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  #21  
Old June 27th, 2015, 05:39 PM
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Sam
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So Im less doom and gloom on this than others. My 4.0 was covered in gunk internally from the previous owner's "maintenance." This engine is also prone to sludging and running dirty. I changed over to high detergent Delo...and within 100 miles I had the same symptoms as you. Then, a shop Seafoamed it in an attempt to clear the gunk as it was breaking up and plugging everything. That just made it worse. So, I've been driving the last couple years and probably 30K miles on frquent oil changes, Marvel Mystery Oil, and Amsoil. I also cleaned out as mich gunk as possible from the head, pickup tube, and inspected the oil pump/area. It still ticks and the oil light comes on, but not constantly. On the advice of this forum, I'll drive it till it dies and then move on to a GM smallblock. But she refuses to die....and I've probably had a gunky engine for 80K miles. But it could be somehting as simple as an oil pickup/pump issue.
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  #22  
Old June 27th, 2015, 05:55 PM
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Bill Adams
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Not being able to hear it, could be a hydraulic lifter that is not pumping up. Once had one spit out the retainer spring and made quite a disturbing noise. No. Real damage tho, just didn't run well on that cylinder.
Serious things like rod or wrist pin knock gets louder with rpm.
Nothing hurts an engine more than long periods of disuse.
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  #23  
Old June 28th, 2015, 05:17 PM
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Just saw the clip. Thats not a lifter noise. Sound like a dropped liner.
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  #24  
Old June 28th, 2015, 05:40 PM
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Chris
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Never heard a cam or lifter that loud. Yikes.
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  #25  
Old July 5th, 2015, 01:59 PM
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Oil Pan Removal

I'm using my time off this weekend to take off the oil pan and inspect the oil pick up for sludge as suggested. I removed all the bolts/nuts but that pan is stuck on there good. Any trick to breaking the seal? I don't want to drive a wedge and bend anything but not sure how else to do it. Be advised: I am doing this in a driveway with the front wheels jacked up so I don't have a lot of leverage.
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  #26  
Old July 5th, 2015, 05:34 PM
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Disregard...I got the oil pan off with a little more effort. Now, the screen on the oil pick up was clogged for certain. There were bits of gasket/sealer in there too. I scraped and cleaned the oil pan so there is no more sludge on its' surface. I soaked and shot compressed air through the oil pick up screen and tube until spotless. I ran a magnet in the oil that I drained and along the pan...no metal shavings to speak of.
Is there anything else I should check while I have access to the bottom of the engine? Also, should I order a gasket for this?
I noticed on Roversnorth shows there is a gasket for the oil sump [Model #: RNM110 Engine Oil Sump Gasket] ... but it's clear from this job that only black sealer was used. What do you guys recommend?

Last ones to touch the oil pan was LR Dealership many moons ago. At least it's going to be a lot less leaky when I put it all back together.
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  #27  
Old July 5th, 2015, 05:52 PM
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Sam
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Most of us use Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker and not any of the preformed gaskets. Thats the gasket maker you fought with to get the pan off I believe...less likely to leak than the cork.
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  #28  
Old July 5th, 2015, 06:09 PM
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X2 on Right Stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
Most of us use Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker and not any of the preformed gaskets. Thats the gasket maker you fought with to get the pan off I believe...less likely to leak than the cork.
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  #29  
Old July 26th, 2015, 09:56 AM
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Just wanted to follow up on this thread. I refitted the defender with a clean suction screen, clean oil sump, and fresh oil. What a difference! Oil pressure light gone. All codes gone (for now). Sounds great and the ticking is barely noticeable. No more leaky oil sump means no more oil spots on driveway. I'm still cautiously optimistic that the sludge was the only reason for the oil pressure drop. Any more oil pressure issues then it's off to Roverlab to get replaced. We shall see. Thanks to all for the guidance.
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  #30  
Old October 11th, 2016, 03:25 PM
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Follow Up - Ticking is back

The ticking noise came back and recently went from subtle to constant and noticeable---not too loud. It seemed to be noticeable only when at idle but now it corresponds with the increase in RPMs until a certain point. From what I could tell the ticking comes from the passenger side valve cover so I took the cover off. The noise is most noticeable in the front where the #2 spark plug wire goes---could it be the rocker arms, push rods?


I took the rocker assembly off, took the push rods out, cleaned them, oiled everything, and replaced it all and it still ticks like before. From what I could see everything looked OK when I removed it---the push rods rolled straight, the arms "looked" OK, is there something about their condition that I may have overlooked?


One more thing---While the engine was idling I pulled the #2 spark plug wire off and it sounded like the ticking stopped. What do you think about that? Would that rule out the rocker arms, push rods, valve springs, etc..?




I was due to change the plugs so I changed them all and the wires too. Still ticking. I don't think it is an exhaust leak based on what I have seen.
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  #31  
Old October 3rd, 2017, 07:13 PM
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Rich MacFarlane
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Any fix or progress?

Quote:
Originally Posted by minch77 View Post
The ticking noise came back and recently went from subtle to constant and noticeable---not too loud. It seemed to be noticeable only when at idle but now it corresponds with the increase in RPMs until a certain point. From what I could tell the ticking comes from the passenger side valve cover so I took the cover off. The noise is most noticeable in the front where the #2 spark plug wire goes---could it be the rocker arms, push rods?


I took the rocker assembly off, took the push rods out, cleaned them, oiled everything, and replaced it all and it still ticks like before. From what I could see everything looked OK when I removed it---the push rods rolled straight, the arms "looked" OK, is there something about their condition that I may have overlooked?


One more thing---While the engine was idling I pulled the #2 spark plug wire off and it sounded like the ticking stopped. What do you think about that? Would that rule out the rocker arms, push rods, valve springs, etc..?




I was due to change the plugs so I changed them all and the wires too. Still ticking. I don't think it is an exhaust leak based on what I have seen.


Minch77,


I know this is an old thread, however I was wondering if there was any progress with your issue? Has this been resolved. Did you mange to fix it? Can you share any additional information? Thank you in advance.
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  #32  
Old October 4th, 2017, 05:43 PM
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Follow Up to this old thread

The ticking noise that was growing louder was ultimately the exhaust headers. They had been slowly loosening from the engine. At first inspection they appeared to be tight so I moved on to the valves as noted. When I dug my way into the bolts again I was surprised at how loose they ALL had been! The tabs (bent wahsers? I dont know the technical term for them) were bent and appeared to holding them in position--but the bolts were still loose. I have read that had they been loose then there would have been all sorts of fluids leaking but there wasnt. It was collectively loose enough to let exhaust escape and after I tightened it down the noise is only faint after a cold start. It remains that way. When I think about it, I have had my 1997 D90 since 99 and I cannot recall ever touching those bolts for any reason...including to see if they were loose! Should have done it sooner but I learned a another hard lesson.
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  #33  
Old October 4th, 2017, 06:14 PM
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That's a fairly common issue. There are Disco bolts that are designed to not back out if you want to upgrade. I have one bolt that likes to back out for whatever reason do I just keep an eye on it.
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  #34  
Old October 4th, 2017, 08:14 PM
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Rich MacFarlane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minch77 View Post
The ticking noise that was growing louder was ultimately the exhaust headers. They had been slowly loosening from the engine. At first inspection they appeared to be tight so I moved on to the valves as noted. When I dug my way into the bolts again I was surprised at how loose they ALL had been! The tabs (bent wahsers? I dont know the technical term for them) were bent and appeared to holding them in position--but the bolts were still loose. I have read that had they been loose then there would have been all sorts of fluids leaking but there wasnt. It was collectively loose enough to let exhaust escape and after I tightened it down the noise is only faint after a cold start. It remains that way. When I think about it, I have had my 1997 D90 since 99 and I cannot recall ever touching those bolts for any reason...including to see if they were loose! Should have done it sooner but I learned a another hard lesson.

Minch77,


Thanks for the reply. I'll be sure to get up under the Defender and check that out. My confusion lays with the fact that this doesn't always happen, and it appears to happen upon warm up (operating temp), but I've experienced it on a cold start as well.
Any ideas about this anomaly?
Granted the sound appears to exist more at the position of idle and disappears under acceleration, but that could be that the sound is ultimately drowned out with all the other road noise our Defenders are known for.
Again, I'm stumped because it isn't consistent, and the only slight sense of consistency appears to be upon operating temperature/warm up.


I'd like to mention I am also a tad confused of the response you provided, you mentioned moving to the valves but moved to the bolts. Were you referring to moving on to the header (exhaust manifold) bolts because you found nothing wrong with the valves (or valve cover bolts)? If you read that there would be fluid leaking, was this in reference to fluid leaking from the exhaust manifold? I can't imagine that being possible as no liquid flows through exhaust manifolds as it is specific to exhaust fumes only. (I'm familiar with engine operation)


If your reference was to tighten the valve cover bolts, then I can understand that there may be noise and/or liquids possibly leaking from that region of the engine. Your clarification is appreciated.


On another note, are there any manufactures that make aftermarket headers for the stock Defender 4.0 V8 engines (specific to LHD versions)?
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