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  #1  
Old August 29th, 2012, 10:18 PM
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Ken Loy
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Engine Rebuild Options

I took the truck to the shop this week to get a few things worked on. They said that the engine was knocking and they recommended an engine replacement.

I was looking at the Board to get ideas on doing it myself. I'm probably not so into a complete truck overhaul and installing a Tdi. I'll just replace the 3.9L ('94).

Maybe you guys can give me some advice.

I'm not a gearhead, just a good wrencher. Is rebuilding from a new short block feasible for a guy like me? I could do it leisurely in my driveway, or I planned it out right, I could use the auto hobby shop at Ft Myer or Belvoir.

I saw Atlantic British has a rebuilt short block for $5k and one on ebay for $4k. Any other sources I should be looking at? What should I be looking for?

What special tools would I need?

Any other thoughts?
Thanks
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  #2  
Old August 29th, 2012, 10:33 PM
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Can you give more details on the knocking? Anything else going on, overheating etc...

Cheers...
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  #3  
Old August 29th, 2012, 10:38 PM
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Ken Loy
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It's not overheating. It is burning oil, although I haven't watched it closely enough to say how much. A can of sea foam in the oil seemed to quiet it some.

The original engine has about 126k miles on it.
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  #4  
Old August 29th, 2012, 10:41 PM
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There is a broad spectrum of choices you can make.

On one extreme end of the scale, you could drop your oil pan in the drive way and just replace your connecting rod bearings. This would assume that once you opened it up you did not find anything completely destroyed. This is a cheap and fast way back to running - but highly risky and you do not know what else is broken. Plus, the main crank should be worked if a bearing was bad and it knocked for a while. But - if the knock was slight (and this is 'really' just a bearing knock) and you do not drive the truck a lot - you could probably squeak another 10K miles out of the motor (maybe). High risk / low dollars.

I rebuilt by 3.5 in my garage back in 2011. It took a month of slow working and parts ordering and cost me about $2000 +/-. Your price may go up or down depending on teh condition of your donor engine. I started with used donor engine that I rebuilt mostly in the garage before pulling my truck off the road and doing the swap. This option is much more expensive than the first option - but I KNOW the condition of every engine part and I KNOW that everything is clean and in spec in relation to wear. This option does take time. I ahve put over 10K miles on my rebuild and have been very happy with the result.

Between these two options is a junk yard motor. Probably $500 to $1000 for a motor that likely will have 80k+ miles on it. Junk yards are not very close to us in Northern VA so you have to expand your search well outisde the beltway. If you had the right tools and the right shop - you might pull an old motor and install a different motor in a weekend - provided nothing went wrong. With your access to the Ft. Meyer or Belvoir garage space - this might be a good option for you.
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  #5  
Old August 30th, 2012, 12:03 AM
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ken I stripped a 92 range which had a 3.9 with 70,000 miles on it, the engine ran but he fan was missing a blade so it vibrated, when I revved the engine the timing cover broke because of the misbalanced fan, it took the water pump with it, I have a replacement timing cover, I am getting rid of ALL my rover parts as my girl and I are calling it quits and my stuff sits at her parents farm.
about two yrs ago, when Charles was putting together his white d90 I offered him the engine for 500 obo, at that time he (Charles) came across a disco parts truck so he went with that rather than my engine. the engine sits on a rolling frame, unbolted literally ready to be lifted out of the frame rails, if you want a project and build to your taste and liking so later on it can be a drop in there it is, or if you just want to reseal and drop in it will work as well.
if you want it make me an offer, nothing is low ball, I rather get something out of it and put it to good use vrs scraping a good engine because I dont have a place to store it.
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  #6  
Old August 30th, 2012, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlosz View Post
ken I stripped a 92 range which had a 3.9 with 70,000 miles on it...
Thanks for the offer Carlos. I think that I might as well go for something new/rebuilt, though.
I've been tearing up the internet tonight, looking at engine stands, ceramic coating for manifolds, gasket kits... Add in a cooler or two of beers and some gear head friends and this could be done pretty quickly! ha
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  #7  
Old August 30th, 2012, 01:13 AM
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If you have to replace it go for a 300 tdi. Cant beat the milage and Lots of torque.
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  #8  
Old August 30th, 2012, 01:35 AM
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Atlantic British is doing theirs with tophat liners on all cylinders, which should pretty much eliminate the problems associated with the liners. If you are going to spring for a new motor I would seriously consider one of those. Call and ask for Eric ext 231.
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  #9  
Old August 30th, 2012, 05:17 AM
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I'm looking into changing my engine as well. This is what I have found:

- I was told that putting in a 4.0l LR engine was a better choice as it is a better engine. My local mechanic suggested selling me a RR or Disco 4,0 engine for 500$ and rebuilding it for abut 2K$ total. I would buy the parts and he would bill me for his time.

- 4,2l and 4,6l LR engines with low millage can be found at scrap yards off of a salvaged vehicle for relatively cheap. I'm not sure how it would fit, but it seems it could be a drop-in.

- there are many places that sell rebuild LR engines in the USA, just Google them. Some examples are http://www.motorcarsltd.com/land-rov...r-engines.html http://www.rover-engine.com

- there are some UK sources: http://turner-engineering.co.uk http://www.automotivecomp.com

- you can also go diesel for about 6K$ to 10K$ installed, then a 300TDI seems like the best choice,
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  #10  
Old August 30th, 2012, 06:52 AM
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I would just drive it. A little slop in the rods isn't that big a thing. Keep fresh oil in it, maybe go up one viscosity level. Like Dave (Joad) says you can get several tens of thousands more from it.
Keep the money you would spend on a rebuild for your next Rover.
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  #11  
Old August 30th, 2012, 07:46 AM
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If you have a garage it isn't too hard to remove the engine and then rebuild it yourself or take it to a shop to have it re-built. If you ever go to sell it not having matching numbers might matter. If that doesn't matter you can get a donor engine re-built and then swap the engines out in a few days.
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  #12  
Old August 30th, 2012, 07:48 AM
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Still though, it would suck to spend all that $$$ and still have the potential for a slipped liner at any time. These two plus Atlantic British are the only ones that mention the use of flanged liners:

Quote:
Originally Posted by maleger View Post
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  #13  
Old August 30th, 2012, 07:53 AM
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Bill's right - you need to just drive the thing. I suggest at least once a month over to happy hour

But seriously, did you hear the knocking yourself? Is it just perhaps a knock on startup until the oil starts circulating properly? I suspect this is it, and really there is no sense replacing the motor for this - just keep running it.

Even if it was a full time knock I'd consider just keep driving it as-is.
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  #14  
Old August 30th, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Bill and Charles, I agree that it's not a matter of urgency. It runs... well, it will run, and I don't drive it that often. Maybe I will bring it to HH some eve and you guys can see and hear it in person.

Marc-Andre, I saw those last night. They don't have an online price for the 4.0, but it looks like they're about $4k for the long block. I was thinking last night that if I was going to get a short block, I'd still want to replace the cylinder heads, right? So, when you add it up, maybe a long block is a better option. And as for 4.0 vs 3.9, I'd appreciate others' thoughts. Thanks for pointing out the sites.

Mike, Matched numbers aren't all that important to me. It's far from being a show-car.
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  #15  
Old August 30th, 2012, 08:46 AM
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I would just drive it...hell, I drove my last truck back from Camp Lejeune on 7 cylinders b/c I didn't have a lot of choices was getting ready to deploy and knew it would cost the same to get a new engine, replace the whole Disco, or fix the one that was in it.

That being said, I'm starting the slow process of what Dave was talking about-and that opens up options. (I know i need to come get the engine Bill!)...if you're going to rebuild you could always source 4.6 crank/rods/pistons and or some other kind of franken-motor to put in when/if yours actually dies. If you do it at Ft Myer let me know, I'll swoop by and hang out with you and we can harass Milton about the New Orleans Saints.
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  #16  
Old August 30th, 2012, 08:55 AM
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Marc-Andre Leger
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I'm also interested in other's opinions for my Portofino red 1994 D90. I've got close to 20 000Kms so far on my engine since I got it and it's still knocking... but not dead yet ! I'm pretty sure I can get a lot more out of it.
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  #17  
Old August 30th, 2012, 09:30 AM
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I swear these V8's do tend to have a low knock as miles add up. Its not terminal, but watch oil quality and type. I always had low oil pressure in mine unless I ran lighter oil than recommended in winter!
My V8 finally went the overheating route after 155k miles and I was able to pick up another unit with less than half the miles in good condition. Between worn timing belts cams etc it wasn't worth taking it apart to see if it was a slipped liner or head gaskets (again).
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  #18  
Old August 30th, 2012, 09:43 AM
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If you decide to change the engine I would also recommend that you not take the vehicle out of service, that is, fully prepare the replacement engine to drop in. If the truck is currently running, then you'll want to keep it going up until the minute you have the "new" engine standing by ready to go. Pull the old one out, take off the flywheel or flex plate, the exhaust manifolds, the intake manifold, the alternator, AC, starter etc and move them to the replacement. If you do it right it should take only a day to go from old to new. If you have air tools, probably far less...only a matter of hours.
I have found that taking off the oil pan makes it all go much faster if it is an auto box cz the flex plate to torque converter bolts are quite hard to get to otherwise.
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  #19  
Old August 30th, 2012, 09:45 AM
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Did you switch out to a different oil recently or anything? Which type are you running?
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  #20  
Old August 30th, 2012, 10:03 AM
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Did you switch out to a different oil recently or anything? Which type are you running?
Josh, I run synthetic, usually Mobil 1. Admittedly, it sat idle for quite a while (months). And before that, it had knocking that I just ignored. Like the guys have said, it's not urgent/critical. Just a good Fall or Winter project.
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