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  #21  
Old April 4th, 2014, 08:25 AM
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mark kellgren
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the newspaper trick tests the viscous fan clutch, not the water pump. if your pump is bad, coolant would seep out of the bottom weep hole.

when anyone has coolant loss, it needs to be a fire drill to figure out if the loss is external or internal to the block. You're best hope is to get it hot, then let it sit, and see if you are leaking coolant somewhere-anywhere. My recommendation is to go straight to Autozone, get some coolant dye and a blacklight, add the dye to the coolant and run the engine to mix it up, hot enough to open the thermostat. That night in the dark, inspect your engine and hoses thoroughly. The dye is UV and will glow under the blacklight. If you can't' find a leak, you probably are losing it internally. The minerals in coolant, if pulled into the pistons through a block crack or HG leak will mix with your oil. The water burns off, and your oil turns acidic, which begin corroding away your crank bearings (and turbo bearings if you have one...ask me how I know).

I have learned through time that loss of coolant and overheating is never a casual affair unless you stole it or it's a rental. Get on it til it's solved.
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  #22  
Old April 4th, 2014, 09:19 AM
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Here you can see the three small geysers of water spraying from the plastic piece at the top of the heater core... This is the only place I could find leakage. Last time I checked the oil, it didn't seem milky, so I don't think it's internal.

Could the overheat have caused this piece to crack, or is this piece something that fails over time?
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  #23  
Old April 4th, 2014, 09:26 AM
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mark kellgren
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doesn't fail over time. It's metal. So looks like that is your leak, and that is how air is being sucked in to your coolant system as well. That heater will be a pita and a weekend job to swap out, but if you don't address it, you'll be doing a head gasket as well, or worse if you end up with a slipped piston liner from heat damage. air in your system creates hot spots in the block, not good.

If I were you, what I would do is disconnect the two heater hoses and loop them together, and then rebleed the system. that will bypass your cracked heater matrix so you can run. In SC, you won't need your heater for a while. That buys you time to remove your heater assembly and replace your heater matrix. while you are in there, open up that heater hole in the bulkhead. you have a spring job now. good luck.
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  #24  
Old April 4th, 2014, 09:47 AM
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Thanks Overlander (and everyone else) for the info.

I'll loop the hoses together today and hopefully have the 90 ready for the weekend. As far as bleeding the coolant system, what is the best way to do that?
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  #25  
Old April 4th, 2014, 10:09 AM
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mark kellgren
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remove your brass cap on the radiator (you really don't still have that plastic POS do you?) and fill til it comes out there. replace brass cap and then fill expansion to line. run til it's warmed up and thermostat can open up to get rid of that air. recheck coolant and refill to mark.

manual covers it well.
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  #26  
Old April 4th, 2014, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
remove your brass cap on the radiator (you really don't still have that plastic POS do you?)
I'll have to get one of the brass ones... are they available at the parts stores? I've only had my 90 for a little over a year, so it's an ongoing improvement project.

------ Follow up post added April 4th, 2014 12:36 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list...7gVsWBOmpcJGSq

These videos helped me out a lot (as did the forum) when I was having issues with mine. For me it was a bad ground and a bad gauge, no actual overheating. Get a laser temp gun and see if the engine is actually overheating.
Just watched this... thanks for the link! Mine had steam coming from under the hood, so it was definitely hot!
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  #27  
Old April 4th, 2014, 01:24 PM
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mark kellgren
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I think RN or AB sell those brass ones. Mud UK does. and so does EE
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  #28  
Old April 4th, 2014, 06:41 PM
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Chris Davis
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There is a thread on here about brass plugs-- it is a standard thread/part for a water heater or something. Or cheap at venders. My first step is a block test-- check out the napa one, very good deal
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  #29  
Old April 5th, 2014, 08:20 AM
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Tom Rowe
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The radiator plug thread isn't NPT, it's BSPT which you're unlikely to find locally unless you have a McMaster Carr near.
Rovahfarm has the best price.
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  #30  
Old April 5th, 2014, 08:46 AM
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I bypassed the cracked heater core yesterday and bled the air from the cooling system. She ran just fine and I took her on a little cruise around town. I did notice that she was running a little warmer than she used to... maybe because of the new tstat or the fact that my cooling system is 90% water right now.

I've been driving my Corvette for the past month, so I had to get used to driving the thing again.
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