap.
Where is that located? That sounds like it's worth a look.

Based on other folks' input on this thread I have new plugs and wires coming. The oil pump sounds the most challenging for my driveway workshop.

NOMAR: I drove it about 1.5 miles like that.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old June 27th, 2015, 10:39 AM
javelinadave's Avatar
javelinadave
Status: Online
Dave
1989 110SW 1 of 2,000,000
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 5,429
Where is that located? That sounds like it's worth a look. Inside the oil pan. You will need to drop it.

Based on other folks' input on this thread I have new plugs and wires coming. The oil pump sounds the most challenging for my driveway workshop.

NOMAR: I drove it about 1.5 miles like that. Ouch
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old June 27th, 2015, 11:08 AM
JSBriggs
Status: Offline
.
.
Site Team
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: .
Posts: 12,286
Quote:
Originally Posted by minch77 View Post
Where is that located? That sounds like it's worth a look.

Based on other folks' input on this thread I have new plugs and wires coming. The oil pump sounds the most challenging for my driveway workshop.

NOMAR: I drove it about 1.5 miles like that.
As a general rule with any car, when the oil light goes on, you should shut the engine down immediately as the engine is being starved for oil.

-Jeff
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old June 27th, 2015, 11:33 AM
LuisC's Avatar
LuisC
Status: Offline
Luis Constantin
98 Disvovery 1 LE
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Austin,Texas USA
Posts: 1,744
Registry
Any time you get a warning of eminent failure, shut it down.
I was going 70MPH on the highway when my temp gauge headed for red. I shifted into neutral and killed the engine while still traveling highway speed.
Luckily I was coming up on my exit. I had enough speed to even coast off the service road and into my neighborhood street.
__________________
Black Rhino Lives Matter
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old June 27th, 2015, 11:44 AM
JSBriggs
Status: Offline
.
.
Site Team
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: .
Posts: 12,286
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuisC View Post
Any time you get a warning of eminent failure, shut it down.
I was going 70MPH on the highway when my temp gauge headed for red. I shifted into neutral and killed the engine while still traveling highway speed.
Luckily I was coming up on my exit. I had enough speed to even coast off the service road and into my neighborhood street.
Overheating is a different issue, as in that case you shut off the water pump as well. Shifting into neutral to take the load off is good. Turning your heater on high can also help.

-Jeff
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old June 27th, 2015, 12:03 PM
minch77's Avatar
minch77
Status: Offline
Minch
1997/Defender 90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Edison, NJ
Posts: 53
Registry
Good point but given my situation at rush hour here in suburban NJ there were few options. I picked a shi**y time to take it for a spin because that's Combat Driving time.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old June 27th, 2015, 12:07 PM
javelinadave's Avatar
javelinadave
Status: Online
Dave
1989 110SW 1 of 2,000,000
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 5,429
Dagga tse dagga da. All you can do now is chase down the issues and fix them
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old June 27th, 2015, 12:17 PM
LuisC's Avatar
LuisC
Status: Offline
Luis Constantin
98 Disvovery 1 LE
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Austin,Texas USA
Posts: 1,744
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Overheating is a different issue, as in that case you shut off the water pump as well. Shifting into neutral to take the load off is good. Turning your heater on high can also help. -Jeff
Just an example of any potential failure. I'd do the same if the oil pressure gauge went too low.
__________________
Black Rhino Lives Matter
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old June 27th, 2015, 12:35 PM
down_shift's Avatar
down_shift
Status: Offline
Russell
94' D90 ST & 06' LR3
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 3,816
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuisC View Post
Just an example of any potential failure. I'd do the same if the oil pressure gauge went too low.
Don't lock your steering column and loose the vacuum assisted brakes in the process ...
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old June 27th, 2015, 12:42 PM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Offline
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,267
Registry
gems engines have a different oil pump design which unlike the 95 and older trucks is self priming. I had a disco where the light came on as I drove it home from buying it. I pulled the pan and sprayed the oil pick up screen out
with gum cutter and I never saw the light again.
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Land Rover Shipment and Importation Service
Bespoke Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old June 27th, 2015, 12:46 PM
Departing90
Status: Offline
Sasha
95 D90
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Monica, CA. USA
Posts: 401
The lifters are knocking because they are starved of oil. Not good thing espetially for 1.5 miles. Thats about 5 minutes of probably 2000-3000 rpm driving without oil! You've done some damage for sure. How bad is anyones guess untill you remive the pan etc... and start tye engine again.

Dump the oil in a clean container without spilling any especially when jt starts comming out as your going to run a magnet through the oil to check for metal particles. Often times going by tye color and size of the particles the damage can be traced to particular engine parts.

You will need a new gasket if your old one looks unusable or some silicone when putting the pan back. Remive pan and move to one side. Reach up and into the pan with your hand espetially at the bottom because thats where a large amount of metal shards if any would reside in the sludge there. You can easily feel them uf your. It wearing gloves. Put all sludge in the same oil container for later inspection.

Take pictures of the metal shards and post up for identification.

The oil pickup is easily accessible. Remive the 2 bolts holding it and take it off. Inpeact for clogs abnormality of any kind.

Post up with what you find. If you find a larte amount debris in oil / pickup you will also need to change the filter as that will also prop be contaminated with same. If you find want to be thoroug I would also cut the filter in half and look for metal shards.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old June 27th, 2015, 12:49 PM
LuisC's Avatar
LuisC
Status: Offline
Luis Constantin
98 Disvovery 1 LE
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Austin,Texas USA
Posts: 1,744
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Don't lock your steering column and loose the vacuum assisted brakes in the process ...
Of course not. Just back the key off enough to kill the engine to the accessory position.

There's usually enough vacuum left for one hit to the brakes. After that, everything becomes real hard.
__________________
Black Rhino Lives Matter
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old June 27th, 2015, 05:10 PM
minch77's Avatar
minch77
Status: Offline
Minch
1997/Defender 90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Edison, NJ
Posts: 53
Registry
I surveyed the 90 today and turned it over for a minute. In 15-20 seconds the loudness of the ticking noise subsided and went back to the original subtle ticking noise the engine has had for years. The oil light never went ON. It idled for a minute before turning it off. The noise appears like it's coming from under the valve cover where I have believed the subtle ticking noise has always emanated from.

Q: I cannot feel any vibration that corresponded to the ticking on the valve cover. Should there be a vibration?

Q: Shouldn't the light remain ON if the oil is not circulating?

I am assuming that if the pump is shot-out then it's condition should be the same when the 90 up today. It sounded normal. Could something be sticking or malfunctioning after the engine heats up? Flananuts mentioned that the bypass valve could be sticking open and causing low oil pressure.

Of course the problem is still there; I am looking to get it trailered out for service. Just curious if this changes anyone's diagnosis before I drop the pan and do some inspection work myself.

FYI: The 90 hasn't been driven that long (30 mins) in over 3 or 4 years. I fire it up and have taken it for short runs around the area but I haven't driven it continuously for a long while due to different projects and problems.

Thanks to everyone for taking time to provide input. It's much appreciated.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old June 27th, 2015, 05:25 PM
down_shift's Avatar
down_shift
Status: Offline
Russell
94' D90 ST & 06' LR3
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 3,816
Registry
Others might have a different idea, but I'd remove a qt of oil and replace with ATF. Run it in your driveway or drive around but keep it close. Stop if loud ticking or light comes back on. The ATF is loaded with detergents and will help dissolve and clean out what sounds like buildup of sludge (edit - or varnish flakes per Doug). Put 15-30 minutes on it and change the oil filter (if it feels extra heavy, that is good). Top off with oil and repeat. Then change filter and oil.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
engine, ht

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OBD Fault Codes 97 SW mlorman Defender Technical Discussions 10 January 29th, 2015 08:27 PM
Ticking noise. Oil pump? ini88 Defender Technical Discussions 11 November 25th, 2009 07:12 PM
Ticking noise at idle thug1313 Defender Technical Discussions 11 March 10th, 2005 11:20 AM
Fault codes OBDI & OBDII Art Vigil Misc. Chit-Chat 3 September 27th, 2004 03:43 PM
Stalling problem and fault codes James Defender Technical Discussions 5 July 22nd, 2004 07:29 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:58 AM.


Copyright