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  #21  
Old June 27th, 2015, 05:39 PM
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Sam
NAS 97 D90 SW
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So Im less doom and gloom on this than others. My 4.0 was covered in gunk internally from the previous owner's "maintenance." This engine is also prone to sludging and running dirty. I changed over to high detergent Delo...and within 100 miles I had the same symptoms as you. Then, a shop Seafoamed it in an attempt to clear the gunk as it was breaking up and plugging everything. That just made it worse. So, I've been driving the last couple years and probably 30K miles on frquent oil changes, Marvel Mystery Oil, and Amsoil. I also cleaned out as mich gunk as possible from the head, pickup tube, and inspected the oil pump/area. It still ticks and the oil light comes on, but not constantly. On the advice of this forum, I'll drive it till it dies and then move on to a GM smallblock. But she refuses to die....and I've probably had a gunky engine for 80K miles. But it could be somehting as simple as an oil pickup/pump issue.
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  #22  
Old June 27th, 2015, 05:55 PM
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Bill Adams
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Not being able to hear it, could be a hydraulic lifter that is not pumping up. Once had one spit out the retainer spring and made quite a disturbing noise. No. Real damage tho, just didn't run well on that cylinder.
Serious things like rod or wrist pin knock gets louder with rpm.
Nothing hurts an engine more than long periods of disuse.
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  #23  
Old June 28th, 2015, 05:17 PM
Departing90
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Sasha
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Just saw the clip. Thats not a lifter noise. Sound like a dropped liner.
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  #24  
Old June 28th, 2015, 05:40 PM
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Chris
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Never heard a cam or lifter that loud. Yikes.
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  #25  
Old July 5th, 2015, 01:59 PM
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Oil Pan Removal

I'm using my time off this weekend to take off the oil pan and inspect the oil pick up for sludge as suggested. I removed all the bolts/nuts but that pan is stuck on there good. Any trick to breaking the seal? I don't want to drive a wedge and bend anything but not sure how else to do it. Be advised: I am doing this in a driveway with the front wheels jacked up so I don't have a lot of leverage.
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  #26  
Old July 5th, 2015, 05:34 PM
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Disregard...I got the oil pan off with a little more effort. Now, the screen on the oil pick up was clogged for certain. There were bits of gasket/sealer in there too. I scraped and cleaned the oil pan so there is no more sludge on its' surface. I soaked and shot compressed air through the oil pick up screen and tube until spotless. I ran a magnet in the oil that I drained and along the pan...no metal shavings to speak of.
Is there anything else I should check while I have access to the bottom of the engine? Also, should I order a gasket for this?
I noticed on Roversnorth shows there is a gasket for the oil sump [Model #: RNM110 Engine Oil Sump Gasket] ... but it's clear from this job that only black sealer was used. What do you guys recommend?

Last ones to touch the oil pan was LR Dealership many moons ago. At least it's going to be a lot less leaky when I put it all back together.
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  #27  
Old July 5th, 2015, 05:52 PM
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Sam
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Most of us use Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker and not any of the preformed gaskets. Thats the gasket maker you fought with to get the pan off I believe...less likely to leak than the cork.
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  #28  
Old July 5th, 2015, 06:09 PM
chuckc4
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chuck b
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X2 on Right Stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
Most of us use Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker and not any of the preformed gaskets. Thats the gasket maker you fought with to get the pan off I believe...less likely to leak than the cork.
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  #29  
Old July 26th, 2015, 09:56 AM
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Minch
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Just wanted to follow up on this thread. I refitted the defender with a clean suction screen, clean oil sump, and fresh oil. What a difference! Oil pressure light gone. All codes gone (for now). Sounds great and the ticking is barely noticeable. No more leaky oil sump means no more oil spots on driveway. I'm still cautiously optimistic that the sludge was the only reason for the oil pressure drop. Any more oil pressure issues then it's off to Roverlab to get replaced. We shall see. Thanks to all for the guidance.
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  #30  
Old October 11th, 2016, 03:25 PM
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Follow Up - Ticking is back

The ticking noise came back and recently went from subtle to constant and noticeable---not too loud. It seemed to be noticeable only when at idle but now it corresponds with the increase in RPMs until a certain point. From what I could tell the ticking comes from the passenger side valve cover so I took the cover off. The noise is most noticeable in the front where the #2 spark plug wire goes---could it be the rocker arms, push rods?


I took the rocker assembly off, took the push rods out, cleaned them, oiled everything, and replaced it all and it still ticks like before. From what I could see everything looked OK when I removed it---the push rods rolled straight, the arms "looked" OK, is there something about their condition that I may have overlooked?


One more thing---While the engine was idling I pulled the #2 spark plug wire off and it sounded like the ticking stopped. What do you think about that? Would that rule out the rocker arms, push rods, valve springs, etc..?




I was due to change the plugs so I changed them all and the wires too. Still ticking. I don't think it is an exhaust leak based on what I have seen.
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