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  #1  
Old December 29th, 2015, 06:43 PM
DrZ123
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Engine Starting Tips - V8

Just got our ROW LHD '84 110. Loving it. I just have a few questions regarding startup:

1. What is the recommended best way to use the choke?

2. Starting it in the cold, what us the best technique between gas, choke, etc to get it started?

3. If it doesn't start but I know the battery is good, what do I check when out and in a bind?

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old December 29th, 2015, 06:46 PM
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what do you have for a carb or does it still have the original twin carbs?
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Old December 29th, 2015, 07:01 PM
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Everything original!
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  #4  
Old December 29th, 2015, 07:08 PM
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got it...sorry no experience with the twin carbs... might think about switching over to an edelbrock single carb with electric choke..
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  #5  
Old December 29th, 2015, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrZ123 View Post
Just got our ROW LHD '84 110. Loving it. I just have a few questions regarding startup:

1. What is the recommended best way to use the choke?

2. Starting it in the cold, what us the best technique between gas, choke, etc to get it started?

3. If it doesn't start but I know the battery is good, what do I check when out and in a bind?

Thanks!
#1....they are finicky, but best to start/try full open first...for a couple of tries - then go to 1/2 open and try some more...should run fine. Then just listen, and you will "feel" when it can go in

#2 - same as #1

#3 - nothing much else other than bad grounds...a good thing to do is take all the grounds off, wire brush all areas they bolt too, all bolts, all washers and all connectors - then reattach. Should be good to go.

Another upgrade, on top of John's good one, is the Edelbrock, but you should be fine if the stombergs are looked after i.e. oiled correctly. Triumph websites have great information on them.
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  #6  
Old December 29th, 2015, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrZ123 View Post
Just got our ROW LHD '84 110. Loving it. I just have a few questions regarding startup:

1. What is the recommended best way to use the choke?

2. Starting it in the cold, what us the best technique between gas, choke, etc to get it started?

3. If it doesn't start but I know the battery is good, what do I check when out and in a bind?

Thanks!
I am working through the same on my '84. I am a bit surprised at how much choke it needs to start. I typically pull it out a healthy amount. Moreso when it' cold out. It has a very narrow sweet spot but it's much better now and the truck runs better hot and cold after topping off the carbs with Marvel Mystery oil. I still have to le it warm up for a few minutes before even attempting to drive off.
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Old December 29th, 2015, 07:27 PM
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What I do with those trucks when cold;

Pull the choke out all the way
Turn key to the run position and listen for fuel pump to slow down, this means carb floats have closed
Pump the accelerator three times all the way down
Then I turn the key to start


Once it fires you will need to push the choke in and find a sweet spot where the truck fast idles for a few and warms up enough to pull away
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  #8  
Old December 29th, 2015, 08:13 PM
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I also seem to have the original twin carbs, but mine is such a strong, consistent cold starter when it's fully choked, that I never intentionally try to start it without full choke when it's cold (nor do I give it any gas). Once it starts, I rev it & gradually unchoke it for 5 or 10 seconds & go about my way. When I forget & don't choke it, it doesn't start if it has set overnite or longer. Hot starts are trickier, & sometimes I have to really give it the gas to start it hot. I have access to zero ethanol gasoline where I am, & that seems to have helped with the hot starting, but that question is really above my pay grade (anyone? - should I bother?).
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Old December 29th, 2015, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightwriter View Post
I am working through the same on my '84. I am a bit surprised at how much choke it needs to start. I typically pull it out a healthy amount. Moreso when it' cold out. It has a very narrow sweet spot but it's much better now and the truck runs better hot and cold after topping off the carbs with Marvel Mystery oil. I still have to le it warm up for a few minutes before even attempting to drive off.
Interesting concept not to drive off immediately, I will have to get used to that. Today after leaving the truck out in 20deg freezing rain for 45 mins it took a but to turn over. After I pulled the choke all the way out and pumped the gas once then it turned and ran like a charm. Definitely worth putting the choke back in close to, or all the way once cruising to get a nice purr.

------ Follow up post added December 29th, 2015 11:04 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy View Post
I also seem to have the original twin carbs, but mine is such a strong, consistent cold starter when it's fully choked, that I never intentionally try to start it without full choke when it's cold (nor do I give it any gas). Once it starts, I rev it & gradually unchoke it for 5 or 10 seconds & go about my way. When I forget & don't choke it, it doesn't start if it has set overnite or longer. Hot starts are trickier, & sometimes I have to really give it the gas to start it hot. I have access to zero ethanol gasoline where I am, & that seems to have helped with the hot starting, but that question is really above my pay grade (anyone? - should I bother?).
When you say fully choked you mean choke out all the way correct?

So you also recommend letting it sit and pushing the choke in gradually once starting to get the engine rolling before pulling away?

------ Follow up post added December 29th, 2015 11:06 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
What I do with those trucks when cold;

Pull the choke out all the way
Turn key to the run position and listen for fuel pump to slow down, this means carb floats have closed
Pump the accelerator three times all the way down
Then I turn the key to start


Once it fires you will need to push the choke in and find a sweet spot where the truck fast idles for a few and warms up enough to pull away
When you say turn to run position, you mean before trying to turn engine?
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  #10  
Old December 29th, 2015, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrZ123 View Post
When you say turn to run position, you mean before trying to turn engine?
Yes you should be able to hear the fuel pump, I let it run for 30-45 seconds before trying to start the truck.

Many of the trucks I deal with have been sitting for weeks @ ports and in a ship and they usually have weak battery's.
I typically only have one shot @ starting the truck without putting jumpers on it which is a pita when the truck you are using to jump it has a car trailer attached etc. I usually have pretty good luck with the V8's. The 2.5 diesels and 19j's not so much.
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  #11  
Old December 29th, 2015, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrZ123 View Post
When you say fully choked you mean choke out all the way correct?

So you also recommend letting it sit and pushing the choke in gradually once starting to get the engine rolling before pulling away?
Yes, out all the way - mine pulls all the way out & then if you twist it clockwise, it stays all the way out on it's own & that's where I have it when I hit the ignition to start it. But, I don't really let it sit there & run on choke - almost immediately, I untwist it & rev the motor while I let it slide back to the unchoked position @ all the way "in" - I probably don't spend more than 5 seconds on the transition from started/fully choked to started/unchoked. If I'm doing anything wrong, it's probably that I'm not letting it warm up in the started/unchoked scenario long enough - if I start having problems, I'll do better with the warmup. If that doesn't work, I'll come back & re-read what UD wrote - so, ty for posting this thread!
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  #12  
Old December 30th, 2015, 12:39 PM
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I follow doug's style.

Turn key to on for 5-10 seconds, pull choke all the way out, give it 2-3 pumps of the gas, then start it. Either it'll turn right over, or I have to give it 1-3 gentle stabs of the gas pedal and it's going.

Leave it on full choke for 3-5 seconds, then partial choke for 30-60 seconds, then let it warm up at no choke for another 1-3 minutes. I'm currently in a garage with a steep ramp at the exit, so I try to let it warm up a little bit before I try to start it from a steep grade after the gate opens.
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  #13  
Old December 30th, 2015, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DPdotCOM View Post
I follow doug's style.

Turn key to on for 5-10 seconds, pull choke all the way out, give it 2-3 pumps of the gas, then start it. Either it'll turn right over, or I have to give it 1-3 gentle stabs of the gas pedal and it's going.

Leave it on full choke for 3-5 seconds, then partial choke for 30-60 seconds, then let it warm up at no choke for another 1-3 minutes. I'm currently in a garage with a steep ramp at the exit, so I try to let it warm up a little bit before I try to start it from a steep grade after the gate opens.
At that point my garage will reek of gas!
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  #14  
Old December 30th, 2015, 01:05 PM
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  #15  
Old December 30th, 2015, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by DrZ123 View Post
At that point my garage will reek of gas!
Such is the life of someone who chooses to drive an iconic antique British car.

It could be worse, you could have chosen a 2.5 natural diesel and likely would fill the entire garage with smoke/soot on startup to the point that finding your way out would be difficult.
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  #16  
Old December 30th, 2015, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DPdotCOM View Post
I follow doug's style.

Turn key to on for 5-10 seconds, pull choke all the way out, give it 2-3 pumps of the gas, then start it

.
Stromberg SU doesnt have an accelerator pump so those 2-3 pumps of the gas aren't doing anything
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Old December 30th, 2015, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf View Post
Stromberg SU doesnt have an accelerator pump so those 2-3 pumps of the gas aren't doing anything
Interesting, thanks. What about giving it gas once we are turning the key to start it? As I posted above, mine never needs it when it's cold & fully choked, but often seems to need gas when I try to start it hot/unchoked.
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  #18  
Old December 30th, 2015, 03:30 PM
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Ethanol wasnt used when your engine was designed so in short provisions could not be made. Unlike an engine with an ECU a carb engine cannot be "tuned" as easily to compensate but the biggest issue by a clear mile apart from performance is the corrosive properties that ethanol has on carbs due to older carb designs and materials used in its manufacture. It will gunk up and corrode brass / bronze jets in short order, eat up gaskets and plastics as used in floats and even brass floats. The path of least resistance is to not let an engine sit for lengthy periods and use seafoam every so often to clean out the fuel system. If youve never used seafoam on an engine with 70K + before the difference is engine performance is profound. Other fuel additives / cleaners for tye most part are snake oil as they add alcohol and other additives to artificially "run" tye engine "better" for the duration of that 1 tank full!

Second viable option that works very well is to install a manual fuel shut off swith before tye carb and run the engine untill it dies so tye carb will be dry and without the ethanol to corrode parts if engine is not to be started for a lengthy period of time. I would say about 2 months. Of cource if one were to let that engine sit for several weeks at a time it will start and run but tye corrosive affects of ethanol are accumulated and will catch up to you. Generally speaking, this affect is slow in progression so tye affects are not noticed untill tye engine runs "badly" or doesn't even start.
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Old December 30th, 2015, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Departing90 View Post
Ethanol wasnt used when your engine was designed so in short provisions could not be made. Unlike an engine with an ECU a carb engine cannot be "tuned" as easily to compensate but the biggest issue by a clear mile apart from performance is the corrosive properties that ethanol has on carbs due to older carb designs and materials used in its manufacture. It will gunk up and corrode brass / bronze jets in short order, eat up gaskets and plastics as used in floats and even brass floats. The path of least resistance is to not let an engine sit for lengthy periods and use seafoam every so often to clean out the fuel system. If youve never used seafoam on an engine with 70K + before the difference is engine performance is profound. Other fuel additives / cleaners for tye most part are snake oil as they add alcohol and other additives to artificially "run" tye engine "better" for the duration of that 1 tank full!

Second viable option that works very well is to install a manual fuel shut off swith before tye carb and run the engine untill it dies so tye carb will be dry and without the ethanol to corrode parts if engine is not to be started for a lengthy period of time. I would say about 2 months. Of cource if one were to let that engine sit for several weeks at a time it will start and run but tye corrosive affects of ethanol are accumulated and will catch up to you. Generally speaking, this affect is slow in progression so tye affects are not noticed untill tye engine runs "badly" or doesn't even start.
Dam, that's just brutal. And here I thought I was just being paranoid. Thanks!
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  #20  
Old December 30th, 2015, 10:26 PM
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Interesting, thanks. What about giving it gas once we are turning the key to start it? As I posted above, mine never needs it when it's cold & fully choked, but often seems to need gas when I try to start it hot/unchoked.
if there is enough vacuum while cranking the engine stepping on the gas will drop the vacuum and open that piston briefly and act like an accelerator pump. I hear you can play with different oil weights in the damper to tune the accelerator shot, but Ive always used atf
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