Engine dead, What Now? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 3rd, 2018, 07:44 PM
Taranathicus
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Will Tepolt
1991 Defender 90 200TDI
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Engine dead, What Now?

First off I have a 1991 defender 90 200tdi rhd
Basically the title tells all, on my way to work it seems that the turbo oil return line has gone, and my oil pressure light doesn't work. Heard a ticking for a minute then the engine seized. It seems like the leak came from the turbo oil return. Haven't had a chance to dig in yet, wanted some advice.

As I see it I have a few options

1)bite the bullet and buy a turner long block
2)try and rebuild existing engine(is this a pipe dream)
3)buy a used engine for about 4k it seems and slap it in
4)new cummins 2.8 repower(I think this one is out of my price range)
5)swap to a 300tdi

I know I need to do a post mortem and see how bad it is. I am under the impression that the main bearings might be machinable, but if the bearings for the cam spun its done. So what's my best bet? I love my defender and plan to have it as long as I can fix it.
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  #2  
Old January 3rd, 2018, 07:50 PM
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I can put you in touch with a shop that has a low mileage 200 for less than $4k. Anything you donít use you can sell to offset the price of the new engine.
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  #3  
Old January 3rd, 2018, 08:02 PM
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Bill Adams
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its probably not as bad as you think.
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  #4  
Old January 3rd, 2018, 08:05 PM
Naplm00
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if you have the time and the skill the engine is def rebuild-able even with destroyed cam bearings. if you are paying a shop to do it may as well just buy a long block.

2.8 and 300 require a new trans/linkages/hump and lots of other work. the 300 is a minor power improvement ( not worth it in my opinion)

the 2.8 is still expensive...are you prepared to spend on an engine and trans what you truck is worth or more?


There are other alternatives to Turner for rebuilds (not zombie motors) in the UK




Do a tear down, maybe you can get away with just machining the crank and buying new bearings
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  #5  
Old January 3rd, 2018, 08:06 PM
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One hell of a first post !

Not likely your oil return line failed, its not under pressure and is a simple gravity flow back to the sump. Do you have a huge 6qt oily mess all over the underside of the truck ? If not, how old was your timing belt ?
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  #6  
Old January 3rd, 2018, 08:07 PM
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John B.
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Long block is only $5k plus shipping. No point in buying a $4k used engine when you have all of the ancillaries already.
https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/...ed-c2x24350965

Rebuilding locally will be by far the cheapest. It would very strange if it was not rebuildable.

A Cummins swap will be $15k plus labour but it will be a lot faster!

A 300TDI swap is a fair amount of labour and you need a lot more stuff than just the engine and you end up with the same power and no more reliability.
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  #7  
Old January 3rd, 2018, 08:28 PM
Taranathicus
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Will Tepolt
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The timing belt had less than 5k on it and the engine ran until it died, also all the oil in it was on the ground, seemingly from oil return line because the end that goes into the block is loose at the crimp fitting, if not from there then close by. I'll tear into it better tomorrow, but at the moment, I'm thinking a long block might seem to be the best way to go. But it all depends on how things look I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow. Thanks for your help!
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  #8  
Old January 4th, 2018, 06:55 AM
sonoronos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranathicus View Post
I am under the impression that the main bearings might be machinable, but if the bearings for the cam spun its done.
Hmm..I don't think that's quite right

A spun cam bearing is fixable, main bearings can be replaced. I wasn't aware one could machine main bearings.


As long as your crankshaft journals aren't scored, you could probably get away without a regrind.
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  #9  
Old January 4th, 2018, 10:31 AM
Naplm00
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Yea like Ed said: crank is machineable, bearings come in many sizes, cam bearings are also machineable... Require line-boring equipment that most Subaru and vw shops have.

A rebuild would be the cheapest if you can do most of the labor sans the machining yourself. If you can't swapping a already rebuilt engine may be easier/cheaper

Block should be fine as long as there aren't any holes in it!
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  #10  
Old January 4th, 2018, 10:35 AM
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Offer still stands re intro to a shop with an entire engine with low documented miles. I personally feel this is a better option when you put a value on downtime and factor in the age of your ancillaries.
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  #11  
Old January 11th, 2018, 07:06 PM
Taranathicus
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Will Tepolt
1991 Defender 90 200TDI
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So just an update for anyone interested, I finally tried to turn the crank with a breaker bar, it moved pretty freely, but would jam up. I could hear some metallic noises from inside when it would stop. I want to pull the engine apart and see what there is to see, but I'm in new england and its been a bit cold for motor removal at the moment. I'll post an update in a few months, thanks for all the advice.
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  #12  
Old January 11th, 2018, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranathicus View Post
So just an update for anyone interested, I finally tried to turn the crank with a breaker bar, it moved pretty freely, but would jam up. I could hear some metallic noises from inside when it would stop. I want to pull the engine apart and see what there is to see, but I'm in new england and its been a bit cold for motor removal at the moment. I'll post an update in a few months, thanks for all the advice.
Stop turning it over and tear it down.
If you have interference, you could make things worse.
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