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  #21  
Old August 30th, 2012, 10:16 AM
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Russell
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Ken, use the longest screw driver you can find and isolate this "knocking" by placing the tip on the engine and your ear on the handle. Move around the heads and around the bottom end from underneath. You will quickly find the source of the problem that will help in the direction of your fix.
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  #22  
Old August 30th, 2012, 10:45 AM
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Gary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MC22958 View Post
If you have a garage it isn't too hard to remove the engine and then rebuild it yourself or take it to a shop to have it re-built. If you ever go to sell it not having matching numbers might matter. If that doesn't matter you can get a donor engine re-built and then swap the engines out in a few days.
Do Rovers have stamped engine numbers that match in some sequence to the VIN of the vehicle itself? I was under the impression that they did not.
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  #23  
Old August 30th, 2012, 10:56 AM
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What weight mobil are you using? knocking could be any number of things. I am in the midst of having a 4.2 rebuilt, its getting expensive. I know it needs rings bearings the crank needs to be polished and maybe new liners. It did have 223k that were relatively trouble free, I will post my numbers as soon as I hear from the machine shop
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  #24  
Old August 30th, 2012, 11:23 AM
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Mike
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Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
What weight mobil are you using? knocking could be any number of things. I am in the midst of having a 4.2 rebuilt, its getting expensive. I know it needs rings bearings the crank needs to be polished and maybe new liners. It did have 223k that were relatively trouble free, I will post my numbers as soon as I hear from the machine shop
What is the 4.2L going in, your D90?

Cheers...
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  #25  
Old August 30th, 2012, 11:43 AM
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fair enough, any other takers on my 3.9, my trucks have 4.6's and I cant keep it as much as i would love to. make an offer nothing is low ball..a spare slow build perhaps....
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  #26  
Old August 30th, 2012, 12:06 PM
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Russell
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Originally Posted by carlosz View Post
fair enough, any other takers on my 3.9, my trucks have 4.6's and I cant keep it as much as i would love to. make an offer nothing is low ball..a spare slow build perhaps....
Carlos,
Our Lemon's team also runs a MGB GT that is in a desperate need for a budget conversion to a MGB GT V8 (it wants to pass the 944s like the rest of us ). Amazing the Rover V8 is 40 lbs lighter than the 4-banger already inside. The extra power is just a bonus. Okay if I pass your info along for consideration? Not many teams fly the Union Jack!
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  #27  
Old August 30th, 2012, 12:15 PM
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Jeff Huff
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Josh, I run synthetic, usually Mobil 1. Admittedly, it sat idle for quite a while (months). And before that, it had knocking that I just ignored. Like the guys have said, it's not urgent/critical. Just a good Fall or Winter project.
Would recommend a change back to some good ole Rotella 15W-40 dino oil and run it for a while. Would also try identifying the exact location of the knock as Russ said
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  #28  
Old August 30th, 2012, 06:16 PM
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Does it knock under load, at idle or all the time?
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  #29  
Old August 30th, 2012, 06:27 PM
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Ken Loy
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It doesn't knock at all, right now. The shop can't get it started...

But, aside from my frustration on that, it knocks all the time, at idle and operating speed. I never did the screwdriver test, and my ear was tuned enough to figure out where the noise was coming from. The mech did say that he found the right exhaust manifold gasket was leaking and that makes sense. That's separate from the knocking sound, i'm sure. The Sea Foam really did noticeably reduce the knocking.

Motorcars LTD doesn't have any 3.9 or 4.0 motors on hand. A rare commodity, it seems.

So, if I get the short block, do I need to/should I also replace the cylinder heads too, or is there something simpler that I should do, like just have the surfaces machined? I'm not sure on what's involved in rebuilding cylinder heads.

This episode is like going to the doctor for a scraped knee and ending up getting heart surgery. In this case the "scraped knee" was trying to install the ignition relocation kit.
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  #30  
Old August 30th, 2012, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loykd View Post
I'm probably not so into a complete truck overhaul and installing a Tdi
Why? Sounds like you are more than 50% of the way there with the full engine swap...
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  #31  
Old August 30th, 2012, 06:36 PM
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If you are going to use your cyl heads then pressure test them, then re-skim them and do a valve job.
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  #32  
Old August 30th, 2012, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loykd View Post
But, aside from my frustration on that, it knocks all the time, at idle and operating speed.
Is it a loud "high pitched" knock or is it a loud "hollow sounding" knock?
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  #33  
Old August 30th, 2012, 06:56 PM
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Ken Loy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Is it a loud "high pitched" knock or is it a loud "hollow sounding" knock?
I ain't got a ear for that, but I'd say it's more hollow sounding, like something is clicking.
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  #34  
Old August 30th, 2012, 07:26 PM
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I got a couple 3.9s in the garage. You can have one if you come fetch it. Free although I will try to sell you stuff while you are here.

Did you clean you oil pick up? Did you check the oil pressure?
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  #35  
Old August 30th, 2012, 09:29 PM
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Drop the oil pan clean the pickup and replace the little gasket between the pickup and the block. Rotella is good oil but it doesn't have enough zinc for these engines. Probably best to us it in conjunction with a zinc additive. Valvoline VR1 has a safe amount of zinc, Amsoil 10w40 has the proper amount of zinc.

Drive the truck, there is really no need to worry about all this stuff. I used to stress over the smallest detail, when that bitch breaks fix it otherwise take care of it during the interim. Buying a used engine is a huge gamble, best to pull the engine you have now and take the entire thing to the local machine shop/engine builder. You may spend more money buy at least you know what you have. Don't go for a scraped knee, go when you have a blood infection or tetanus.

Thousands will likely be spent on the 4.2 I am working on, it is not for me. It was sent to the machine shop with 223176 miles and is completely worn out. It will be interesting to see how it runs when I get the truck put back together.
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  #36  
Old August 30th, 2012, 11:28 PM
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Other than a very slight lifter chatter at start up after sitting, my 4.2 runs great at 190k.
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  #37  
Old September 3rd, 2012, 10:53 PM
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Ken Loy
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If I replaced with a 4.0L, what all would need to be replaced with the engine? Fuel, electrical? Does it fit directly or do I need spacers to match up with the 3.9 install?
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  #38  
Old September 4th, 2012, 06:59 AM
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Mike hippert installed a 4.0 is his 94. You just need the bottom end of the engine and your front cover. That being said im not sure if the v-belt front cover will work on the 4.0, you may need a serpent front cover. I am up 1200 in parts for the 4.2 rebuild. Hope to hear from the machine shop this week, im sure the owner will have over 3k in the rebuild when its done.
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