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  #21  
Old April 20th, 2011, 05:49 PM
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John B.
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If you crimp, you must use uninsulated crimps and proper ratcheting crimper.

As mentioned, soldering is fine when done properly. Make sure you clean after the solder to remove flux.
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  #22  
Old April 20th, 2011, 07:41 PM
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Why would you want to use "uninsulated crimps" ( non-insulated crimp connectors)?
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  #23  
Old April 21st, 2011, 07:36 AM
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Tom Rowe
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I use uninsulated then cover with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. It creates a much better seal. I even shy away from the insulated connectors that have the heat shrink on them because of a concern (perhaps unwarranted) of the crimping process damaging the insulation.
Occasionally I'll use an insulated terminal as a field repair, but I always remove it and redo it as above when back home.

You can get good crimps without using a ratcheting type crimper, if it's a quality crimper and it's done correctly. I also use only high temp terminals as they are heavier duty and crimp better without distorting/opening.
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  #24  
Old April 21st, 2011, 08:55 AM
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Yea, it's fine to cover with shrink tube if you are primarily concerned with sealing. But unless you use a heavy wall shrink tube you are not getting the same insulation value on that connection as you would with an insulated connector. I use marine grade insulated connectors and have never had a connection problem, but I would say that the higher quality insulated connectors really do need a ratcheting crimper if you want consistently good connections.
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  #25  
Old May 25th, 2011, 01:16 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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What gauge wire is commonly used for basic auto wiring, when wiring a license place light or a rear work light for example?
I've observed enough to gather some courage to do some basic wiring myself. What connectors and terminals are best suited for a Defender? An assortment of Ancor? Crimp/stripper, test light... What else do I need?
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  #26  
Old May 25th, 2011, 06:41 AM
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Nicholas Orros
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdb View Post
ABC - accurate, brief, concise

Thanks

?


Is that like, WTF? (What The F-ck?)

or

LOL (Lauging Out Loud)


Never heard that one... ABC?

I thought the television network owns ABC? Or is it ABC Liquors that owns it?

Or did you possibly make that up? Your screen-name shed some light on your acronym wizardry!


Good luck!


And thanks to the poster for this wealth of information.
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  #27  
Old May 25th, 2011, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
What gauge wire is commonly used for basic auto wiring, when wiring a license place light or a rear work light for example?
I've observed enough to gather some courage to do some basic wiring myself. What connectors and terminals are best suited for a Defender? An assortment of Ancor? Crimp/stripper, test light... What else do I need?
While the truck comes with some rather small stuff on board, I wouldn't use anything less than 14. You don't need to run out and buy a whole toolbox worth of stuff just to run a few lights. You can get by stripping the wire with a utility knife and crimp the terminals with an el cheapo crimper.
For wire and terminals you should probably just go to the boat store since you aren't buying big quantities. If you were, I'd direct you to genuinedealz.com.
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  #28  
Old May 25th, 2011, 08:35 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Newbie question: so I should get two wires, right? A black 14AWG and a red 14AWG?

Do you ever use a duplex wire like they have on Genuinedealz where both wires are already wrapped together?
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  #29  
Old May 26th, 2011, 02:24 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Lucas 3-way switch

I am installing a RR Lucas 3-way switch. The back of the switch has 3 pins. Do I connect right onto these or is there another 3-pin female that is supposed to go on here?
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  #30  
Old September 15th, 2011, 10:31 PM
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Reading this thread and it's great info but how about taking it one step further: can we collect some more links to places that sell high quality wire and terminals?

To start it off, here is where I've been buying my Ancor parts. You can't help but love the company name, either.

Ancor marine-grade terminals:

http://www.defender.com/category.jsp...&sort=products

Ancor marine-grade battery cable:

http://www.defender.com/category.jsp...9758&id=316483

Ancor crimpers:

http://www.defender.com/category.jsp...9758&id=319689


One thing that I would love to find but haven't been able to is marine-grade primary wire in an assortment of color patterns. I'm looking to match the factory wires (combinations like purple-yellow, orange-white, etc.) but I would like to use good marine-grade stuff. Any ideas here?

------ Follow up post added September 15th, 2011 08:40 PM ------

Here is somebody selling the fancy colored wire. Don't think it's the marine grade that I'm looking for, though.

http://www.britishwiring.com/CAT02_07.PDF

------ Follow up post added September 15th, 2011 08:49 PM ------

Here's a good link with a picture tutorial on different types of crimping:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination
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  #31  
Old September 16th, 2011, 09:17 AM
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I get mostof my supplies from Jamestown;
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...G+Primary+Wire

There are also a few marine supply stores on EBay selling bulk Ancor in various guages and colors
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  #32  
Old September 16th, 2011, 10:08 AM
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Scotchloks suck. I would agree that they are unreliable over time, but they are so damn convenient! I have reduced them to time sensitive emergency repair kind of situations, or short term solutions meant to be replaced with marine grade when time allows.

this is a great thread and great sources. I have been searching for a quality crimper, and thanks to Bill, I've finally found it in the Ancor double crimp.

What's a good quality crimper for non-insulated terminals? I just ordered a pack of terminals from RN that fit the Defender fuse panel, so I can take advantage of some of those blanks, but I don't want to use the crap crimpers I have, as I've had no good luck on non-insulated with those.
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  #33  
Old September 16th, 2011, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
One thing that I would love to find but haven't been able to is marine-grade primary wire in an assortment of color patterns. I'm looking to match the factory wires (combinations like purple-yellow, orange-white, etc.) but I would like to use good marine-grade stuff. Any ideas here?
Marine wire usually does not have a tracer color, and the solid colors are determined by the ABYC guideline as to what circuits they are used for, i.e.: lt blue for oil pressure, tan for water temp, etc.
However, when looking for wiring, stranded and tinned are the watchwords, as the casing material/insulation isn't such a huge factor.
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  #34  
Old September 16th, 2011, 11:40 AM
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Mark,

I just bought one of the Ancor crimpers off of Amazon; I'll post up once I get it with a review.

Please tell me more about the terminals that you got from RN. I need to tie in to an accessory power circuit and the fuse panel is where I was thinking of doing it.
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  #35  
Old September 16th, 2011, 11:51 AM
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I second adhesive lined heat shrink, especially heavy wall 4x shrink

I used it everywhere when rewiring and it will keep any and all moisture out of your splices. Awesome stuff.
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  #36  
Old September 16th, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Tom Rowe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Here is somebody selling the fancy colored wire. Don't think it's the marine grade that I'm looking for, though.

http://www.britishwiring.com/CAT02_07.PDF
Personally, for replacement wiring I'd rather have the trace wires, if I had to choose between solid color marine and traced non-marine.

I haven't seen anything that's convinced me the extra expense of the tinned wire is worth it for automotive use. If all wire connectors are crimped correctly and well sealed from the elements I've not found any corrosion in mechanical connections that are even decades old and after being in the harshest road salt environments.
Which isn't to say people shouldn't use it, just that I don't think there's a need to worry about it if you choose not to.
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Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

62 88 Regular
67 109 6cyl NADA x2
74 Lightweight - The Antichrist
95 DI 5-speed
95 D90 5-speed
97 D1 Automatic
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  #37  
Old September 16th, 2011, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
I second adhesive lined heat shrink, especially heavy wall 4x shrink

I used it everywhere when rewiring and it will keep any and all moisture out of your splices. Awesome stuff.
Where do you buy it?
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  #38  
Old September 16th, 2011, 12:35 PM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Mark,

Please tell me more about the terminals that you got from RN. I need to tie in to an accessory power circuit and the fuse panel is where I was thinking of doing it.
The RN part no is PLI552. My experiments have proven that no standard US sourced non-insulated female connectors work in the Defender fuse panel; they are special sized somehow. I haven't put these in, but they are specific LR part no's for the fuse panel. They are $0.95ea.
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  #39  
Old September 16th, 2011, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Where do you buy it?
waytekwire. It is very expensive, but very worth it!

http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...22%20ID%204:1/

(keep in mind, it is still about 10x cheaper than buying cheap crap from Home Repo!)
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  #40  
Old September 22nd, 2011, 11:26 PM
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My new Ancor crimper arrived today, along with an Ancor wire stripper. Both tools are very well-made, a big upgrade from the Home Depot bullshit that I was using before. Looking forward to putting them to use when I install the APRS unit in the truck tomorrow.
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